Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Shipping to NZ??!! Yeah, that changes it slightly! That Sea ray is a LOOOOONG way from home!

PM me your address if you like, maybe we can get you a better deal.
 
dtfeld said:
Shipping to NZ??!! Yeah, that changes it slightly! That Sea ray is a LOOOOONG way from home!

PM me your address if you like, maybe we can get you a better deal.
Click to expand...

Thanks dtFeld.
NZ Post has a US delivery forwarding address, so I've used them, but thank you for your kind offer.
 
Catching up on this thread today, does anyone know why caterpillar switched from a coolant cooled after cooler to a raw water one in the 3126? I would think the coolant one would have been more efficient and less prone to clogging.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Catching up on this thread today, does anyone know why caterpillar switched from a coolant cooled after cooler to a raw water one in the 3126? I would think the coolant one would have been more efficient and less prone to clogging.
Click to expand...

ive read to push the HP higher…cooler charge air using seawater vscoolant. That could be urban legend though
 
As I see it :

3116 was coolant cooled

3126 was seawater cooled to achieve the 420 HP hp

BEST !

RWS
 
Just pulled my aftercoolers. Both of them are coated in oil.

Had them off and cleaned 5 years ago and don’t remember them being this bad. Any input on what could be causing this?
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Just pulled my aftercoolers. Both of them are coated in oil.

Had them off and cleaned 5 years ago and don’t remember them being this bad. Any input on what could be causing this?
Click to expand...
Clean the oil separator and make sure it is clear to return the oil to the engine. If that doesn't work get the engine blowby checked out. The only other thing is if the turbocharger oil return is plugged or the bearing seal has failed and oil is getting into the compressor side of things. Pull the air filter off and see if there is excessive oil inside of the air filter assembly and compressor.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Just pulled my aftercoolers. Both of them are coated in oil.

Had them off and cleaned 5 years ago and don’t remember them being this bad. Any input on what could be causing this?
Click to expand...
What oil are you running?
 
ttmott said:
Clean the oil separator and make sure it is clear to return the oil to the engine. If that doesn't work get the engine blowby checked out. The only other thing is if the turbocharger oil return is plugged or the bearing seal has failed and oil is getting into the compressor side of things. Pull the air filter off and see if there is excessive oil inside of the air filter assembly and compressor.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the quick response. I will look into those suggestions.
 
also, check for "dips" in the return oil line which may allow normal blow-by oils to collect.

I noticed a dramatic drop in oil usage when I changed over to Rotella 40 straight wt oil. (Florida)

BEST !

RWS
 
so I thought maybe I would change my 3116 air filters. They are the type with a foam outer, not the air separator types. I pulled one off to look at it mainly, and all it is is foam over a mesh, is that all they are? or is there an inner element that I just don't have cos someone removed it?
 
Pgeee said:
so I thought maybe I would change my 3116 air filters. They are the type with a foam outer, not the air separator types. I pulled one off to look at it mainly, and all it is is foam over a mesh, is that all they are? or is there an inner element that I just don't have cos someone removed it?
Click to expand...

I replaced mine recently.
Order cat part number 7W5040.
They are the entire filter; metal mesh, seal and foam outer.

Greg
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Thank you for the quick response. I will look into those suggestions.
Click to expand...

While you are at it I would pull the Engine Crankcase Breather and wash it out in solvent (because its easy to do). They can become clogged over time and create excessive crankcase pressure...oil then needs to escape somewhere...probably out the crankshaft seal, but hey, worth doing anyway.

This is a regular maintenance item recommended by Cat.
 
Drained and replaced the coolant yesterday on one of my 3116 engines.
There's a couple of good posts on the subject from Dr Webster and others, which I followed.

Here's my n-step process for the 3116 TA PORT ENGINE coolant replacement.
DISCLAIMER: The material and information provided in the following explanation is for general information purposes only. You should not rely solely on this information, and follow Caterpillar maintenance guidelines for all maintenance work, including safety recommendations.

Items:
Drain Instructions:
  1. Make sure engine is cold and loosen the cooling system filler cap (the radiator style cap on the engine) - don't remove this yet, just loosen to a "floppy" state. This provides a small amount of suction so the coolant doesn't explode out of the drain plug when removed.
  2. As I was changing the port engine, capturing the old coolant is not particularly easy...maybe there is a better way than I did it. The drain is located at the bottom of the u-shaped pipe leading down from the heat exchanger & coolant tank. Don't worry, despite this pipe (roughly 2" dia) coming from the heat exchanger, the coolant tank feeds into the side at the top and the drain at the bottom is all coolant. No sea water comes out here, so removing the drain plug is safe.
  3. Loosen off and remove the drain plug making sure to retain the rubber o-ring on the drain plug as you remove it. The coolant (pink/red color for ELC) is going to drain into the channel running to the forward engine-room bilge. Release enough coolant to vacuum up, but not enough to trigger the bilge pump, otherwise it will dump coolant in the marina. Iterate releasing, vacuuming and emptying vac into empty 18L buckets. Finally remove the coolant tank cap completely (press down to release the final stage to remove).
  4. Once all coolant is removed, Cat recommends a water flushing process, however, I took Franks advice to not do this, as water from the tap probably has more contaminants (e.g. calcium) than the coolant that was just washed through.
  5. Return the drain plug and tighten in place but don't over tighten as the o-ring will be crushed.
Fill Instructions:
  1. Feed the funnel into the coolant tank and cable-tie the handle to the engine room stairs in a position that allows easy pouring of new coolant.
  2. Do not try to lift the 18L (4gal) coolant to pour into the funnel. Instead pour a manageable amount into the plastic bucket and pour this (slowly) into the funnel. Cat recommends filling at a rate of no more than 5gal per minute (good luck if you can fill that fast).
  3. After I emptied 1 x 18L, I removed the lid on the empty Cat coolant bucket and poured half the contents from the full container into the empty container (9L), which worked out perfectly for the total +/-.
  4. Once the coolant tank is full, do your usual start checks and then start the engine in neutral gear (with the coolant tank cap removed). Check running engine exhaust mixed cooling water is being expelled externally (I always do this).
  5. At this point Cat recommends increasing engine RPM to 1500 rpm for 1 minute in order to purge air from the cavities of the engine block. Stop the engine following this procedure and pour more ELC into the coolant tank to top off.
  6. Check the filler cap gasket is in good working order and replace the filler cap. You can follow Cat's guidance on pressure testing the cap. I didn't do this as I considered the cap in good working order.
  7. Once the engine is cool, fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD FULL level. At time of writing I haven't done this step as I haven't yet worked out how to pour coolant into the recovery tank given the confined head room. Perhaps a small watering can or pump?
Hopefully this helps you if you are replacing your coolant.
Expertise required is fairly low (easy) in my opinion, but its a messy job.

-Magic
 
Cat 3116 TA Starboard engine water pump belt, cat part #0366775...we are NOT friends!
Does anyone have advice on how to get a new water pump belt on the starboard engine?

For some reason the port engine is super easy, but the starboard engine must have slightly different specs and the new belt cannot be maneuvered into place, even with the tensioner completely removed.

I know I could crank the engine to force it on (like a bike chain), but this seems extreme.

Thanks

-Magic
 
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