Options for Bow Stop/Catch

89P270

89P270

Active Member
Feb 2, 2017
209
Pacific Northwest
Boat Info
1989 Pachanga 270
1997 270DA
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 357 4V alpha's
Need some advice. See photo. The boat was not originally set up on this trailer. This Bow stop is one of my last items to configure correctly. I need alternatives and location to purchase for the current Bow stop that is WAY too short. Any recommendations appreciated - BTW I think the my frame rails are the larger 3 x 5 inch, not that it matters. Its an Ez loader too. I need to make up that 24 inch space now. Appears prior boat on this trailer was not a Deep V. Also, yes, you can see I also have the winch bow stop too and no additional adjustments needed for that, its set right (bow is not snug against it in this photo as I just set the boat back on the trailer after removing the Brownell stands. WIll need to be floated to get it back snug. BTW - I also have a spare tire mount. Just havent got too it yet.
IMG_2440.JPG
 
If the winch stand is sufficient, you don't need the piece by the spare tire.
 
Is it sufficient? Hmm...I suppose under Typical driving conditions yes, its sufficient with just the winch mount. Its more about 1) Redundancy for safety and 2) improved resting points for the hull. Regarding #1, although I dont plan on an accident on the freeway, in the event the unfortunate happens, I prefer to have as many features as I can in stopping the boat and the truck becoming one. Regarding 2) Adding this keel stop supports "driving" the boat up on the trailer without the worry of damaging the winch stand, not that I race up on the bunks to begin with. This is sort of what I am thinking of but its for 3x4 and too small (unless I go buy additional u bolts):
Bow Rest Catcher Assembly for Boat Trailer Adjustable Galvanized Post Carpeted | eBay
They describe the "why" you may want this pretty well in this add - ie my number 2 above.
 
I can't speak as whether or not the existing winch stand IS sufficient since it's not in the picture. But IF it is, you really will be totally fine with just the winch stand. However, it's certainly not a problem to go overboard here. But I would go in a different direction - I would get some 3/8" chain and run it from the T crossmember up to the bow eye, using a turnbuckle. That would provide a higher degree of a "safety margin" than a bow rest.

You absolutely don't need it for power loading. I've loaded much bigger boats on plenty of ocassions - no real need for it. But, along the lines of what I mentioned above, if it makes you feel better then go for it! If the size/length of the bow catcher arm reaches your boat, just get the bigger u-bolts.
 
Good advice. The chain/turnbuckle was an Angle I hadnt thought too.
 
I've seen few different styles and methods. Here is what I ended up doing.

IMG_20210918_114156.jpg
Polish_20210927_133828930.jpg
 
Ah, yea, I like that HawkX. Any idea where the bow stop mount was obtained? I think the turnbuckle is readily available and a few locations I know of.
 
I had the cow catcher like Hawkx66 pictured on my last boat. Worked well, but, a tie down strap of some sort is still needed if the purpose is to keep from joining the boat and truck in a panick stop.
 
paulswagelock said:
I had the cow catcher like Hawkx66 pictured on my last boat. Worked well, but, a tie down strap of some sort is still needed if the purpose is to keep from joining the boat and truck in a panick stop.
Click to expand...
I have rear straps also.

IMG_20210918_114215.jpg
 
HawkX66 said:
I have rear straps also.
Click to expand...
Yep, I have rear straps too. I will likely also add the guides on my at some point. Those single post, do they yawl over when you roll onto the trailer or are they sturdy enough to hold in modest wind? Schedule 40 vs 80? The alternative is side bunks but a major difference in price. If the PVC can withstand the side load from retrieval, then that's the way to go - Minimal but functional.

I will likely get that same bow stop. I understand the "tricky" part to get the right angle too. You and I have similar DAs. Mines 1997 270.

Keep em comin. More ideas the better.
 
89P270 said:
Yep, I have rear straps too. I will likely also add the guides on my at some point. Those single post, do they yawl over when you roll onto the trailer or are they sturdy enough to hold in modest wind? Schedule 40 vs 80? The alternative is side bunks but a major difference in price. If the PVC can withstand the side load from retrieval, then that's the way to go - Minimal but functional.

I will likely get that same bow stop. I understand the "tricky" part to get the right angle too. You and I have similar DAs. Mines 1997 270.

Keep em comin. More ideas the better.
Click to expand...
The guides are priceless. They came with the trailer. They aren't only PVC. There's a 2"x2" piece of galvy box channel inside it for more strength. I can't see the trailer at all over the bow or the side when I'm approaching. I launch and retrieve by myself or with my wife and 9 yo most of the time also. I attach a rope to a bow cleat and around the winch stand. Once I get down the ramp I remove the winch cable, back into the water and tap the brakes. She slides off only as far as the rope and the guides keep her straight. I back the trailer in close to the dock so I can walk down and hop in the boat or walk the boat around to tie up while I move the truck. I have it down pretty good now. Less than five minutes which still feels like forever.
 
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Ha! exactly my procedures too. Launch by myself. Still fast than most at the ramps. These features really help to speed the process of launch/retrieval and long distance towing. I have had both kinds of guides (bunks vs pole style). The insert of steel channel inside the PVC are hard to find but the best. In wind, they can be a real saver -only if they can withstand the force of the boat/wind on them. Ill really make an effort to find those like you have. Thanks for the input.
 
I made my guides too. The trailer manufacturer has yet to answer any emails or even phone calls. So I copied another members guides. Total cost was just under $200. Mine have to move from the launch position to a stowed for road clearance. I am at just under 10' wide with just the boat. And with the guides sticking out put me at a measurement that would require a pilot car on most of the roads I would travel.

20210522_124937.jpg 20210602_162305.jpg 20210614_162545.jpg
 
Thats a great idea. Love those. I designed/installed a similar pair (not with the rotational configuration though). The thing I didnt like was drilling 3 holes for the mounts of each upright into the trailer channel frame. How did you mount those to the trailer frame?
 
The trailer had 2.5" square tubes that are about 5" long welded to the frame on the bottom. They each have two nuts welded to the receiver tubes to tighten the guides in place. I found a small shop that would sell me the tube to fit inside the reciever tubes and the 2" upright round pipe. For another $40, they welded the uprights to the tubes for me. I then used 2" id schedule 20 PVC for the guide tubes. Drilled the pvc and the uprights and bolted with 1/4-20 stainless bolts and nylocks. I will send you more photos when I set the desktop back up on the dining table. Have to take it down for Sunday dinner.
 
Square u-bolts are another option for mounting.
 
20211010_185647.jpg 20211010_185706.jpg 20211010_185742.jpg

1st is the front "stowed" tube.
2nd is the rear reciever tube.
3rd is the guide in the stowed position ready for travel.

I just walked out and took these. If you need anything else, just let me know.

I plan on welding the ends this winter and taking the pvc off to clean and powder coat everything. Or painting if I cant find an oven to cook them in. Might just leave them open and dip paint them as well. Havent made up my mind. That and at about 60lbs each now, they dont need more weight.
 
Friends has a formula 350. His trailer came with that set up from the factory. Nice re-creation and probably way less than the factory cost.
 
Yea, I like that welded square tube. Very sturdy. I may try the square Ubolts first if I can find 3x5 inch. Otherwise, I may break out the Mig for the first time and try that myself. Never used it but I have had a gas cylinder with it for 2 years now and just need a reason to buy the regulator and get going. Hmmm....Ill post photos when its done. Dont hold your breath though, this is project 5 down the line. Thanks for the photos too - Helps tremendously.
 
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