Plasteak

Since my boat is an '87, I have solid teak inserts, steps, and handrails. They were in pretty rough shape when I bought the boat and require constant maintenance. A few Winters ago I sanded all the teak and varnished everything. It last 3 years and now needs to be done again.

I was looking at the PlasTeak, not the PlasDeck. They have inserts for $75 that match the original. They also make bow pulpit inserts and I was thinking of replacing the anchor hatch with an insert and anchor roller.

Here's a better link.http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1_29
 
Capt'n Paul,

What marine varnish did you use? I am refinishing my teak, and will use Sikkens, which I heard works very well.

Where do you boat on Lake St. Clair?

Gregg
 
Capt'n Paul said:
A few Winters ago I sanded all the teak and varnished everything. It last 3 years and now needs to be done again.[/URL]
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If I do any maintenance on my boat that lasts 3 years before it requires attention again, you can bet I'm doing it again.
 
I guess we've gotten a little off track regarding the original question, which I can answer by saying no, I have not used Plasteak.

I have a sample of Flexiteak in my office that I got at the Seattle Boat show a few years ago. It's interesting stuff, but if we're going a step further on the subject and asking for opinions, I don't care for it really. Basically, I'm not much for 'faux' products- materials that are supposed to look like something they are not.

As for caring for real teak, I've never found it to be too tough. My '79 260DA had a ton of it, as did my '86 300WE, and my '86 340EC. My BW Montauk also has the teak trim on the center console.

Once it's been cleaned well, which often takes the two part cleaners such as Teka, and sanded reasonably smooth, I use Sea Fin teak oil. Following the directions on the can, I wipe it on, and wipe it off once it's soaked for a few minutes. A couple of days later, I do it again. After maybe three 'coats', if you can call it that because you wipe it back off each time, it's good to go, and beautiful.

Maintenance is just washing it when you're washing the boat, and if the grain starts to get soiled, using a scrub brush or scuffy pad with soap and water. Once or twice a year I rub it again with teak oil. It never 'builds up', so there's never anything to strip and refinish, which is my problem with varnish.

Occasionally you'll see an older 390EC or 460EC that has had the teak replaced with King starboard. I always hate to see that. The teak gave them a nice look of quality.
 
ghuskin said:
Capt'n Paul,

What marine varnish did you use? I am refinishing my teak, and will use Sikkens, which I heard works very well.

Where do you boat on Lake St. Clair?

Gregg
Click to expand...
Gregg,

I would have to look at the can but I do know that it wasn't Sikkens. Everyone has told me that Sikkens is the best for teak.

I trailer my boat so I will launch it at Ballard, Harley and Selfridge. I like to use the boat for fishing and will go where the fish are so that is just about everywhere. I have spent some time in the North Channel, Sni, Middle Channel and Shipping Channel.

Where do you hang-out?
 
As for caring for real teak, I've never found it to be too tough. My '79 260DA had a ton of it, as did my '86 300WE, and my '86 340EC. My BW Montauk also has the teak trim on the center console.

Once it's been cleaned well, which often takes the two part cleaners such as Teka, and sanded reasonably smooth, I use Sea Fin teak oil. Following the directions on the can, I wipe it on, and wipe it off once it's soaked for a few minutes. A couple of days later, I do it again. After maybe three 'coats', if you can call it that because you wipe it back off each time, it's good to go, and beautiful.

Maintenance is just washing it when you're washing the boat, and if the grain starts to get soiled, using a scrub brush or scuffy pad with soap and water. Once or twice a year I rub it again with teak oil. It never 'builds up', so there's never anything to strip and refinish, which is my problem with varnish.

Occasionally you'll see an older 390EC or 460EC that has had the teak replaced with King starboard. I always hate to see that. The teak gave them a nice look of quality.[/quote]

John,

Yes, maintaining the teak is not that bad but I would prefer non-maintenance during the short boating season here in Michigan. That means most projects are done in the off-season. I started out oiling the teak and it seemed to only last a few weeks before starting to turn grey.

I also agree with you with regards to using King Starboard. I think the teak adds a classic look to the boat. I'm also seeing a number of boat manufacturers using synthetic decking products on their new models that are all made from the same material.

Paul
 
Capt'n Paul,

We stay mostly down by the Ford home. We keep the boat by the nautical mile. the kids like to swim in the shallows by "Art Van's" place. Also, the smallmouth were hitting pretty good right their during the summer, and perch later (september). My father has a fishing boat that he keeps in the same marina, so we take his for bass and perch. We'll try Walleye in the channel/river next year. A frind of mine likes to go after Muskie, so we'll go wherever they're hitting, on his boat.

I have gone up to Metro, and the Clinton River (went to the boat show then to dinner with my son). I'm looking to expand my reach, as I'm getting more comfortable with the boat's capabilities and limitations. This was the first year, and about 20 years since the last time on the water.

What were your thoughts on the fishing this past year?

Gregg
 
I have lots of teak on my sailboat.

Nobody that actually likes there boat will ignore the teak. It needs varnishing every two years at the longest.
 
For your information, I got an estimate to Flexiteek my swim platform, which is about 18 square feet. The cost of the complete job is $3,400. $190 per square foot!!! I'm in the wrong business! The promotion touted it is "a little more than half the cost of real teak." So, do you think it sounds right that real teak on my 18 sq.ft. swim platform should cost $6,000? What have you all paid per square foot on Flexiteek and real teak?
 
Mike,

Can't comment on the decking material pricing, but when this thread started I looked at the 'solid' plasteek components. Based on those and the work I have done with teak furniture building, I would guess that the price of the replacement plasteek inserts and handrails is about equal to the material costs for the same items in teak. That being the case, labor and profit would be the difference. So the simpler items would be on par and the more complicated would be below the cost of teak.

On the price they gave you was that based on using a design they already had in house, or doing a custom job?

Henry
 
I contacted the installer to make it clear that I understood the $190 per sq ft intalled price and their claim of being "slightly more than half the cost of real teak." I asked if real teak is $350 per square foot installed. He replied with an adjusted quote of $1,800 for the plasteak. The price went to "slightly more than half" the original quote. I've seen contractors of all types throw out a highball number and people going for it without any questions. I wish I had so much disposable income that overpaying would not concern me.
 
I have seen the PLASTEAK swim platform inserts and the bow railing. I personally think it looks cheap. Does not look good on a boat (IMHO). The initial cleaning and prepping of real teak takes a little work, but after it's done, it looks great. SIKKENS is GREAT.

A little tip for cleaning teak that has not been stained. Use powdered AJAX. Put a little on a brush and wet the teak. 30 secs to a minute of scrubbing. Wash it off, wait til it dries and you'll be AMAZED!!
 
Well, I have a different opinion. After slipping and falling into the water (fully clothed) from my swim platform, I decided to have the fleixteak installed. First, the bad news. It does get a bit hot in the sun, but it's not unbearable. A little water from the aft shower head and it cools down. The good news. IT LOOKS GREAT and not at all cheap. It adds a very classy look to my 390 SR. My local SHIPWRIGHT George Biddle did an excellent job installing it and IMHO, I defy anyone who didn't know it's not real teak to know the difference. I'm very happy with.
 
How was it installed? Was it in kit form, or did the installer do everything? Can you post pictures? I've been contemplating doing the cockpit area of our 280, as an alternative to replacing the snap in carpet.

Henry
 
Used Plasteak to make platform for our 420 DB, great product would defiantly recommend it to anyone, seems to be very durable, looks great and basically is maintenance free.
 
xtremeski247 said:
Used Plasteak to make platform for our 420 DB, great product would defiantly recommend it to anyone, seems to be very durable, looks great and basically is maintenance free.
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Why not post a picture. My experience with this product is that it looks like cheap, poorly made plastic with a very unconvincing faux wood grain stamped into it, but maybe it's better now????? Pictures would solve.
 
To answer your question Pirate I will upload some pictures on here as soon as I get a photobucket account, apparently thats the only way to upload pictures. We however used this product not with any intentions in replicating a teak look, I agree it may be poor choice in that since, we however figured it would be a good solution for a cheap lightweight, yet durable platform for our dingy. We have had many complements on how great it looks and considering the cost of a fixed fiberglass platform, Plasteak provided a great alternative that worked out well. We choose to used the white plasteak, to match the boat and keep the same modern look.
 
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