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Discussion in 'Diesel Engines/Drives/Transmissions/Props' started by carterchapman, Feb 12, 2021.
Ok, this makes sense, and helps. I am glad I asked. The "flow" of fuel makes more sense now as well.
Would if be helpful to fill the secondary filter through the outside circle of holes so the fuel is filtered going into the center? Then only little to no need to purge with the yellow plunger pump?
Yes. I think there was a thread about this a long time ago.
That adept ape channel on YouTube talked about it too he puts a red plug in the center and fills it through the holes
The best way to fill the secondary filter is to pour the clean fuel into the filter thru any orifice it will go in, wait until the fuel soaks into the filter media then do it again and again and again until the filter is full and the filter media will accept no more fuel in either the center or perimeter holes. The idea is to be sure you are filling the filter with fuel and not injecting any air into the process. Do it this way and it won't matter where you pour the fuel as long as it going in the filter.
What did you use to clean them with?
My hp is 420...
heat exchangers - for service
fuel coolers - for service
transmission coolers - for replacement
Aftercooler to be removed & serviced by CAT- not me
Please confirm the obvious - I can't find the oil cooler because it doesn't exist
I didn't know these engines had fuel coolers
yep, tube looking cooler right before the raw water pump inlet. It’s the last stop for fuel before it heads back to the tank
Yes there is an oil cooler on the 3116 / 3126 engines. It is on the side of the engine block behind the turbocharger mounted in the engine cooling jacket.
The only time it ever needs servicing is to clean gunked up engine coolant off of it.
Thanks for that info Tom.
Prior to removing the coolers I flushed the engines with fresh water, then ran her out on the Harbor with the CAT descale solution.
Drained it hot and flushed the engines with fresh water again.
The cooling systems on this boat were neglected.
Is this a solid plan?
I think you are solid. The only caution is if you observed corrosion in the cooling system. Then I would pull and take a look at the cooler. The last thing one needs is coolant contamination in the oil. Regardless, your oil analysis that should be done every oil change looks for coolant.
Boat was a California DOCK QUEEN - only 435 hours on her at time of survey
She passed the CAT engine survey, CAT oil samples and CAT blow-by tests
CAT COOLANT ANALYSIS
MODERATE AMOUNT OF FINE BROWN NON-MAGNETIC DEBRIS DETECTED. SAMPLE IS OPAGUE. CLOUDINESS MAYBE THE RESULT OF PARTIALLY DISPERSED INSOLUBLE CONTAMINANTS. NITRITE LEVEL (INHIBITOR) IS SLIGHTLY BELOW THE LOWER LIMIT. INSPECT FOR SOURCE OF DEBRIS. WE RECOMMEND TO RECOMMEND THAT YOU SCHEDULE UNIT FOR COOLANT CHANGE. DRAIN COOLANT, FLUSH SYSTEM 3-4 TIMES WITH WATER, REFILL WITH NEW COOLANT.
TRACE OF FINE BROWN NON-MAGNETIC DEBRIS DETECTED. SAMPLE IS CLOUDY. CLOUDINESS MAYBE THE RESULT OF PARTIALLY DISPERSED INSOLUBLE CONTAMINANTS. NITRITE LEVEL (INHIBITOR) IS SLIGHTLY BELOW THE LOWER LIMIT. INSPECT FOR SOURCE OF DEBRIS. ADD 1 QUART OF SCA (CAT P/N 3P2044) PER 10 GALLONS OF COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY TO BOOST NITRITE LEVEL. RESAMPLE AT THE NEXT ENGINE SERVICE TO MONITOR.
The only reason STBD came back better was freeze plug at bottom of turbo rusted out. Tech likely added some fresh coolant (and epoxied in the freeze plug) some time prior to purchase.
Likely BOTH samples would have come back looking like the Port side had the turbo not been repaired.
As far as the oil cooler is concerned, given that oil pressure (when running) is higher than coolant pressure if there was a breach it seems it would be oil into the water......... correct?
As I did with the Yanmars in my 10 Meter, I plan on doing oil samples with every oil change.
Perhaps I should consider doing them every X hours in between changes?
After the coolers are done CAT will service the AFTERCOOLER and set the injectors & timing overheads.
In the process, I'm also replacing all of the 25 year old hoses.
I have changed/replaced the alternators on both my engines. Now my friend needs me to do his. I know this is a basic question, however, I don’t have the guards on my alternators and he does. Can I slip the alternators out without removing the guards. I know it will become apparent once the job begins. It would be nice to know ahead of time.
Hi All . I have Cat 3126 what transmission oil do you use ? Thank you
Google Hurth. There are literally hundreds of fluids. Hurth has a list for your transmission model.
The list shows a lot of things that are foreign or aren’t locally available. If you call ZF, they will tell you about any Dexron III will work.
I use Mobile Delvac 1 Synthetic ATF as it specifically listed in the ZF Spec, and relatively easy to find. Takes about 2 gallons each, 4 total. Might be a little overkill but they are 20 years old…
What is the CAT descale solution? This is new to me.
I have always shied away from radiator cleaners in cars for fear they will corrode/break something in the internals and/or break something loose that does not flush out. Is this a concern for these 3126s?