Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by DjDaoust, Oct 18, 2016.
What was your solution....?
Flounder Pounder Marine. I ordered all new gauges and panels
I’m going to put my 450 up for sale this winter. I hate to after all the work we have put in to it but we need better sleeping accommodations for our kids. I would really find a 500/510 Sundancer with the 3 room layout.
Greetings all, can anyone suggest a source for the plastic grill that covers the docking light holes in the port side near the bow....? Thanks
Sorry, I don't have the docking light option... If you have a picture I poke around some of my sources for you ?
Thanks Mark.....I'm not certain what the holes achieve as I don't have the docking lights. Maybe for the air horns....???
The marina in Florida has found a source for this same grill made from stainless steel. They were made by AFI Marine, part no. is 11066. I Googled it, and Amazon sell it.
Welcome MARK, view your account information! MY FISHERIES
How To's |Order Status| About Us
SHOP BY DEPARTMENT
Home > Marine Safety Equipment > Boat Horns & Bells > Stainless Steel Grill for AFI Concealed Dual Trumpet Air Horn
Write a Review
Availability: Special Order Only
Item ID AFI 11066
View Additional Associated Part Numbers
Unit of Measure
Horn cover available from Amazon @ $22.
AFI Marine 11066 Stainless Steel Grill for 11058 Marine Concealed Dual Trumpet Below Deck Air Horn
Thank you all for you assistance...grill ordered and winging its way to New Zealand....
Speaking of vent covers, does anyone have a source for the two defogger vent covers in the cockpit? They're aproximately 4" in diameter for a 2 7/8" opening in the dash and the panel adjacent to the helm. Preferably stainless steel, preferably something that can be controlled for air volume?
I'll check my receipts... I replaced mine 10 years ago.
Sorry, I can't locate a receipt for them... If you want to replace your 5" cover plates on the inside of the radar arch then here you go... https://bernardengraving.com/store-2/products/bernard-cover-plates/ $5.89 each.
Has anyone replaced their cup holders with lighted stainless steel?
If you are going to replace the now yellow cover plates, do yourself a favor and prrime then spray them with an acrylic emamel before you install them. You will never have to worry about them yellowing again.
Yes, I have replaced my cup holders with stainless steel. They were expensive and a bit more work than I anticipated, but it was worth the effort. I have no part numbers or sources for them........I got the parts guy at the dealer to order them for me and I don't know if he got them with a stock order from Sea Ray or from one of his distributors.
Question for frank, in an earlier post you mentioned switching to a fortress anchor. Do you have the "good marine windlass" with all rode setup? If so, what has been the results of using the fortress over the heavier fluke anchor that came with the boat? I have used fortress anchors on smaller boats over the years, but have always used 3-6 ft of 3/8" chain to help set the anchors. We have a 440 express bridge and would like a bit more confidence in the anchor setup. A 44lb mantis with 2 ft of chain is an option I have looked into as well. Changing out the windlass is not a geat option for many reasons. Most searays from this era face this same issue.
Yes, I have the Good CFD all rode windlass and a Fortress FX-37 aluminum anchor. In my situation, shallow water, soft sand bottom, this arrangement is perfect. Part of the design of the Fortress is that it is built to set itself once it hits the bottom. The more pressure or load you put on the rode when setting the anchor, the deeper it goes into the bottom. It isn't the weight of the anchor that holds the boat; it is the design and the fact that t he anchor submerges itself. They always enter straight and self right to keep one ear from skating along the bottom like a heavier Danforth will do. In the 6-7 years we've had the Fortress it has only failed to set twice when it hit on top of clumps of dead sea grass. I do not need or want chain on the anchor rode......I just don't need it because we anchor in shallow water and I can let out plenty of scope. As long as the scope is 7:1 or greater; a Fortress holds like it is hooked to the backbone of the earth.
There is a "trick" to the Good windlass as well. I send my windlass to Good periodically to have it cleaned, adjusted and checked. The first time, I did Good recomended changing to a new 4-pole motor and an improved gear set. It was well owrth the money......the 4-pole motor and new gear ratio gives you faster line take up and a much stronger pull. They have also changed the solenoid pack from open, exposed solenoids to potted or epoxy sealed relays and given the location on the boat, this is a much better arrangement.
Hope that helps............