Porter Cable 7424

CJ Martin

Member
Oct 4, 2006
762
Great Mills, MD
Boat Info
2002 320DA
Engines
350MAG Horizons / V-drives
OK, after nearly killing myself with my crappy little automotive-type buffer over the last couple of days, I realize it's time to upgrade. The little buffer was barely enough for the 260, don't know what I was thinking this year ater moving up to the 320.

Best I can remember from SRO, the Porter Cable 7424 was highly recommended. Is that still true? Coastal Tools has one for $109, is that a good price? What other pads should I get?

Any thoughts/advice welcomed.

-CJ
 
That's a good price! I apid $124 but mine came with the 6" hook and loop kit (Hooka nd loop plate and different balance weights).

Without the 6' kit, you can only use P/Cs affixed foam pads without Hook and loop.
 
Chris,
I bought the 7424 with the 6" pad, counterweight, and several different types of foam pads for light cutting (an oxymoron with a Random Orbital..removing oxidation requires rotary power)
the Porter Cable is absolutely outstanding for applying and removing cleaners, polishes, and waxes. A buddy helping me winterize got the entire foredeck of the 420 done in about an hour. I know the 320 has no serious oxidation, ( I think the previous owner was wrapped a little tightly as far as maintenance goes) so I will spare you the horror stories of 420DA oxidation removal, for which the Porter Cable is simply the wrong tool.
120 days until I re-commission, and Kristyn, the boys and I will make Solomons a priority trip for April.
Skip
 
Skip,
After watching me struggle this year, I am pretty sure Santa (Shell) is going to hook me up this Christmas. :grin: I did my part, sending her the link to Coastal and telling her what pads I needed.

Going down to the the boatyard later today to check on our baby - shrink should have gone on Tuesday. Also dropping off the front three Isenglass panels to the canvas guy for upgrading to Stratoglass. :thumbsup:

We will be back in the water on the third week on March, can't wait!

-CJ
 
I have read with great interest postings about the Porter Cable 7424, and based upon all I've read, I intend to buy one.
The confusing part, is people have mentioned some accessories, but were not quite specific enough. :huh: Which pads, which base, and any other pertinent info would be greatly appreciated...
Please let me know exactly what to buy with the machine, so that I can assemble the right kit the first time, and pay shipping only once. Thanks... :thumbsup:
 
Sea Ray 300 said:
I have read with great interest postings about the Porter Cable 7424, and based upon all I've read, I intend to buy one.
The confusing part, is people have mentioned some accessories, but were not quite specific enough. :huh: Which pads, which base, and any other pertinent info would be greatly appreciated...
Please let me know exactly what to buy with the machine, so that I can assemble the right kit the first time, and pay shipping only once. Thanks... :thumbsup:

I bought mine from Coastal Tool two years ago. They still have one of the lowest prices plus they carry everything else you need as well. Here are two links that cover it all.

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/...er.htm?L+coastest+fdqh9254ff85b385+1164293025

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/...ds.htm?L+coastest+fdqh9254ff85b385+1164293106



The places I listed below have the polishers and pads as well as a lot of "how to" information. You may want to look at their "how to" stuff before making your decisions no matter who you buy from. What I bought was the 6 inch backing pad and I have three textures of Lake Country foam polishing pads as well as a wool pad. Each type of foam pad has a specific use which you will be able to see on the two sites below. I have one for compounding, one for polishing, and one for applying wax. The wool pad I use for deep compounding. If I can be of any further help, let me know.


http://www.autogeek.net/po.html

http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
 
Thanks Dave, I'll check it out, and get back to you if I'm still "confused" :smt017
 
We purchased the Porter Cable 7424 from Lowes last April for $109. We used Collinite Wax on our 330 last year and it took a good half day to do the entire boat, waterline to radar arch. This thing is awesome for applying wax though it's not intended to use for compounding. I used it on the cars recently too and it worked great.
 
I paid over $120 for my 7424 so $109 is a great deal. Go to properboatcare.com for advice and accessories. They have a "kit" of stuff for the 7424, as I recall.

I bought the 7424 for maintaining the like-new finish of my 270 SLX and a friend bought a high speed polisher for oxidized / scratched finish refurbishing.

Nice choice.

Dennis
 
I too purchased the PC 7424. It's a great machine! Small enough to get in tight places, and does a great job. It's a lot smaller than the pictures make it look online. You might be surprised when you take delivery of it, I was.

Now if I can just get it back from my neighbors... they ALL borrow it!
 
Thread revival time! :smt038

A big thank you to everyone for the discussion regarding the 7424. I just ordered one from Coastal Tools with the disc kit and several pads. The thought of wax on wax off this year by hand was just too daunting.

Think I will try it on one of our vehicles to get a technique down first. Anyone have any tips for someone finally graduating to machine polishing? (about 10 years too late)

Also, found this site that may be helpful.
http://properboatcare.stores.yahoo.net/
 
Jim,
You will burn up the Porter Cable before you damage your gelcoat with it, unless you slam the PC off the deck a few times. Gelcoat damage derives from improper use of heavy duty industrial polishers, cutting pads, and oxidation removing compounds. I know, because I burned up a Chicago Tools rotary polisher cleaning up the badly neglected gelcoat on my 420 when I bought her.
Use a soft foam pad to apply a small amount of product, let dry, the buff with a soft buffing pad. I can do my entire ford Expedition with the PC in 45 minutes. 420DA takes a little longer.....

Skip
 
Thanks Skip.

Any tips on how to reach the entire boat hull while it is in the slip with the polisher?

Technically, I am “Above the Bridge†but if all goes well, you might be blinded by a devastatingly intense shinny blue, too bright to look at sometime this summer. :cool:
 
When using your polisher, do you apply the product(was or polish) to the pad and then work into the boat, or apply the product to the boat (at least on the foredeck) and then work it with the buffer? After applied, do you remove the was/polish by hand or with the polisher? I am trying to find out what works well for others....thanks for the input.
 
Bottom Line said:
When using your polisher, do you apply the product(was or polish) to the pad and then work into the boat, or apply the product to the boat (at least on the foredeck) and then work it with the buffer? After applied, do you remove the was/polish by hand or with the polisher? I am trying to find out what works well for others....thanks for the input.

Apply all polish or wax sparingly to the pad. I put small "dots" of polish/wax on the pad then put the buffer and pad on the gelcoat and before turning on the polisher I move it back and forth a few times to distribute the polish/wax on the pad. Then I turn the polisher on and start buffing. Work in an area that's about three by three before repeating the application of more polish on the next area. I go back and forth as well as up and down on all these areas several times if I am using polish. With wax, you can just go back and forth once or twice since all you are trying to do is protect the shiny gel coat. You should not need a lot of polish or wax so don't overload your pad. My goal is to get it as thin as possible whether it's wax or polish. It takes a bit of practice to learn how to do this.

I always remove everything by hand with either a terry cloth towel or a micro fiber towel. It comes off easily and quickly.
 
Put the polish on the clean pad. Place the polishing pad on the boat then turn the machine on. You can't mess it up. To remove the haze get a clean pad and go to it.

Nothing could be easier when polishing your boat.
 
Bottom Line said:
When using your polisher, do you apply the product(was or polish) to the pad and then work into the boat, or apply the product to the boat (at least on the foredeck) and then work it with the buffer? After applied, do you remove the was/polish by hand or with the polisher? I am trying to find out what works well for others....thanks for the input.

I am curious also as to how best to use it. I did purchase one, with applicator pads, but should I also have purchased buffing pads? :huh:
 
Sea Ray 300 said:
I am curious also as to how best to use it. I did purchase one, with applicator pads, but should I also have purchased buffing pads? :huh:

The pads are designed to perform specific functions and as such there are different pads for polishing and different pads for applying wax. Take a look at this web site and I think you will get a better idea of the differences. http://properautocare.com/hi612infopaa.html

And I also suggest you download this PDF as well since it will answer a lot of questions on how to use your polisher and the right pads to use with it. (It also covers circular polishers as well as the PC Orbital). It's written for cars but most of the things will apply to polishing and waxing your boats gel coat. http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/classic-motoring/Clss-PolshGde2.pdf
 
Per this forum I purchased a Porter Cable a couple of weeks ago from one of the companies mentioned here at CSR. Spent yesterday hand washing from rubrail down, light wet sanding followed by an application of Star Bright Polishing Compound using the Porter Cable. Cannnot say how pleased I am with this tool. Next weekend a coat of Star Bright Teflon Polish and hull will be good for the season. 1992 hull shines like a 2007 now. Next topsides. 30 days till splash, but no one around here is counting
 

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