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Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by DjDaoust, Oct 18, 2016.
Exactly what I want. Where did you get them from?
Thank you Frank, your educated responses are much appreciated. So far, we mostly anchor in 10ft, sandy bottom. I will look into the Fortress. It appears to be an easy swap.
The fortress is one of the few anchors that will fit or nest in the bow pulpit ea Ray used on the 44/45EB and 450DA's. It fits well and will be tight, but the Fortress will, from time to time, enter at an angle and nest crooked. The solution is to drop the anchor a foot or so.....well before the Good begins to free drop.....and pull it back in place.
I found my FX-37 at Skipper Bud's (listed on eBay) and bought it for about 1/2 price.
I also have a pair of FX-11's we use for stern anchors. One holds the boat in a 40 mph wind (no chain and 1/2" line), but I carry 2 beacuse we anchor in crowded conditions and sometimes need to prevent the boat from any movement when someone anchors in my hip pocket.....at least it sometimes feels like they are that close. The great thing about the FX-11's with no chain is how easily and quickly you can walk the stern anchor out to a beach or sandbar.
Has anyone else replaced the old gaskets on the portholes, and if so, what part did you use? The nice lady in Pompanette customer service suggested we have the "classis" or the "flagship" series of portholes. Can any confirm the part number for the gasket?
You can order from Pompanette part #P100-04-retro. Gasket and screen kit $33 each.
Looking for prop advice. I have a '97 with 3126 cats. I had the props pulled because I hadn't done it in the 10 years I've had the boat. Was surprised to find one was badly repaired prior to owing the boat. Just want to avoid obvious mistakes (I am a master of those...) should I just replace them as they are dated 12/2006 rather than attempt a repair?
I think your prop shop will be able to tell you much better. I wouldn’t think they need to be replaced, most nibral props can be repaired. Now if you replace them you would have a spare set and there is always something to say about that.
I still have my original props on the boat. They are off every 3 years or so and taken into the prop shop unless there is known issue or strike of something in the water.
I was losing some coolant at the end of the season. We believed it was the exhaust manifold. I wasn’t getting coolant in oil or visa versa. Well the manifold pressure tests fine. So that leaves the head or head gasket. Anything else I should be looking at?
We have a 1997 450DA with the galley to port. Wondering if anyone has replaced their mic4owave with a convection microwave. I am having difficulty finding a unit narrow and short enough to fit in the current space.
I just started looking at the same thing... this looked good until I saw the back side pictures. Might fit if willing to modify back of cabinet.
Anybody have the model number or overall dimensions of the original Panasonic or the cabinet dimensions?
Be very careful with the idea of adding a convection microwave. That area on the 450DA has very poor ventilation. A convection oven generates a lot of heat. You might have a do-over depending upon the oven you choose due to blowing thermal fuses in the convection oven. We don't do a lot of cooking on our boat, but we have a large toaster oven we put on the cooktop for oven dutues. When not in use, it lives out of the way in the floor hatch in the salon.
Frank, I am also aware and concerned about the ventilation and the small opening in the 450 current microwave location (approx. 20 inches wide AND 11 1/2 inches tall). we currently use a separate toaster/convection oven as well which we store in the rear salon floor in front of the shower sump as well. Just looking at consolidating equipment and hoping someone has found a unit which would work in the current opening. I do not want to redo cabinetry now or with a potential heat/fire issue.
Always a concern, would have to have a bult in rating/capability for sure.
Has anyone replaced the water heater? Looks like a chore to get it out. Is there anything new taking the place of the Atwood 11 gal heater on newer boats? I have a very small amount of water seeping out under the heater-not sure it's leaking but don't know where else it could be coming from. All hose connections are tight.
Following as I'm sure I'll be here someday...
Shouldn’t be a big deal if you remove the stbd exhaust tube from the front and side of the engine then disconnect the water heater forward and across in front of the engine then aft to the engine hatch, up and out.
The change I would make is to go with a stainless steel unit rather than the OEM painted steel version.
Thanks Frank. That's the only place I see that it can be removed. I think Atwood makes a stainless model although I haven't found it as yet.