Polycarbonate windows

They will not lay flat.
QT are talking about the 2 forward corner panels on the FB? Mine are Makrolon (Crazed terribly) but I can store them flat. Heck my forward center is also Makrolon and it was crazed so bad I put in a piece of 40ga vinyl in it's place just to finish the season. Also Makrolon comes with different coatings. Mine is Makrolon AR which states right on there site that it's not for sharp bends. I also know that washing them on a hot day will also cause the crazing even on the flat panels. i learned from experience. The uncoated version would work but it's not scratch resistant.
I'm probably redoing the enclosure this spring and might be going with O'Sullivan, O'Sea 40 and 60 or 80 gauge. The 60 or 80 ga. is for the bends so to give a close to non-wrinkled look.
 
I'm on my 2nd set of Makrolon panels . First set lasted about 4 years . Installer did the right thing on the 2nd set. I never take them down. the flat sections and the rounded both started to craze. obviously the rounded ones were much worse.

Rob
 
On my 330DA I am due to replace the forward isinglass screens and have bought them from GLBT (the OEM supplier and they fit perfectly). They are three panels. Side two curve around, but the centre is flat and square. I am going to try an experiment and use the sunbrella "frame" and zippers for the old centre piece and make up a thin Lexan version myself using the old pieces. Never done it before and not sure how it will be done yet since it can't be stitched. If its a bag of crap, I have the new one anyway.

I normally take that panel down when running unless its cold or raining so it will get a lot of in and out use. Not sure how it will last or if it will craze in that usage. But I am hoping the centre visibility will be better than looking through the isinglass. I wish I had taken them off the boat last fall so I could do it over the winter, but I wanted to leave the old panels up for winter under the shrink wrap.

(Side note. Unlike last time, I am going to keep the old panels and not toss them. I will use them over winter rather than leaving the new ones in. That way if the shrink wrap rubs or anything else happens, it will be on the old ones.)
 
6 years on mine. On the flat pieces also.
 

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I just installed Strataglass 40 gauge myself one the bridge. I am questioning that after doing more research. Strataglass can only be cleaned with with one product to be safe according to there web site. When I got the panel all done I used Plexus to clean them off because I thought I read or was told that is the stuff to use. Then I went I Strataglass web site and it Said only Irma Products and stated how Plexus and others would hase this the marital.
Also on my last panel I just got done. It was cold out when I went to knock the holes in for the dot fastener. The marital shattered around two of the holes I did. Did not ruin the panel but shows how fragile this stuff is cold even when it's new, were most vinly would have not done this. You can't even let suntan lotion touch this stuff. If I had to do it all over I would have went with O Sea or Regalite I think.
 
I just want to show what I have learned. It would be nice not to have to worry if the cleaner I'm using is going to ruin my hard work. If I had to do it again O'sea would be a better choice and it is little cheaper.
Something To remember. On those hot day were you want to stripe the curtians off the bridge, you need to store Strataglass flat. A kink or creess could be permanent.

This is a pretty good guide help make a choice of what material to use.

Link to Sailrite's guide: https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Window-Material-Buying-Guide.pdf




From Strataglass website


NEVER:


  • Use Windex, Rain-X, Pledge, Plexus, Simple Green, Orpine or any other harsh cleaner to clean Strataglass products. This will void the warranty.
  • Use a car wax or any kind of wash and wax to protect Strataglass products. This will void the warranty.
  • Use cleaners, polishes, scratch removers, or any products intended for commercial grade vinyl or plastic. This may damage the Strataglass and void the warranty.


From O'sea website


Don’t Let Poor Quality Sink Your Ship
O’Sea clear, smoke and green flexible window glass is optically clear, durable, and made start-to-finish in the USA.

And did we mention our O’Sea press polished sheets are sunscreen, bug spray, and jet fuel resistant?


easytoclean.png

Easy to Clean

Say Goodbye to Special Cleaners

uv.png

UV Resistant

No “Yellowing” Here

optic.jpg

Optically Clear

Clear & Distortion Free



scratch.jpg

Scratch Resistant

O’sea Resists Scratching with a Special Coatings

sunscreen.jpg

Chemical Resistant

Bug Spray, Sun Screen & Jet Fuel Don’t Stand a Chance with O’sea’s Special Coating

longlasting.png

Long Lasting

All This Adds Up to Years of Trouble Free Boat Windows
 
Not a big EZ2CY fan. I was on the bridge of a friends boat several years ago having a beer and greenhead landed on the EZ2CY next to me. I casually lightly slapped at it with the back of my hand and the entire panel cracked. We were both astonished. It cost 2k for one 4ft X 5ft panel made at MaDougals in Falmouth. He argued that a 4 year old panel should not have failed like that to no avail. FWIW he left the boat open to the weather all winter. He didn't want the shrink wrap to scratch the EZ2CY plus he said he was told it was safe to do and the cold and UV exposure would have no affect on the material.
 
If you can source EZ2CY that is the way to go. Had them 5 years on my 420DA and they were still new when i sold the boat. However, i never took them down.
 
Makrolon has a new polycarbonate product that is made to bend and has a 5 year warranty.

It is called "Marine 5" or "M 5".

It is pricey but you could use the old AR2 Makrolon for flat panels (cheaper...relative term...lol) and only pay for M5 on the radius pieces.
 
I haven't discussed this with the canvas guy who is going to redo my fly bridge windows but I'm pretty certain that I'm going to go with Strataglass.

I take all the side and aft windows off the fly bridge for the summer, usually in late April and they stay off until September. I take those home and store them hanging in the garage. When I transport them I always have polyester blankets between each piece so there is no contact between the panels.

The front ones have "lift the dot" fasteners on them so I can store them in a raised position during the summer and only put them back down if we're running in a rain storm. They attach to the fore most stainless support rail that's just about over the helm seat.
 

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