Pink Antifreeze Flush Container, Fogger, and Storage Questions!

[Glocker]

I can't believe I finally have a boat, I've only been out on it twice this season, and I'm already planning on winterizing it although it's October 1st and we're still seeing temps in the low 90's here. But I figure I had better get a plan together so I'm ready to do it, as the cold season will be on us soon down here in Georgia.

I plan on buying one of those systems that allowed you to run the antifreeze through the muffs on the outdrive. This system here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXQU2/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I understand you run it like this until pink antifreeze is coming out; and that should mean that water has been flushed out of the system. I figured I'd run the five gallons of the pink antifreeze through this way. If I do it like this, do I still need to undo all of the drains on the motor to drain the block and manifold? Or is it okay to let the antifreeze sit in all of the systems during the winter to be flushed out by water during the next boating season?

I'm thinking about getting this package with 6 gallons of anti-freeze, fogger, and fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/AMRW-K3-50-I...way&sprefix=boat+winter,automotive,144&sr=8-3
Should I be concerned by the no-name antifreeze?

I also understand that to fog the motor I need to pull the cover off the carb and spray down in it until the boat dies. Do I really have to pull each plug from the cylinder, spray each bore, replace the plugs, and then bump the motor?

As far as storage goes, my boat will be outside in an open yard. My boat has tonneau covers for both the front and rear. My plans are to use those, throw a large cover over the whole boat, and leave the drain plug out. Is that a sound plan?

Oh yeah! I had the fluids changed when I got the boat about a month ago. It's only been in the water once since then and I'll probably put it in the water once more this season. Will I be good skipping an end of season oil change?

Thank you!

 

[Seapig]

I drain all water from manifolds and block drains making sure that the block drains aren’t clogged with rust. I pull the large hose off the circulating water pump to drain the water that usually pockets there. Then I run it to suck in 2-3 gallons of propylene glycol (don’t used alcohol).

I usually pour about 8 oz of a 50/50 mix of 2 cycle oil and diesel fuel in the carburetor primaries or into the throttle body, Fire it up, instantly rev it to 3000 or so, and shut it off immediately. I pull the belt(s) so they don’t “take a set” and spray EVERYTHING metal with WD-40. Leave the drive down. Crack the OD drain to make sure the oil isn’t water contaminated and/or change it. Pull the battery and keep it charged periodically to make sure it doesn’t get sulphated.

Outside storage is tricky. If water gets in and freezes at the hull drain, it can accumulate inside and ruin things. Make sure your cover is well supported, can shed snow ice and water and won’t leak.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Things could go wrong with that method. There's tons written on CSR about this, if you want to search. But here's a guaranteed way to make sure everything will be OK. I'm going to assume you have a carb'd engine.

-- Treat your fuel for storage, making sure to run the engine long enough to get the stabilizer through the system.
-- Change the engine oil, drive fluid (new gaskets) and the oil filter and F/W sep filter.
-- Run engine and fog (spraying is fine with your carb'd engine).
-- Turn engine off and drain the block, manifolds and water pump hose. Poke the drain holes to ensure fully drained and reinsert plugs.
-- Pour the correct (propylene) AF into the (4) hoses on your t-stat housing.
-- Done.

The draining/filling part is a 15 minute job.

 

[Glocker]

I drain all water from manifolds and block drains making sure that the block drains aren’t clogged with rust. I pull the large hose off the circulating water pump to drain the water that usually pockets there. Then I run it to suck in 2-3 gallons of propylene glycol (don’t used alcohol).

I usually pour about 8 oz of a 50/50 mix of 2 cycle oil and diesel fuel in the carburetor primaries or into the throttle body, Fire it up, instantly rev it to 3000 or so, and shut it off immediately. I pull the belt(s) so they don’t “take a set” and spray EVERYTHING metal with WD-40. Leave the drive down. Crack the OD drain to make sure the oil isn’t water contaminated and/or change it. Pull the battery and keep it charged periodically to make sure it doesn’t get sulphated.

Outside storage is tricky. If water gets in and freezes at the hull drain, it can accumulate inside and ruin things. Make sure your cover is well supported, can shed snow ice and water and won’t leak.

I forgot about the battery. I will be pulling that and keeping it on a maintainer in my garage during the winter.

 

[boatrboy]

.......
-- Pour the correct (propylene) AF into the (4) hoses on your t-stat housing.
.......

Lazy Daze - on a 5.0 carb'ed there are (a) two hoses on top going to risers (elbow) - these are the ones with the spring and ball set-up, (b) 2 lower going to exhaust manifolds, (c) one raw water "in" and (d) the big one going to water pump. On these motors do you remove all the hoses and pour into all? or just the top ones (a), (c) and (d)?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[JVM225]

Things could go wrong with that method. There's tons written on CSR about this, if you want to search. But here's a guaranteed way to make sure everything will be OK. I'm going to assume you have a carb'd engine.

-- Treat your fuel for storage, making sure to run the engine long enough to get the stabilizer through the system.
-- Change the engine oil, drive fluid (new gaskets) and the oil filter and F/W sep filter.
-- Run engine and fog (spraying is fine with your carb'd engine).
-- Turn engine off and drain the block, manifolds and water pump hose. Poke the drain holes to ensure fully drained and reinsert plugs.
-- Pour the correct (propylene) AF into the (4) hoses on your t-stat housing.
-- Done.

The draining/filling part is a 15 minute job.

That’s the routine I use for my kids 18’ Bowrider.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Lazy Daze - on a 5.0 carb'ed there are (a) two hoses on top going to risers (elbow) - these are the ones with the spring and ball set-up, (b) 2 lower going to exhaust manifolds, (c) one raw water "in" and (d) the big one going to water pump. On these motors do you remove all the hoses and pour into all? or just the top ones (a), (c) and (d)?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, A & B simply form a "loop". So it doesn't matter which one you use. You could, of course, pour into both just for good measure - but they both basically go to the same place.

 

[boatrboy]

Mark, A & B simply form a "loop". So it doesn't matter which one you use. You could, of course, pour into both just for good measure - but they both basically go to the same place.

Thanks - I've been winterizing mine and my friends boats removing the thermostat (since I replace that every year), draining the water from the block, manifolds and hoses and using the muffs for years. This takes more time than what pros like you do obviously, but I usually don't care about the extra time. After reading your posts over and over, I think after doing all the other winterizing tasks I will do this and save myself some time. Thanks again

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks - I've been winterizing mine and my friends boats removing the thermostat (since I replace that every year), draining the water from the block, manifolds and hoses and using the muffs for years. This takes more time than what pros like you do obviously, but I usually don't care about the extra time. After reading your posts over and over, I think after doing all the other winterizing tasks I will do this and save myself some time. Thanks again

The way you're doing it is perfectly fine. If you're comfortable doing it that way... there's absolutely nothing wrong with taking a little extra time when it's "your time". Besides, as the saying goes... "There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much doing as simply messing about in boats."

If you do change methods, you'll at least save yourself some money by not changing the t-stat every year. That's one of those things that you change "as needed" - for the most part. Plus, it makes easier to fog the engine (especially with an MPI) since you don't have to "time it" based on the amount of pink stuff.