Porter Cable v Chicago

N

Nehalennia II

New Member
Oct 6, 2006
1,200
Marysville, WA
Boat Info
sold '99 230OV
Engines
5.7 EFI w/Alpha one
Ok, time to get a new polisher and found
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623
92623.gif

anyone try one of these? $49.99 v PC is closer to $120.00
 
Todd...I have that buffer. I found it on sale at the local store for 29.99...last year. Mine is a rotary buffer, not a random orbit...but it works extremely well. I have read all of the threads about the Porter Cable, and I am sure they are awesome. But, my boat sits in the water year around and I wax from the water line up...and did want to risk dropping a "high dollar" buffer in the drink. I also purchased Meguiars buffing and polishing pads at a local auto part store, which velcro on and off.
 
Todd.............the Porter Cable 7424 is an Orbital Polisher whereas that polisher you are showing is a rotary unit. If you are really into polishing your boat, you probably should have both. The rotary is good for compounding large areas quickly and effeciently especially if you have oxidized or dull gel coat. The Orbital is primarily for gel coat that is in good shape and just needs a bit of polishing or waxing.

As far as the quality of that unit goes, as long as you aren't doing a lot of work with it, it's probably fine.
 
I have both. I use the Chicago rotary buffer for taking care of oxidation and the Porter Cable R/O for applying wax. If you have heavy oxidation a random orbit machine will not do the job. The R/O is ideal for applying and removing wax.

Being a pack rat, I have so many detailing tools in the garage that many times, I'm not sure what one to use. I also have many many half full bottles of various waxes and polishes and "snake oil" as I tend to buy anything that looks like it will work better than the last "stuff" I bought. I am a salesman's dream! If it sounds too good to be true, I'll buy it!! :smt021
 
I have the PC and a regular non random orbit. Only use the PC. If I had to use it on the water, I would try to rig up some sort of saftey chain tied to a bow rail or somewhere else as I also wouldn't want to see $110 go to waste..

Aside: last time I used the PC to apply the wax, I noticed that it doesn't really spin as much as I would expect when it is on the boat surface. Spins much more when not touching anything. Looks like it is doing more 'pushing' onto the boat surface than 'orbiting'. Is this normal?
 
gerryb said:
Aside: last time I used the PC to apply the wax, I noticed that it doesn't really spin as much as I would expect when it is on the boat surface. Spins much more when not touching anything. Looks like it is doing more 'pushing' onto the boat surface than 'orbiting'. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Yes....that's what you would call "normal".
 
I used a conventional (plug-in) Craftsman 8" random orbital to buff mine out this year. I also keep a 6" cordless RO Craftsman on board for touchups during the season. The battery lasts around 45 minutes if you are rubbing too hard, and that's about as long as I want to play anyway! The carger puts a full charge in in an hour, so I just plug it back in when I'm back at the dock and it's ready for the next time.

Bill

PS: either one can be had for around $40 on sale. :thumbsup:
 
I just bought that Chicago buffer from Harbor Freight on sale for $29.99.....it worked fine....can't speak to it's durability yet.
 
Dumb question: My bow area is not smooth, what with the anti-skid surface. How do you make that shiney, or do you not bother?
 
I can't speak for everyone else, but I leave mine alone after cleaning. If I was to wax it, I always thought it would at least partially defeat the purpose of having non-skid in the first place. I do polish the smooth areas around the edges and down the middle, though.

Bill
 
Todd, like Impulse I own both. The orbital is not for the faint of heart; use it to remove oxidation and light scratching. I am on my second one; the trigger failed in the first one, but harbor freight replaced it with no questions asked. If you have oxidation, you will need wool cutting pads and a good oxidation remover. I like meguiars. Once you get the gel coat cleaned (it really will shine as new) then use a high quality polish, then wax. I polish and wax with the porter cable. Now that my gel is clean I can do the entire 420 above the rub rail in under two hours with the porter cable.
I spent a really hard two days trying to clean gel coat with the Porter Cable. Wrong tool for the job. The Chicago orbital took off the oxidation and the light scratches, and set the conditions to polish and wax nice clean smooth gel coat.
If the 260 you are considereing has oxidation, get the rotary and back it up with the Porter Cable. You will not regret it. If you go this route start a new thread and I will share my rotary polisher lessons learned--all buildling on what I got from fwebster.

regards
Skip
 
While I haven't yet put either one of these tools to 'glass yet, they have distinctly different applications on painted surfaces and if you're not carful, a rotary can get you in over your head quickly (as can a random orbital...don't ask me how I know...my apologies yet again to the gods of German automobiles...).

The PC 7424 will outlast the Chicago unit I'm certain, and a wet wool pad on a PC can do quite a bit of work for you. Remember- it is the stuff you put on it and the amount of friction generated that does all the 'hard work'. Right product + right applicator + right tool= best results.

I have a serious OCD issue WRT cars and polish products (I'm a Zaino disciple)...interested to learn what y'all use and any durability tests...
 
Like most others in this thread, I too have both a rotary for oxidation and the PC for polishing/waxing.

Previously, I had gone through two Sears RO buffers in 3 years--they just don't hold up. Finally purchased the Porter Cable--something I should have done in the first place. It's a quality machine that's also good for detailing your cars (with the appropriate pads).

Had to learn the hard way--you get what you pay for!

For the non-skid areas, I use a product (Mary Kote) that's made especially for this application. There are other products at your local supply store.

A couple of times each year, I've noticed tiny black spots on the gelcoat that's hard to remove by normal buffing/polishing even with the power tools. Turns out those spots are a type of fungus. Made up a solution of water, TSP (tri-sodium phosphate), and household bleach. Sprayed it on with a garden chemical sprayer and they washed off with a fresh water hose.
 
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