Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Caterpillar specifically recommends Cat ELC (Extended Life Cooloant) which has a 6 year life span can be extended if you begin testing and adding SCA's. They offer 2 flushes: one is for a light cleaning when all you need to do is clean the system of any coolant by products. The other is a complete cooling system flush for applications where you do not know how long or what coolant was used and you need a heavy duty descaled.

Cat ELC is red or bright pink. Remove the expansion tanks cap and stick your finger into the tank and see if you get any solids on your finger and what color your finger is……..or send a coolant fluid sample to the Cat SOS lab for analysis. If your finger test is clean and you get no residue then drain the system and flush it with the light cleanser then drain and flush with fresh water then drain and refill with Cat ELC.
 
WHAT FRANK SAID !

and DON'T USE THE GREEN STUFF

RWS
 
View attachment 125625 View attachment 125626 I have changed/replaced the alternators on both my engines. Now my friend needs me to do his. I know this is a basic question, however, I don’t have the guards on my alternators and he does. Can I slip the alternators out without removing the guards. I know it will become apparent once the job begins. It would be nice to know ahead of time.
The answer to the question is YES. You can queerer the alternator out from behind the shield if you jet loosen the shield a little.
 
Corrrrrecto!

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PSA: clean your airsep elements frequently. I probably posted the same thing a year ago but it has amazed me since owning the boat how much grime can accumulate on the cones. We only run 100 hours a season, clean conditions and generally 2-3 miles from shore (no dust), clean bilge, etc., and there is still a steady stream of brown water when I use the cleaning solution and rinse them. Not to mention the fuzz that accumulates on the outside over the season

I’m sure it takes a fair bit of gunk to really restrict the intake, but it’s an easy maintenance item
 
Regarding the air filter elements, what should I use to clean them and is there a special process to cleaning them?
 
Just did my air filters with kand n kit from advance auto less than 20 bucks. My filter elements actually have kand m stamped on the rims. Lots of black stuff came off in the rinse.
 
Thank you , my boat 1998 . Shell 30W the same oil as in the engine use ?


Be aware th at Sea Ray used 3 different transmissions behind Diesel engines in the mid to late 90's:

Hurth- which was later acquired by ZF, and
Twin Disc

Hurth and ZF transmissions may require Dexron III ATF
Twin Disc usually requires SAE 30 or SAE 40 , depending upon the ambient temperature where you are.

Look at the the back of your transmissionfor the manufacturer's lable or tag. It will show the make and the type fluid or oil required.
 
Be aware th at Sea Ray used 3 different transmissions behind Diesel engines in the mid to late 90's:

Hurth- which was later acquired by ZF, and
Twin Disc

Hurth and ZF transmissions may require Dexron III ATF
Twin Disc usually requires SAE 30 or SAE 40 , depending upon the ambient temperature where you are.

Look at the the back of your transmissionfor the manufacturer's lable or tag. It will show the make and the type fluid or oil required.
Thank you for you help , I try to read label
20220320_152445.jpg
 
Be aware th at Sea Ray used 3 different transmissions behind Diesel engines in the mid to late 90's:

Hurth- which was later acquired by ZF, and
Twin Disc

Hurth and ZF transmissions may require Dexron III ATF
Twin Disc usually requires SAE 30 or SAE 40 , depending upon the ambient temperature where you are.

Look at the the back of your transmissionfor the manufacturer's lable or tag. It will show the make and the type fluid or oil required.
Hank you Frank. I posted the link to recommended fluids a few pages ago. I think it went unnoticed. It confirms what you said and is worth looking at.
 
Back to fuel treatment...

I found out today the previous owner used Stanadyne: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KSKP9H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A27JWNFOYDALZH&psc=1

Per Franks article this is one of 3 suggested. Should I continue to use this on every fill up?

Same question for Biobor, though I don't know if the previous owner used a biocide: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWT1XW/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I use all three things that Frank recommends.
1) Stanadyne Performance Formula or Stanadyne Lubricity Formula
2) Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
3) Power Service Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide

I bought the 80 ounce Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost. Use the empty container to premix 1/2 (40 ounces) of a new container with the appropriate amount of Power Service Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide and one bottle of Stanadyne Lubricity Formula. Treats 125 gallons of fuel. I make up 2 jugs of it and then it is simple to add during refueling - 1 jug per tank for up to 125 gallons. With 2 - 175 gallon tanks it covers virtually all of my fill ups. Easy and quick.
 

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