oxidation remover

Make sure you use a ton of this with whatever product you select.
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Meguiars makes great stuff. 3M makes great stuff. I've used them both and they do the job and do it well. This summer I thought I'd try the Leverage. It's a single product that's supposed to do everything from the oxidation removing to the shining/polishing. You know what? I was impressed! I still needed to go over the topsides twice, but it really did do a great job. And, I absolutely LOVE how easily the Leverage "wax" goes on. If that stuff holds up as well as it's supposed to, I'll probably start carrying the stuff in the store.

Read up on those threads that AV posted - there's a lot of info in there.

For a great thread on traditional waxes, search using Todd's handle (Nehalannia). He's got a great thread with information and instructions.
 
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I'm currently bringing a 32 ft 1995 maxum back to life for a customer. The boat was completely chalked out, rough feeling, black and algea streaked.

Here's what I used to achieve a mirror finish.

Sf77, washed thoroughly, twice. Used a hard bristled brush on the non slip.

Step 2. Speed buffer, 3000rpms, wool pad, meguiars heavy oxidation remover. This product kicked the oxidation straight in the ass. Left the finish very swirled, hazey, and dull. But a step in the right direction.

Step 3. Speed buffer, 3000rpms, 3m finnesse it, waffle foam polish pad. Used long slow passes, overlapped, took my time. Wow. Removed all swirls, hazy spots, left the boat very shiny and bright.

Step 4. Orbital buffer, Teflon wax, remove with terrycloth.

Step 5. Pat your self on the back, it's been a long 4 days.

In my opinion, there is no miracle all in one, potion that just magically fixes neglect. I think it's many steps, sweat, busted knuckles, and tired knees.

But, man, what a mirror shine that makes it all worth it.
 
I agree little steps i've used maguires with great results.But read some good stuff about this oxidation remover can't wait for march warm up to give it a try i'll post before and after pictures never know until you try ?.
 
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well we tried it I only made down 1 side and 3/4 of the other before I ran out of leverage oxidation remover. It was a little hard to use maybe it's just me being a novice buffer operator. But it did remove oxidation but left spots here and there thats why it probaly didn't last the hole boat because I had to keep going back to remove the spots .
 
Yes I saw the thread used a wool pad started out slow with harbor frieght machine with thumb dial then as it dried I buffed a lil faster until shine .I cleaned the pad often it reminded me of the rubbing compound I think it was called rubbing compound #7 I used on cars years ago. I just hope the spray wax is easier and better then the remover. Any tips on applying that ?
 
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I think the trick with the oxidation remover is to work quickly - try to get some speed going before it starts to dry. Once I played around with that stuff for a while, I found I can move quicker than a typical rubbing compound. I'd spread a line out on the boat, real quickly spread it out with the machine, then it hit right away at full speed. Keep playing with it - it does a real nice job.

I also found that when it stopped rubbing out easily, it was better to put a fresh pad on than to try and keep cleaning it. I did clean it a few times, but eventually it started to get a little "cakey" on the wool. I used two wool bonnets for the entire boat. I still haven't committed to stocking the stuff on the shelves - but am getting very close.

For the "wax" - I got better results if I washed the boat after the OR, rather than just wiping it down. Also, don't over saturate the rag you're using to apply it. Put 5 or 6 sprays onto the rag, then wipe. When it starts to run out, you won't really need to always be putting 5 or 6 sprays onto the rag - just enough to keep it damp. The product will bead up a tiny, tiny bit on the surface of the boat. If you're getting big beads, you're using too much product. Keep shaking the product, too.

There will be VERY little hazing of the product when it dries - much, much less than traditional waxes. In fact, I only needed one 12"x12" rag to do the "wax off" on the entire surface above the rubrail on my boat.

Good luck!
 
I'm more of a Maguires fan, but the wool bonnet you are using could be the key. Many use a polishing bonnet for oxidation removal, when you should actually be using a cutting pad instead. The cutting pad will dig into the oxidation better, and provide much less work.

j
 
fxsales said:
I'm more of a Maguires fan, but the wool bonnet you are using could be the key. Many use a polishing bonnet for oxidation removal, when you should actually be using a cutting pad instead. The cutting pad will dig into the oxidation better, and provide much less work.

j
Click to expand...

You're right, certain products work best with certain pads. But, the guy (Donnie Fulmer) that developed Leverage specifically recommends the wool. I can back-up his recommendation as I've had better luck with wool than foam when using his product. This stuff isn't the "normal" compound.

If you're not real familiar with this stuff, take a look at those two links I provided above. It's some interesting reading! :smt001
 
Exactly... my cutting pads are wool, and I labored through the first part with the fuzzy wool polishing pad. Here's an example from a random website
http://auto.myshophome.com/8-5-wool-cutting-pad

The soft fuzzy polish wool pads will add alot of labor cutting oxidation. Most people don't know the difference, and just go to Discount Auto and buy a wool pad.

j
 
that's the pad i used loop pile wool. I just thought it would go futher then it did ,but it did cut the oxidation and shined when polished . I got some buffing compuond alot looser and does take more to spread and cut but seems to work nice and easy . Then I'll wash it and try the wax seems alot of people like it hope it holds up all season but even if it don't sounds easy enough to reapply a coat .
 
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