Opinion on water now draining out of hull when plug removed?

Thanks for the feedback. Well I put about 600 into it last year just in repairs, and so far this year after today probably around 700-800. We only gave 4500 for the boat, so I am really hesitant to put much more into it - I feel at the point of diminishing returns now I guess... Maybe what they do today will get me another year or two out of the boat, time will tell...
 
Not trying to scare you or to imply that you have transom rot which is contributing to your leak, but if you want to see how bad transom and stringer rot can get and how it's repaired, take a look at Frisco Jarrett's You tube channel and see what he went thru with his 1995 Sea Ray 220.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kopF4muvF0c&list=PL02C318B574CD948D
 
dburne said:
Thanks for the feedback. Well I put about 600 into it last year just in repairs, and so far this year after today probably around 700-800. We only gave 4500 for the boat, so I am really hesitant to put much more into it - I feel at the point of diminishing returns now I guess... Maybe what they do today will get me another year or two out of the boat, time will tell...
Click to expand...

I hear you and understand where you're coming from. But, given the boat is 24 years old... it's pretty much expected that there's going to be issues like this. Case in point - I just bought a boat that is 34 years old. I did my due diligence and thoroughly checked it out and am comfortable with the issues that are currently present (very few). But I also know that other things are going to pop up - it's just the name of the game when it comes to buying old stuff.

You can put some money into this boat and end up with a good running boat that will last years and years and years. Or you could sell this one and buy another one... but who's to say you won't have issues with that one. The only way to avoid paying for issues/repairs is to buy new - but then you're paying a lot more up front. Even so, getting your current boat into tip-top shape won't even come close to what a new one would cost... even if, for some reason, you had to have the transom recored.

Either way - good luck and I hope it turns out OK for you in the end.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input! I will let you know how it does on the water tomorrow - assuming he gets done today what he has said he will.
 
Hey gang, ok an update: Picked up boat from repair guy yesterday evening, what he had done was run a bead of sealant on the outside of the transom, around the housing that is bolted on. Personally I did not think this is where leak was coming from , but ok. The wife and I it took it to the lake today, ran it up to the marina - about a 20 minute cruise or so. I then took the engine cover off and got down on my belly and looked back in there, and sure enough the drip-drip drip coming out the same area, just below the inside left of the housing assembly - but of course, could not see where it actually is coming in.. However , as it turns out it only does this, when the engine is running! So we anchored, I shut the engine off and got on my belly - the drip slowed down until about 30 seconds or so it completely stopped. We sat there for about 2 hours, and not any more water taken on at all. Cranked the engine back up with cover still off, put it in forward gear at idle, got on my belly and sure enough - the drip -drip was back, drip about every 2 seconds. So as I thought, it is NOT a transom leak. I still maintain, it has to do something with the repair they did, something got knocked around or knocked loose, and is causing this. So I look some more all around, below is a pic of what I think is a water tube, connected with a hose clamp, to a white plastic fitting.
photo.jpg
Now while I could not see a drip underneath it, I put my finger under there with the engine idling, and I think I may be feeling some water at the bottom of that fitting. So my next step - tomorrow, I will put the muffs on the boat while in driveway, and run it at idle and take a good look around inside and see if I can see anything else, also will be able to confirm the leak is still happening with the boat out of the water, with water hooked up and engine is running. So today I confirmed, leak only occurs while engine is running, does not leak a drop sitting in the lake for couple of hours with engine off. I am dang determined to get to the bottom of this!!
 
You can stick a camera phone down there and probably get a better view of it (with a light).

Couple things I would do... Wiggle it around and see if the leak gets worse - remove the hose and see if the tube is cracked - tighten the hose clamp.

Looks like you're on the right track - keep at it. They wouldn't of messed with that to simply remove the drive, but just being in and around it could of done that "straw that broke the camel's back" thing.
 
Thanks Dennis, the idea of the camera phone is a good one I will give that a try. I intend to not come out of that boat tomorrow without somehow knowing where this darn leak is coming from! Hoping to anyway lol.
 
Thanks Mitch, there is an Advanced Auto Parts right down the street from me here , I will see if they have it tomorrow before I begin.
 
Well guys now I am even more dumbfounded. Just ran it in the driveway for about 45 minutes, and not a single leak! Got down on the floor with the inspection mirror, looked all over, and no water dripping whatsoever. So what I know now: Water drips in, about every 2 seconds, whilst on the water and while the engine is running. Sitting on the lake with the engine off, no leak at all. Only does this when the engine is running, and apparently only does this while in the lake... I ran it for a good 45 minutes here on the driveway, both at idle and at varying rpm, up to about the rpm I was cruising at on the lake. I even put it in gear at idle here and ran it that way a few minutes, still no leak. Ok so to summarize: Only leaks on the lake, and only when engine is running. Does not leak with engine off on the lake. Does not leak with engine running in my driveway with muffs on. This only started happening, after they replaced the gimbal bearing and u-joints. ( I still think may be a clue in that fact, but who knows). Running out of season here, guess I will have it winterized next and worry about it next year...
 
Carefully (no loose clothing, watch where you're putting your hands, etc)... play around with the water connection on the inside of the transom (in your picture) while the engine is running and see if you can get it to leak. Actually, before you run the engine, just turn the water on full blast and see if you can make it leak. If no joy, then try when running.
 
Thanks Dennis, actually I did try that a little with the engine running and it did not make a difference, still no leak.
 
Well to update on where I am gang: I have thrown in the towel I guess - the repair guy does not seem much interested in helping me any further, I have trouble shooted this about all that I can - I have taken the boat in to a dealer who does all types of repair, including fiberglass work as well. I work in the marine industry, and I have heard from a few he is very good and will do a good job for me. I stopped by there Monday on my way out of town ( about an hour and a half away from me ), and he feels very comfortable they will find the leak and get it resolved. I am also having them winterize it, and do a couple of other minor repairs I would like to get done. I took it in and left it with them this morning, may be a couple weeks or so but will update on how that goes. Of course, I won't be able to tell for sure regarding the leak until next spring... hoping for the best.
 
Well final update I guess: The shop I took it to kept it a few days to evaluate, and they called me with some grim news. They tell me it is indeed the transom that is leaking, and it is due to the transom is rotting... Right now it is just a slow drip-drip when the engine is running, but certainly it is not going to get better and will eventually get worse. Other areas are rotting as well - sure, I could have them do a complete rework with new transom and replace all the rotting wood, but talking about putting in like 3-4k on a 23 year old boat. They told me I could continue to run , just make sure have a working bilge, but is going to be hard for me to feel comfortable taking the grandkids to the lake knowing this issue, and worrying that one day it will just start pouring in and then what... Kind of bummed out, this was our first boat and was doing so good , at least I thought. Engine runs great - I knew going in that buying a 1990 boat would be a roll of the dice , it is what it is... Not sure what I will do now going forward. I had them go ahead and winterize the motor, will pick it up tomorrow and park it for the winter, will see what the spring brings.
 
D,
Dont give up all hope and fret over it all winter. It seems to me you & the family enjoyed the boat too much to just give up and "throw in the towel". The new shop (1.5 hours away) may give you a deal if they do the work slowly over the winter as opposed to waiting till spring.

Wondering if you had the boat surveyed when you bought it a year ago? Also wondering why the shop that did the u joints & gimble bearing did not see any transom problem. Did your OP state an engine & drive replacement as well? Same shop that did the u joints? Same shop that wanted to "caulk around the transom"?

I'm not suggesting that you picked the wrong shop. I'm not suggesting you throw money at the boat either. That is for you to decide. Just thinking out loud I guess.

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 
Thanks Aweigh, Yes the wife and I have enjoyed this boat immensely, though she says it is uncomfortable for her - seats are kind of hard and she gets beat up somewhat when running over chop. But we have had a blast since getting it in June of last year. No, I did not get it surveyed, my first boat and guess I was just excited - we did do a lake test, engine sounded great, seemed to run great, and at that time no water came out of the bilge after pulling out of the water. The shop that did the ujoints and gimbal bearing, yes they put silicone around the transom housing on the outside, but they did tell me it was the transom leaking in their opinion - did not say anything about it rotting. The new shop, some folks I know tell me they are very good and reputable, and they told me it was the transom and it was rotting. They can do all the work, but told me looking at like 3-4k, and did not encourage me to consider it for this boat. I just don't think I can bring myself to put that much more into it, not sure what I will do next year - guess at least I have the winter to think about it. But yeah, pretty bummed... The repair shop where it is now, told me the engine and drive were in great shape - this engine was a Jasper rebuild that was put in the boat 4 years ago. It does run really smooth. Thanks for the encouraging words!
 
Well,that's a bummer. Sorry to hear that.

Do you have a "mechanical" friend? Pulling the engine isn't as big a deal as it sounds for someone who knows what they're doing - probably take just a few hours - that's pizza and a few beers. From there, maybe you can do some more disassembly on your own? Such as transom assemblies, etc. It would be a nice winter project - just work on it a little bit at a time. Once you get everything off, then you'll know to what extent the damage is... Maybe it's not as bad as you might be thinking.
 
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Lazy Daze said:
Well,that's a bummer. Sorry to hear that.

Do you have a "mechanical" friend? Pulling the engine isn't as big a deal as it sounds for someone who knows what they're doing - probably take just a few hours - that's pizza and a few beers. From, there, maybe you can do some more disassembly on your own? Such as transom assemblies, etc. It would be a nice winter project - just work on it a little bit at a time. Once you get everything off, then you'll know to what extent the damage is... Maybe it's not as bad as you might be thinking.
Click to expand...


And if it is that bad you will have a bunch of parts ready to sell on Craig's list and eBay. Take a video of the motor running to show a perspective buyer. Then take that money and the $4000 you would spend to fix it and put it in a new boat.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, but no I am really not able to work on this myself.
 
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