Oxidation?

[Twarf]

I have been on the site for a while reading and learning quite a bit. Finally got my Sea Ray home for some much needed TLC. The last thing I want to do before taking it back to the lake is to wax it and get the shine back on it above the rub rail. As you can see in the pic, just below the button the line of shine vs. no shine. I am assuming this is oxidation? I have read other posts about waxing and compounding. I don't really have a good idea, if wax alone with remove the oxidation or what process I should use to get the shine back. Any help would be appreciated.

My sea ray is a 1998 2300 signature with just over 300 hours on it. Bought it at the end of summer last year. It is in excellent condition as indicated by the hours, it has not been used much. I have added dual batteries, side exhaust with pneumatic diverters, a 10" sub with an amp and have just been cleaning it a lot. As I mentioned above, I am wanting to get the shine back!

 

[Cincy Aquaholic]

You will not be able to remove oxidation with just wax. And that looks like what you have. Wax is just a protectant layer. It is not designed to "remove" oxidation. Hard to tell how bad it is but doesn't seem terrible. You will need a "cutting" compound and most likely a rotary buffer with a wool pad to truly cut away the oxidation. It will depend on how bad it is in order to determine how aggressive you will need to be. You could possibly get away with just a polish but before you wax it be sure the glossy shine of the gelcoat is back otherwise you need to step up the level of cut you are using. Gelcoat is very forgiving unlike a car paint but start slow and practice and you will be able to remove it. You should be able to achieve a high gloss surface with a cutting creme/polish process. Just stay away from those cheap orbitals you see in walmart. Use a true rotary (even an cheap one from harbor freight will work) or get a direct drive random rotary tool. But those are expensive but in my opinion worth the money.

 

[Twarf]

Thanks for the information. I will certainly try that route.

 

[Tonka Boater]

I just tackled buffing/waxing oxidation on my 1998 Cobalt with amazing results. I posted my process in this thread....

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/12535-Polishing-Before-and-After?p=892852&highlight=#post892852

Here's a copy/paste of my response in that thread:

I've always polished and waxed my boats by hand but the red stripes were very oxidized this season. I've read every post on CSR about polishing and debated about getting a rotary polisher to tackle the oxidation. I decided to go cheap and plunked down $40 for the Meguiar's DA Power System. It's a 4" dual action attachment for your drill. I have a nice DeWalt corded drill that goes up to 2400 RPM's so I gave it a shot and was very impressed with the results.

I used Meguiar's #49 on the red stripes then #44 over the entire boat. I followed this with Starbrite Polish with PTEF then finished with Meguiar's Flagship. It took 6 hours and just as many beers but here's the result. I'm going to hit it with another coat of Flagship later this week.

Here's how the stripes looked before. Hard to really appreciate how oxidized they were from this photo. They were much worse above the rub rail.

 

[BurgundyS24]

It doesn't look that bad, go to HF and get their cheap variable speed buffer it's like 40 bucks. And a wool pad. Get some compound and go to town. That doesn't look like it will take much to get off. Then wax it. I have 2 cheapy buffers and they do fine.


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[Air O'Nautical]

There's an art to buffing....
I'll make it easy for you.

Get some Buff Magic..it's forgiving and can't really screw it up.
Only work about a 2ft X 2ft section at a time with a rotor buffer and wool pad as previously suggested.
With a 1" paint brush paint the 2X2 area to be buffed with a very thin layer of BM.
Work it with in with a rotary buffer and a wool pad left to right then, up and down then, diagonal one way then, the other.
Don't really apply any pressure.
Change the wool pad with a new one when it's caked up with material.
Do the whole boat this way.
Return with a clean rag and give the boat a quick wipe down.
Apply StarBrite polish or wax of your choice.
Done...

 

[northshore]

There's an art to buffing....
I'll make it easy for you.

Get some Buff Magic..it's forgiving and can't really screw it up.
Only work about a 2ft X 2ft section at a time with a rotor buffer and wool pad as previously suggested.
With a 1" paint brush paint the 2X2 area to be buffed with a very thin layer of BM.
Work it with in with a rotary buffer and a wool pad left to right then, up and down then, diagonal one way then, the other.
Don't really apply any pressure.
Change the wool pad with a new one when it's caked up with material.
Do the whole boat this way.
Return with a clean rag and give the boat a quick wipe down.
Apply StarBrite polish or wax of your choice.
Done...

Keep the buffer moving at all times.....

 

[Air O'Nautical]

Keep the buffer moving at all times.....

Yes always moving.
Also, hold the machine / pad at a very slight angle..very flat.