powder coat trailer

A galvanized trailer is ALREADY meant to ward off corrosion, which it does very well. The part you need to look into is how to properly paint a galvanized trailer and whether or not the "prep" process will negate some/all of it's corrosion protection.

However, look at what I said in post #6 about aluminum.
ok i look . thank you
 
OK, so then that is a Shoreland'r trailer and the "painted" trailer that is offered through Shoreland'r already has a powder coat finish on it - sort of a roughend-up Line-X kind of feel to it. But it is powder coated. HOWEVER, on the inside, it will still be bare steel. There's no way around that with a painted/powder coated trailer. So, if you're going to be in salt water (and, really, even in fresh), the galvanized trailer will last MUCH longer. You could also have your dealer get an aluminum I-beam which looks nicer than galv and offers the same protection... less expensive, too.
well. i just realized i picked the galvanize trailer instead of the painted one. lol. there must of been a reason why. i will check with my boat guy and find out and change it. what a dumb dumb i am. i know i picked galvanized for a reason. i post back when u get an answer. thank you
 
So if the trailer is galvanized already, then launch the boat and take to to get painted. Not a big deal. Or better yet have it rhino lined the color you want. If the bed liner material is put on hot, you wouldn't need to sand the surface.

You do know that any work done like this will negate any warranty the trailer will have. Might talk to the trailer manufacturer and see what they can offer.
 
No worries - and I'm certain you're not a dumb dumb! :)

To go with the nicer, aluminum trailer, you'll go to the aftermarket for this one. I'm sure your dealer has sources for that, though.
 
oh
OK, so then that is a Shoreland'r trailer and the "painted" trailer that is offered through Shoreland'r already has a powder coat finish on it - sort of a roughend-up Line-X kind of feel to it. But it is powder coated. HOWEVER, on the inside, it will still be bare steel. There's no way around that with a painted/powder coated trailer. So, if you're going to be in salt water (and, really, even in fresh), the galvanized trailer will last MUCH longer. You could also have your dealer get an aluminum I-beam which looks nicer than galv and offers the same protection... less expensive, too.
i remember now. ok. the painted shorelander has a matt black and a linex spray type texture look. thats why i was gonna custom coat it. im gonna get the painted factory one. it seems the best way to go. thank you for your help. i wont have boat til spring and im sure i will be posting. hahha
 
So if the trailer is galvanized already, then launch the boat and take to to get painted. Not a big deal. Or better yet have it rhino lined the color you want. If the bed liner material is put on hot, you wouldn't need to sand the surface.

You do know that any work done like this will negate any warranty the trailer will have. Might talk to the trailer manufacturer and see what they can offer.
 
oh yah warraanty. ok. i will get the painted trailer then than comes with the boat and forget the custom paint job. thank you
 
I just saw your other post about how you boat in salt water. Do not get the painted trailer (see my post #6 again). You'll be wasting your money.
 
I just saw your other post about how you boat in salt water. Do not get the painted trailer (see my post #6 again). You'll be wasting your money.
well i had a painted trailer. i dont keep boats long maybe four years max. i salt terminate everythime i launch and load. my scarab painted trailer held up with just some mild flake around the wheel well.
 
It's going to rust from the inside out. Guaranteed. It'll make it easier to resell with a galvanized trailer, especially knowing it came from salt. But, your boat your call of course.
 
It's going to rust from the inside out. Guaranteed. It'll make it easier to resell with a galvanized trailer, especially knowing it came from salt. But, your boat your call of course.
yes i know. so did the other trailer. but i dont keep boats and trailers for more than four to five years and i get a new boat and trailer and i dont private sell. i let the dealer deal with the rust. lol . i do have it completely serviced twice a year to ensure safety. i have until speing so who knows i might think anout it and change my mind. lol thank you for all your advice. i will keep it in my notebook. happy labor day weekend!
 
A buddy of mine has a trailer boat in Nova Scotia and runs it in the ocean all the time. His trailer is galvanized, but his routine has been to almost always to take the boat to a local fresh water lake launch ramp on the way home and back the trailer in the lake. He runs the engine for a few minutes to flush the salt from the engine and at the same time the trailer is getting a bit of a fresh water deep flushing as well, including the wheels, brakes and hubs. It works well for him and takes about as much time as doing a full spray down and flushing at home.
 
A buddy of mine has a trailer boat in Nova Scotia and runs it in the ocean all the time. His trailer is galvanized, but his routine has been to almost always to take the boat to a local fresh water lake launch ramp on the way home and back the trailer in the lake. He runs the engine for a few minutes to flush the salt from the engine and at the same time the trailer is getting a bit of a fresh water deep flushing as well, including the wheels, brakes and hubs. It works well for him and takes about as much time as doing a full spray down and flushing at home.

Some guys have all the luck. That would be awesome. The guy we got the 300 from used to leave via the Columbia river (fresh) and do the 30 miles to the pacific. Do all of his running around then back up the 30 miles in the fresh. Now that is a great flush system.
 
his routine has been to almost always to take the boat to a local fresh water lake launch ramp on the way home and back the trailer in the lake
There's one problem with this approach. The trailer was dunked into salt to launch and then sat while the guys were out on the water. If the trailer wasnt rinsed at completion of launch, I am not sure how much good it does to dunk in fresh water vs simply taking directly home and rinsing there with salt away. Its good for the boat though. Believe me, I have thought and thought about how to get around this problem and the best way is to sling in at a local marina at $125/launch is Seattle area. Or, maybe a second best, install flush hoses on trailer and launch at a ramp with Garden hose bib. Or, where i live, Launch in fresh water lake Washington and go through the Locks to Puget Sound and back same way. Down side here is 1) the knuckleheads at the Lake Washington boat ramps on nice days (launch at 0500 to avoid them and ensure decent parking) and 2) the 2.5 hr minimum add to get to and through the locks each way (Again, second set of Knuckleheads but these you cant avoid!). Ugghh. Bottom line, no matter what you do, the bearings and brakes will take a huge beating in salt and need maintenance twice to three times as often as the trailer frame. I get the wanting a nice looking trailer. I have sanded and painted them myself to get the look I wanted but as noted above, unless is an I-beam, like the one I did, no way to protect inside from corrosion. Moving on every 4 years or so is one way to eliminate the maintenance need.
 
There's one problem with this approach. The trailer was dunked into salt to launch and then sat while the guys were out on the water. If the trailer wasnt rinsed at completion of launch, I am not sure how much good it does to dunk in fresh water vs simply taking directly home and rinsing there with salt away. Its good for the boat though. Believe me, I have thought and thought about how to get around this problem and the best way is to sling in at a local marina at $125/launch is Seattle area. Or, maybe a second best, install flush hoses on trailer and launch at a ramp with Garden hose bib. Or, where i live, Launch in fresh water lake Washington and go through the Locks to Puget Sound and back same way. Down side here is 1) the knuckleheads at the Lake Washington boat ramps on nice days (launch at 0500 to avoid them and ensure decent parking) and 2) the 2.5 hr minimum add to get to and through the locks each way (Again, second set of Knuckleheads but these you cant avoid!). Ugghh. Bottom line, no matter what you do, the bearings and brakes will take a huge beating in salt and need maintenance twice to three times as often as the trailer frame. I get the wanting a nice looking trailer. I have sanded and painted them myself to get the look I wanted but as noted above, unless is an I-beam, like the one I did, no way to protect inside from corrosion. Moving on every 4 years or so is one way to eliminate the maintenance need.
He does it because the fresh water goes all through the same places as the salt water did. Inside the wheels/brakes, inside the frame rails, rollers. Everywhere. And soaks for a bit to re-dissolve any salt that dried. Then it all drains away when he pulls the trailer out. Much more than you can access with a pressure washer from the outside.
I get the issue with busy boat ramps. He isn't able to do it 100% of the time. But often the time waiting at the ramp is still less than the time it would take to do a complete flush and deep cleaning at home.
 

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