Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Doing some HEX and cooling system work today. Having an overheating issue previously mentioned. HEX is clean, no impeller parts. Impeller is solid. Replaced the regulator, and there was no gasket left so put a new one on. EDIT* Found the coolant pump, and discovered that the belt that drives it is super loose. The coolant pulley spins freely in my hand and there is over an inch of play to either side if you push or pull the belt down. What needs to be removed to get the new belt onto the pulley?

The tensioner looks to be as tight as it could go, the bolt is at the very top of the slide. (Is that the tightest setting, or is the opposite?). I do believe we found our overheating issue!!!
 
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Thomas Griffith said:
Doing some HEX and cooling system work today. Having an overheating issue previously mentioned. HEX is clean, no impeller parts. Impeller is solid. Replaced the regulator, and there was no gasket left so put a new one on. Is there a coolant circulation pump? I cannot locate it in the exploded diagrams. We are trying to hunt down what could be causing this over heating.
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You should add your complete boat info. in your profile below your avatar as this will let others know what you have should they be able to help.
 
The belt tensioner should have a square hole in it to accept the male end of a 1/2" extension. Loosen the jam nut in the tensioner, stich the end of a socket extension in the hole and turn it with a rachet and then you should be able to loosen it to remove the belt or adjust the tension as needed.
 
fwebster said:
The belt tensioner should have a square hole in it to accept the male end of a 1/2" extension. Loosen the jam nut in the tensioner, stich the end of a socket extension in the hole and turn it with a rachet and then you should be able to loosen it to remove the belt or adjust the tension as needed.
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It seems like the belt wraps around the, forgive my ignorance, large round area where my tachometer plugs in at the very front of the motor. Am I way off on that? There are two belts of course, and a cover that I did not take off yet, so maybe I didn't actually see the one belt. Planning to get back at it in the morning.

Frank, what coolant do you recommend? I've gotten two different answers from Ring Power and Kelly tractor, and seems most fluids listed in the manuals are now something new.
 
The belt guard has to be removed to change the belts and it is a bear…………Be sure to photograph or label the washers and spacers uin the bely guard mounts……they have to go back where they came from or the belt. guard won't fit prpoperly.

Use only Cat ELC (Extended Life Coolant). The last I bought was under part number 2389-8648 . This is red coolant, not orange and not green or blue. It is prediluted so you use it straight out of the bottle. It has the correct anti-corrosive, anti- foaming and anti-cavitation additives and it has a 5 year life in marine applications so you just need to check the coolant level and never have to worry about the additives or ph. The next time you need deal with this is in 2026.

Cat does have a cheaper ethylene gylcohol coolant (for mostly trucks and construction applications) but you have to check the additives annually and add an extender periodically.
 
Thomas Griffith said:
It seems like the belt wraps around the, forgive my ignorance, large round area where my tachometer plugs in at the very front of the motor. Am I way off on that? There are two belts of course, and a cover that I did not take off yet, so maybe I didn't actually see the one belt. Planning to get back at it in the morning.

Frank, what coolant do you recommend? I've gotten two different answers from Ring Power and Kelly tractor, and seems most fluids listed in the manuals are now something new.
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Do you have an Glendinning Engine Synchronizer? If so the "tachometer" is actually the mechanical drive to the synchronizer. You will have to remove and reinstall these. There is a tool that will center everything up when you put it back together

This tool is about $10. If your in that far might as well replace the flex shafts as well as the tend to wear.

The $10 tool.


upload_2021-10-29_14-39-21.png
 
dtfeld said:
Do you have an Glendinning Engine Synchronizer? If so the "tachometer" is actually the mechanical drive to the synchronizer. You will have to remove and reinstall these. There is a tool that will center everything up when you put it back together

This tool is about $10. If your in that far might as well replace the flex shafts as well as the tend to wear.

The $10 tool.


View attachment 114652
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I have a synchro, not sure which one. I'm really just trying to get this thing to allow me to go over 1550 rpm to start. I'm sure there is a lot I'll want to do to it while I'm in there, but really need to focus on the main issue for now. I'm highly ADHD and if I start adding more to it, I'll never get it done and will never know if it can get on plane. I'm not even 100% sure my turbos are working properly since I haven't been able to kick kick in.
 
Thomas Griffith said:
I have a synchro, not sure which one. I'm really just trying to get this thing to allow me to go over 1550 rpm to start. I'm sure there is a lot I'll want to do to it while I'm in there, but really need to focus on the main issue for now. I'm highly ADHD and if I start adding more to it, I'll never get it done and will never know if it can get on plane. I'm not even 100% sure my turbos are working properly since I haven't been able to kick kick in.
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If your have the synchronizer...it's got to come off to get the the belts. It's just a bracket bolted on, but you need to align it when reinstalling, or the connector will eat itself. Tool is a necessity, unfortunately. I'll loan you mine, but after shipping back and forth cheaper to just buy one.

1500 rpm is about were the turbos start to kick in so if you can get the belts sorted out (it's a PITA) I think you should be good.
 
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Zincs????
So my first year with boat
I believe there are 11 zincs per engine. So the ones on the port engine do u have to squeeze between the engine and the fuel tank to gain access??
 
I didn't with my 3116's. but I changed my zincs every 90 days and never let them get to the point whjere I had to go zinc diving to get broken anodes out of the engine/heat exchanger. I could reach across the engine and get to all of mine.
 
Saverio said:
Zincs????
So my first year with boat
I believe there are 11 zincs per engine. So the ones on the port engine do u have to squeeze between the engine and the fuel tank to gain access??
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Zincs are a pretty easy job with a little prep work before you go to the boat. I make up all mine before I head down and then its about an hour job for both engines (unless as Frank calls it Zinc diving) once you get a system going (and don't let them go too long).

A couple points to make this job easier.

1. Buying anodes- You might consider Aluminum (they call this material Navalloy) anodes. They work in all types of water fresh, brackish salt, doesn't matter, and they claim to last longer than zinc. Buy here --> https://performancemetals.com/. Email barbara@caldwellcasting.com.

These are the ones for a 3126, and you can get ones for the Westerbeke as well (that might be the AE-0).

upload_2021-10-31_12-13-17.png



2. I bought 2 sets of Stainless Steel Hex Plugs --> https://www.boatzincs.com/114-9096-Cat-Plug.html

When I swap out, I get as much of the old anode off the plug, and throw the whole cap in a cup of rydlyme. Rydlyme will eat what is left up in the cap and leave the threads ready for a new anode. Add just a little blue Loctite to the new anode right at where the shoulder of the anode touches and that prevents the anode from unscrewing in the aftercooler as you unscrew the cap. New orings come from CAT.

I make these 10 at a time and let the Loctite cure. So far this make for a really easy job.

20211031_122333.jpg
 
dtfeld said:
If your have the synchronizer...it's got to come off to get the the belts. It's just a bracket bolted on, but you need to align it when reinstalling, or the connector will eat itself. Tool is a necessity, unfortunately. I'll loan you mine, but after shipping back and forth cheaper to just buy one.

1500 rpm is about were the turbos start to kick in so if you can get the belts sorted out (it's a PITA) I think you should be good.
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Thanks for the advice! Ordering the tool tomorrow! Will tackle the rest once it is here. In the meantime, I'm going to look at adding the other jobs now that I've got time to organize it. Just got back from FLIBS, and had a great time chatting with the CAT reps and learning some. They gave me some CAT burgees!!!!!
 
dtfeld said:
Do you have an Glendinning Engine Synchronizer? If so the "tachometer" is actually the mechanical drive to the synchronizer. You will have to remove and reinstall these. There is a tool that will center everything up when you put it back together

This tool is about $10. If your in that far might as well replace the flex shafts as well as the tend to wear.

The $10 tool.


View attachment 114652
Click to expand...


Where did you source your tool? A general Google search does not proffer any suggestions.
 
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