Permanent Pump Converter Winterizing Kit- Allows You to Use Boat/RV Water Pump to Fill Pipes With An

BTW, when you are running around turning on water, either to pink the lines or blow them out, don't forget to turn on the windshield washers if you have them. Re-learned that lesson the hard way a few years ago.

Also make sure to pull the ice maker line(s) to do the same. You must disconnect the line from the regulator to get the water out.
 
@techmitch Mitch, I get your point and it's valid, but I have been doing it this way for many years and not just my boat. I have never had an issue. This is how it was done before the RV anti-freeze was so prevalent. Remember it's not actually full open CFM, the lines should be being pulsed and then run free.
 
@techmitch Mitch, I get your point and it's valid, but I have been doing it this way for many years and not just my boat. I have never had an issue. This is how it was done before the RV anti-freeze was so prevalent. Remember it's not actually full open CFM, the lines should be being pulsed and then run free.
Totally get it and agree. It's just the low spots or loops in places with poor access that give me the creeps as Dennis mentioned above.
 
Yea - I have something a little more elaborate I’ve been using, but as I said if not using a compressor, how are you getting the water out of the city water line ( Greg and lazy)
Sky already mentioned but... the city water line and the "pump" water line are one in the same. They are all connected. The only place where this differs is between the tank and the pump. But after the pump, everything is all the same - it's all just one big water line conencted together.
 
Totally get it and agree. It's just the low spots or loops in places with poor access that give me the creeps as Dennis mentioned above.
First thing I do on winterizing day is hook up the inflator and make a round opening faucets until there is no water coming out. Then I let it sit until later in the day, make another round and always get a significant amount of water; it mystifies me where it is hiding. I'm not sure a more robust air source would make a difference but maybe it would do a better job of getting the water out on the first pass. It also occurs to me that running pink might not be solving the problem of water "hiding" somewhere in the system. I'm OK with my process and am confident I've gotten all the water out by the end of the day (unless I forget the windshield washers).
 
Sky already mentioned but... the city water line and the "pump" water line are one in the same. They are all connected. The only place where this differs is between the tank and the pump. But after the pump, everything is all the same - it's all just one big water line conencted together.
Just to clarify, my pump is mounted on the water heater and then goes to a manifold, but the city water line I’m referring to goes to transom locker to the inlet, and then into the manifold.

So I guess my question is, when you add antifreeze, let’s say to the in-feed line of the pump, you now start opening faucets to get the water to be “pushed out” by the antifreeze. But, the city water inlet has a regulator on it and a check valve so no water exits the fitting. Isn’t there water, not antifreeze in that line leading up to the water hose inlet fitting? Are you saying that the antifreeze dilutes this water or actually mixes enough to escape the transom shower when that valve is opened? I do realize you are thinking “Mark is a typical engineer, always over thinking” :)
F3AE9EE7-0AEA-4BB3-AA72-63DE6A5B136C.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Just to clarify, my pump is mounted on the water heater and then goes to a manifold, but the city water line I’m referring to goes to transom locker to the inlet, and then into the manifold.

So I guess my question is, when you add antifreeze, let’s say to the in-feed line of the pump, you now start opening faucets to get the water to be “pushed out” by the antifreeze. But, the city water inlet has a regulator on it and a check valve so no water exits the fitting. Isn’t there water, not antifreeze in that line leading up to the water hose inlet fitting? Are you saying that the antifreeze dilutes this water or actually mixes enough to escape the transom shower when that valve is opened? I do realize you are thinking “Mark is a typical engineer, alway over thinking” :)
View attachment 134795
My city water inlet is right next to the transom shower off a short tee into the line that feeds that shower. So, sending pink through that line and out the shower should get most if not all of the water out of the line. I suppose there might be some left in the tee.
 
I also look at my water manifold. It is mounted vertically. I use a compressor and blow out starting with the top line on the manifold and then work my way down.

Jaybeaux
 
Just to clarify, my pump is mounted on the water heater and then goes to a manifold, but the city water line I’m referring to goes to transom locker to the inlet, and then into the manifold.

So I guess my question is, when you add antifreeze, let’s say to the in-feed line of the pump, you now start opening faucets to get the water to be “pushed out” by the antifreeze. But, the city water inlet has a regulator on it and a check valve so no water exits the fitting. Isn’t there water, not antifreeze in that line leading up to the water hose inlet fitting? Are you saying that the antifreeze dilutes this water or actually mixes enough to escape the transom shower when that valve is opened? I do realize you are thinking “Mark is a typical engineer, alway over thinking” :)
Believe me, I get it! I started my schooling in a mechanical engineering program before switching majors. But, yes, I can completely understand why you're asking for further explanation :) No problem, at all!

Yes, the city water line you're referring to is connected with the all of the rest of the lines (after the fresh water pump). In other words, your fresh water pump will ALSO send water to the transom locker washdown.

But, to better answer your question... let's pretend we're stepping onto the boat to start this process. After/during running the fresh water tank dry, one would have gone around to each faucet and opened them up till water no longer comes out. At the the transom locker, you would do the same thing with the washdown. At this point, the city water input would have drained down, too. Once you start charging the system with AF, you would again open all valves to prove there is pink everywhere. IF there happened to be a bit of water still lying in the line behind the regulator (unlikely), it would be a miniscule amount which, first, would not be "filling" the line so there is no way it would cause any damage because there is plenty of space for it expand to... and second, the AF being pushed into that line would completely dilute the tiny bit of water still there.

The "not be filling the line" part of what I said... to further explain... first, imagine holding (horizontally) a straight piece of hose line that is filled with water. If you then open one end so it drains, most of that water (if not all) is going to drain out. There could be a few small puddles of water that remain due to the friction between the water and the line. Now, put that line in the freezer. Yes, the remaining water will freeze, but it is not trapped in any way - there is plenty of space for that water to expand and in no way will it expand AGAINST the wall of the water line. This is also why the fresh water tank doesn't crack after you run it dry - there is always a little water that remains in it - maybe an inch or so of water. But when the water freezes, it will push UPWARDS because of there is plenty of space for it to go, rather than pushing against the sidewalls. Well, it will push against the sidewalls a small amount, but not with anywhere near enough force to crack the tank - the brunt of the expanding force is directed upwards into free space.
 
Totally get it and agree. It's just the low spots or loops in places with poor access that give me the creeps as Dennis mentioned above.
Like this spot in the plumbing on my RV. It’s actually a “trap” formed by a line that runs from the city water hook up to the tank fill. Any residual water left in the lines will settle there at that low coupling, at least in my opinion. Advantage of the rv is that I can see every bit of water line that runs in it, I can’t in my boat. So I use pink in both. Others do not and do ok. Not a risk I want to take. Just me.
A10EC565-AB0F-46C4-8C55-45DC6040F239.jpeg
 
Believe me, I get it! I started my schooling in a mechanical engineering program before switching majors. But, yes, I can completely understand why you're asking for further explanation :) No problem, at all!

Yes, the city water line you're referring to is connected with the all of the rest of the lines (after the fresh water pump). In other words, your fresh water pump will ALSO send water to the transom locker washdown.

But, to better answer your question... let's pretend we're stepping onto the boat to start this process. After/during running the fresh water tank dry, one would have gone around to each faucet and opened them up till water no longer comes out. At the the transom locker, you would do the same thing with the washdown. At this point, the city water input would have drained down, too. Once you start charging the system with AF, you would again open all valves to prove there is pink everywhere. IF there happened to be a bit of water still lying in the line behind the regulator (unlikely), it would be a miniscule amount which, first, would not be "filling" the line so there is no way it would cause any damage because there is plenty of space for it expand to... and second, the AF being pushed into that line would completely dilute the tiny bit of water still there.

The "not be filling the line" part of what I said... to further explain... first, imagine holding (horizontally) a straight piece of hose line that is filled with water. If you then open one end so it drains, most of that water (if not all) is going to drain out. There could be a few small puddles of water that remain due to the friction between the water and the line. Now, put that line in the freezer. Yes, the remaining water will freeze, but it is not trapped in any way - there is plenty of space for that water to expand and in no way will it expand AGAINST the wall of the water line. This is also why the fresh water tank doesn't crack after you run it dry - there is always a little water that remains in it - maybe an inch or so of water. But when the water freezes, it will push UPWARDS because of there is plenty of space for it to go, rather than pushing against the sidewalls. Well, it will push against the sidewalls a small amount, but not with anywhere near enough force to crack the tank - the brunt of the expanding force is directed upwards into free space.
Lazy - you have the patience of a saint when dealing with me. Thanks for the great detail. It makes perfect sense. In my mind I overlooked that the transom wash down was connected so closely to the city inlet. I will buy beers and shots when we get the opportunity to meet!
 
The only caveat on using air is you MUST disconnect BOTH sides of the pump and blow out the pump as well.

Orlando- I use air as well connected at the city water inlet. After draining fresh water tank and all outlets and faucets I use the air compressor. and walk around each outlet again to assure plenty of air coming out. I haven't disconnected the sides of the pump - should I be?
Thanks - Mark
 
Orlando- I use air as well connected at the city water inlet. After draining fresh water tank and all outlets and faucets I use the air compressor. and walk around each outlet again to assure plenty of air coming out. I haven't disconnected the sides of the pump - should I be?
Thanks - Mark

Mark - I only disconnect the pump because I get worried if there is any water still in the valves and it gets really cold and the ER heater doesn't keep up. What I do is disconnect both side, I use the quick disconnects that came with the pump, and blow out with air. Then run the pump and shoot air through it while it is running. Put every thing back together and done. I should mention I also have a hot water bypass as well. The only thing to do in the spring is fill the tank, turn on the pump and your in business. I put a little (very little) bleach in the tank and only fill 1/4-1/3 and run it through and everything smells clean and no worries. I do this because of the ice makers, after the that is run through I reconnect the ice makers and let run. Completely done in under an hour in the fall and the same in the spring.
 
Lazy - you have the patience of a saint when dealing with me. Thanks for the great detail. It makes perfect sense. In my mind I overlooked that the transom wash down was connected so closely to the city inlet. I will buy beers and shots when we get the opportunity to meet!
Nah, I just really enjoy this stuff! But I'll take the compliment... and the beer/shots!
 
Mark - I only disconnect the pump because I get worried if there is any water still in the valves and it gets really cold and the ER heater doesn't keep up. What I do is disconnect both side, I use the quick disconnects that came with the pump, and blow out with air. Then run the pump and shoot air through it while it is running. Put every thing back together and done. I should mention I also have a hot water bypass as well. The only thing to do in the spring is fill the tank, turn on the pump and your in business. I put a little (very little) bleach in the tank and only fill 1/4-1/3 and run it through and everything smells clean and no worries. I do this because of the ice makers, after the that is run through I reconnect the ice makers and let run. Completely done in under an hour in the fall and the same in the spring.

I do this as well, and just to ease my paranoia i dump a gallon of cheap(ish) vodka down into the fresh water tank... Can't hurt!
 
I think i may give this a try this season. My only concern is the bit of water remaining in the line coming from the water tank. I like the vodka idea. Was also wondering if i could just open my tank fill, disconnect the water line to the pump and put a vacuum on it to pull out any remaining fresh water in the line?
 
I think i may give this a try this season. My only concern is the bit of water remaining in the line coming from the water tank. I like the vodka idea. Was also wondering if i could just open my tank fill, disconnect the water line to the pump and put a vacuum on it to pull out any remaining fresh water in the line?

I take the line from the tank to the pump off and drain it.
Kind of have to in order to empty the sediment filter that is inline right before the pump. I would vacuum that line if so inclined.
 
I think i may give this a try this season. My only concern is the bit of water remaining in the line coming from the water tank. I like the vodka idea. Was also wondering if i could just open my tank fill, disconnect the water line to the pump and put a vacuum on it to pull out any remaining fresh water in the line?

Just take the line off the pump and run it into the bilge. If you have two pumps and lines, be sure to take them both off of the pump. One of mine is further back on the tank than the other and the bow high attitude of being blocked up results in that one being the “important” one. Any left in the tank is no problem as long as the fittings where the hoses are attached to the tank are drained.
387E7293-B258-46AC-BB83-AB550DCDDAAC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I should have added that if you do this work before the yard has moved your boat to it’s finally storage spot, leave the lines unhooked. The repositioning may allow residual water to refill the lines. I leave everything unhooked all winter
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,124
Messages
1,426,663
Members
61,037
Latest member
wojozobl
Back
Top