Official Cummins QSC-500 Thread

I just realized I didn't really answer your first question.

Removing the old filter, especially one that is clogged pulls a fair amount of fuel out of the housing. I really doubt you could get it to prime without topping up.

Another option is to plumb in a primer bulb before the filter to push fuel through. If it was me I would rather just put in a dual filter so you can swap to a clean filter.
 
Guys unless im missing something in the conversation , U never prefill filters on QSC . EVER. Just toggle the ignition switches 100 x . Ull hear the fuel pump run , wait for it to stop and repeat... MANY TIMES> do not over crank when u try and start. Just keep priming. LASt thing u need is unfiltered fuel clogging a fuel injector. Be patient and click the ignition switches.

Rob
 
Rob, unless I am mistaken were talking about the primary (10 or 30 micron depending on what camp you side with) Racor, not the secondary 2 micron on engine fleetguard filter.

The secondary you never prefill, you do the ignition on/off 20+ times trick.

I prefill the racors as the pint of fuel you add to the racor will do nothing to clog the secondary filter unless you have a seriously dirty fuel container and pour in muddy fuel. It helps to prime the engine faster.
 
swaterhouse said:
Rob, unless I am mistaken were talking about the primary (10 or 30 micron depending on what camp you side with) Racor, not the secondary 2 micron on engine fleetguard filter.

The secondary you never prefill, you do the ignition on/off 20+ times trick.

I prefill the racors as the pint of fuel you add to the racor will do nothing to clog the secondary filter unless you have a seriously dirty fuel container and pour in muddy fuel. It helps to prime the engine faster.
Click to expand...

Correct, I am talking about the Racors (primary), which you have to fill, not the secondary, which you never do (except with the ignition, as described).
 
Wow, ive never prefilled . I always toggle 100000x to fill. was always told never ever prefill.

Good to know will save me some toggling.

on another note , Do I have to close the fuel isolation valves to replace the spin on fuel filter. I sprung a leak on the stb side. ( no idea how and shes tight )

Ive always done the racor and spin on together so the valves are closed.

Thanx

Rob
 
I always shut off the fuel valves, and would guess you need to unless your tanks are low. The top of the filter is well below the top of the tank so you would likely create a siphon. Besides the starboard ones are easy to reach!
 
any reason why you couldn't open the valve and allow the racors to fill from the tank instead of pouring in diesel over top?
 
You could do what importmonkey is suggesting before you seal the top of the Racor. It would be a 2 man job in my book.
 
Robski97 said:
Wow, ive never prefilled . I always toggle 100000x to fill. was always told never ever prefill.

Good to know will save me some toggling.

on another note , Do I have to close the fuel isolation valves to replace the spin on fuel filter. I sprung a leak on the stb side. ( no idea how and shes tight )

Ive always done the racor and spin on together so the valves are closed.

Thanx

Rob
Click to expand...

You might consider changing the primary first. Run the engine for a couple of hours to trap any crap that may have been dislodged while changing the primary filter, in the old secondary filter. Then change the secondary filter.
 
BlueYonder said:
You might consider changing the primary first. Run the engine for a couple of hours to trap any crap that may have been dislodged while changing the primary filter, in the old secondary filter. Then change the secondary filter.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I try and get all that stuff done in one day. Zincs and all. might change my plan never year .

rob
 
OK, since we're on the topic of Racors, does anyone drain the bowls when replacing Racor Filter cartridges? Mine have always been clean, so I don't think that I have an issue. My question is more about the metal bowl that the glass bottom bowl of the filter appears to sit in. There is some sort of nut or plug on the bottom of the assembly, but I've read horror stories about folks breaking the glass portion trying to remove that nut. When the nut is removed, does the fuel drain into the metal bowl (maybe more of a shield) or does it drain out the bottom and you need to catch it in a bucket?

Also, has anyone ever removed the entire Racor assembly and changed all gaskets, o-rings, etc on the fittings, and given it a really good bench cleaning?

Jaybeaux
 
Jaybeaux,
The metal bowl is just a shield, held in place by the drain plug. No need to drain bowl unless you see lots of particulates in bowl or see water (should be a noticeable line).

importmonkey,
I suppose you could crack the valve and fill that way, but the port valve is so ridiculously hard to get to I avoid it like the plague! It would also mean contorting your body into each place twice when once is hard enough!

Rob,
I do like BlueYonder does, I do primaries the day I do 99% of my spring engine maintenance then do the secondary on engine filter once in the water and have made at least one short (2-3 hours round trip) run. I almost never have enough time on the hard to get everything done anyway, I leave the zincs and belts as last minute items once boat is in water when/if I run low on time on the hard.
 
Jaybeaux said:
OK, since we're on the topic of Racors, does anyone drain the bowls when replacing Racor Filter cartridges? Mine have always been clean, so I don't think that I have an issue. My question is more about the metal bowl that the glass bottom bowl of the filter appears to sit in. There is some sort of nut or plug on the bottom of the assembly, but I've read horror stories about folks breaking the glass portion trying to remove that nut. When the nut is removed, does the fuel drain into the metal bowl (maybe more of a shield) or does it drain out the bottom and you need to catch it in a bucket?

Also, has anyone ever removed the entire Racor assembly and changed all gaskets, o-rings, etc on the fittings, and given it a really good bench cleaning?

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...

I have removed and rebuilt numerous Racors and you would be surprised at the junk you will find. I needed to scrape a hard residue out of the bottom of the bowls on my last boat. They sell kits that include O rings etc. I also install shut off valves for the drains when they are out.
There is a nut and plug on the bottom which is the drain so you need to catch the fuel when either are removed.
As stated else where the metal bowl is just a shield. The nut holds the shield on and provides the threads for the plug.
The clear bowls are actually plastic and if you are careful when tightening during assembly you should not have a problem.
 
Gm all, So my port engine is spewing alittle BROWN smoke at throttle up from idle. smokes for only a few seconds...Def brown smoke, not black... thoughts ? Doesn't smoke any other time . only from idle.

Rob
 
For those of you that change your own oil - I just want to verify that each engine takes 5.2 gallons of Oil with a new filter? And second, what oil container do you use to capture old oil? Do you have a single container or start/stop filling a <5gal oil bucket to get thru the change? I would like to have one container that holds that much oil.. And yes, this is my first oil change with these engines...
 
villain style said:
For those of you that change your own oil - I just want to verify that each engine takes 5.2 gallons of Oil with a new filter? And second, what oil container do you use to capture old oil? Do you have a single container or start/stop filling a <5gal oil bucket to get thru the change? I would like to have one container that holds that much oil.. And yes, this is my first oil change with these engines...
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat.

Btw, I see 5.7gal as capacity. See attachment.

I'm taking a few 5gal buckets, but plan to use 2 of them at a time. I'll empty them after I finish one motor and reuse for the next one. I marked gallon graduations on them so I see how much I pump out.

Last year, I provided 14gal to my mechanic. He only used 12 (and that included the genset).
 

Attachments

  • Manual, Engine, QSC8.3_GenEngData_ds3038-30NOV2012.pdf
    41 KB · Views: 147
If you have the Reverso Oil PUmp system, you may want to pick up an extra impeller. Cheap insurance. Also, when you go to turn the Reverso Pump on, and it doesn't work, check the breaker panel in the engine room. Best practice is to leave that breaker in the OFF position.

Jaybeaux
 
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