OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

Had the same problem

found bilge pump to be airbound

I resolved the problem in an unconventional way, let me see if I can find the link

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
Had the same problem

found bilge pump to be airbound

I resolved the problem in an unconventional way, let me see if I can find the link

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
You're right!

I push a hose in at the through hull and water poured into the bilge (after I removed the Whale non-return valve - Amazon.com: Whale LV1215 Non-Return Inline Valve, for Use with 1-Inch and 1 ½-Inch Diameter Pipes, Nitrile® Construction : Everything Else)

Essentially there wasn't enough water in the bilge for the pump to build pressure before becoming "airbound". I set the hose going in the bilge and filled it up some more, and the system worked as it should. Cleared the final water with a wet/dry vacuum and fully dried the area.

Greg
 
I have the original B&G instruments at the helm and my temperature sensor has gone kuput. It's reading 80° and Puget Sound is 56° on a good day. Does anyone know of a reset or adjustment? I'm calling them on Monday, but thought I would throw it out here and see.
 
Mark,

I discovered that the new owners of B&G don't support the old Network series of instruments. I was able to get my VHF repaired and reset to new specs about 5 years ago, but on a second go-round in 2021, the mother board needed to be replaced and there was no support for parts and I had to replace the VHF with an ICOM that fit the panel.

This is who I used:

https://www.wheelhouse.us

The phone number I had for them was 954-229-0208, but I note on the above website th at the number has apparently changed.

I had an additional complete set of B&G network instruments but the new owner of my 450DA wanted them with the boat. He is working in Venice, Italy until the end of the year so I cannot contact him until then. As an option B&G instruments occasionally show up on eBay.


Frank
 
fwebster said:
Mark,

I discovered that the new owners of B&G don't support the old Network series of instruments. I was able to get my VHF repaired and reset to new specs about 5 years ago, but on a second go-round in 2021, the mother board needed to be replaced and there was no support for parts and I had to replace the VHF with an ICOM that fit the panel.

This is who I used:

https://www.wheelhouse.us

The phone number I had for them was 954-229-0208, but I note on the above website th at the number has apparently changed.

I had an additional complete set of B&G network instruments but the new owner of my 450DA wanted them with the boat. He is working in Venice, Italy until the end of the year so I cannot contact him until then. As an option B&G instruments occasionally show up on eBay.


Frank
Click to expand...

Thank you Frank...
 
Since I picked up my boat it list to port about 2inches. The previous owner had it since 2000, unfortunately he passed on. His wife said its been like that for years and they would add almost 1/4 of fuel to starboard. I been trying to figure out what could cause it. I just assumed that the fridge, freezer and cockpit ice maker. were the culprit. I recall the broker who was familiar with the boat said the port fuel tank was replaced.
I opened up the tank and removed the sending unit. the gauge said i was a tad over E. I dropped a tape measure in and found I had 9 inches of fuel. I measured from the top of the tank to bottom it was around 31inches. when i measured the float. the longest it can read extended is 26. I'm still in shock that this was the problem for years. The previous owner was in his late 70's and the marina did all the work. you think that would be the first thing they would check. I always had work case scenario in my head. like trapped water in a compartment somewhere. So now i'm shopping for a fuel sender.
 
Magic said:
AC Perko sea water strainer clean.
You all have probably done this a lot in the past but this is new for me. Decided the sea strainer needed cleaning for the air conditioning.
1. Looks like it hasn't been cleaned in 20 years
View attachment 132857
2. The older style takes a cork gasket 493-DP5-99M
Amazon.com: Perko 0493DP599M Spare Gasket Kit for 1/2" and 3/4" Intake Water Strainer - Cork : Automotive
View attachment 132858
3. clean the strainer and bowl with a toothbrush (could have pulled this apart as well but it seemed pointless). remove the drain plug at the bottom and flush all the crud out.
View attachment 132859
4. Put the lid back with new cork
View attachment 132860
5. Look at all the crud that came out. Also I found the bilge line is potentially blocked after the point marked by the red arrow pointing up.
Any ideas on techniques to unblock this - the line is quite long going back past the starboard engine to the stern exit point.
View attachment 132861
Click to expand...


Greg……& other 450DA owners with Perklop A/C and Generator strainers.

You have already changed the Perko strainer gaskets to the OEM style cork replacement. I found that the cork gaskets have a relatively short life span because they are compressible. I was getting about 12-18 months out of a set of cork replacements, and found that Perko also has a rubber replacement gasket for the strainer lids and ordered them thru our marina's service department in Panama City Beach FL. I think we had to order a complete rebuild kit to get them but they are a permanent and will save you replacing gaskets regularly as well as gribbling sea water down your A/C and Generator strainers and keepinh your bilge wet until you replace the cork gaskets. I had the same rubber gaskets for the last 15 years we owned our 450DA.
 
E.Rice said:
Anyone replace the anti-siphon valves on the tanks - would you have a partno? Ordered new mechanical lift pump and going to replace this valve also ruling out everything, I do not have enough fuel pressure for the Denso injection pump that needs 20-25 psi. Also got the Racor gauges to see if I am pulling a vacuum.
Click to expand...
Wanted to update, after weeks and having to rebuild the Denso injection pump, replacing mechanical lift pump and starter solenoid. The main issue which the mechanic and I found is that the stbd fuel supply line feeding the fuel selector valves is allowing air into the line. Move both engines to Port tank and they run great no issue as soon as you move either over to the STBD tank racors bubble like crazy and engine shortly dies and has to be re-primed. This has been more than likely a problem that has been there and just getting worst, now to chase down the loose fittings behind the panel this next week.
 
E.Rice said:
Wanted to update, after weeks and having to rebuild the Denso injection pump, replacing mechanical lift pump and starter solenoid. The main issue which the mechanic and I found is that the stbd fuel supply line feeding the fuel selector valves is allowing air into the line. Move both engines to Port tank and they run great no issue as soon as you move either over to the STBD tank racors bubble like crazy and engine shortly dies and has to be re-primed. This has been more than likely a problem that has been there and just getting worst, now to chase down the loose fittings behind the panel this next week.
Click to expand...
Need input tired of hiring mechanics wife and kid out of town next week determined to figure out the old issue that has resurfaced, stbd will not go over 1600-1700 rpm’s and at wot rolling coal. I know the fuel side is good now, now to dive into the air side. I pulled and cleaned aftercooler throughly per Tony’s specs and reinstalled 2mos ago. It was 60% blocked. Thought for sure that was it … nope. I guess I will go over all clamps and check hoses. Next is to pull exhaust elbow again and check charge side of the turbo. Any other ideas, please let me know. Gut feeling turbo is hanging up recently pulled exhaust side and cleaned and reinstalled spinning freely a month ago but now I think it’s hanging again.
 
not a Cummins, but had a similar issue with my port CAT 3126 recently.

Long, LONG story short, clamp on the BOOST side, between the turbo and aftercooler had slipped off the hose.

Thing was - you couldn't see it as it was hiding, OUT OF SIGHT between the turbo and the engine.

MILEY CAT had serviced/installed the aftercoolers in June.

I was underway when this happened, changed out the Racors, the last chance filter, loosened fuel cap, swapped tanks, did it ALL.

I suspected a cracked injector cup.

MILEY CAT came to the house, set up the clear tube in the return fuel line found NO AIR BUBBLES, checked turbo for spin, seemed OK, wheel was clean, ran engine at dock, all CAT gauges normal, found tiny internal leak in the priming pump - replaced pump, didn't solve the problem.

Took boat for sea trial with CAT tech in the engine room.

As soon as boost came up the problem showed itself.

MILEY CAT CHARGED ME FOR THE PRIMING PUMP which needed to be replaced anyway. (I ordered another for the stbd engine, as these have a history of failure at this age.

MILEY CAT Invoice:

Owner reported low rpm on port engine. Traveled to vessel. Clear line was installed to fuel return to check for air bubbles. No bubbles were present. The air filter and exhaust hose were removed, and the turbo exhaust wheel was inspected with borescope - all good. A vacuum gauge was installed on the racor, and boost pressure gauges were installed to both port and starboard engines for comparison purposes. Vessel was taken to open water with owner at helm. At 1800 rpms, the port engine boost pressure was 5 lbs, while the starboard boost pressure was 10 lbs. Air was felt coming from the boost hose from the turbo inlet to the aftercooler, and the hose and hose clamp were found out of position, allowing a boost leak. The hose and clamp were repositioned and secured on the turbo housing. Low rpm issue was resolved. While onboard, it was noted that the port engine fuel hand priming pump was leaking. A new pump and valve assembly was installed, and at owner's request, a second pump would be ordered. One secondary fuel filter was left onboard at owner's request. (No charge for labor, travel time, or mileage)


anyhow, perhaps you have a similar problem on the boost side.

I CAN'T SAY ENOUGH GOOD THINGS ABOUT MILEY CAT MARINE DIESEL SERVICE IN FT MYERS, FL

BEST,

RWS
 
Last edited:
Maybe A Dancer said:
not a Cummins, but had a similar issue with my port CAT 3126 recently.

Long, LONG story short, clamp on the BOOST side, between the turbo and aftercooler had slipped off the hose.

Thing was - you couldn't see it as it was hiding, OUT OF SIGHT between the turbo and the engine.

MILEY CAT had serviced/installed the aftercoolers in June.

I was underway when this happened, changed out the Racors, the last chance filter, loosened fuel cap, swapped tanks, did it ALL.

I suspected a cracked injector cup.

MILEY CAT came to the house, set up the clear tube in the return fuel line found NO AIR BUBBLES, checked turbo for spin, seemed OK, wheel was clean, ran engine at dock, all CAT gauges normal, found tiny internal leak in the priming pump - replaced pump, didn't solve the problem.

Took boat for sea trial with CAT tech in the engine room.

As soon as boost came up the problem showed itself.

MILEY CAT CHARGED ME FOR THE PRIMING PUMP which needed to be replaced anyway. (I ordered another for the stbd engine, as these have a history of failure at this age.

MILEY CAT Invoice:

Owner reported low rpm on port engine. Traveled to vessel. Clear line was installed to fuel return to check for air bubbles. No bubbles were present. The air filter and exhaust hose were removed, and the turbo exhaust wheel was inspected with borescope - all good. A vacuum gauge was installed on the racor, and boost pressure gauges were installed to both port and starboard engines for comparison purposes. Vessel was taken to open water with owner at helm. At 1800 rpms, the port engine boost pressure was 5 lbs, while the starboard boost pressure was 10 lbs. Air was felt coming from the boost hose from the turbo inlet to the aftercooler, and the hose and hose clamp were found out of position, allowing a boost leak. The hose and clamp were repositioned and secured on the turbo housing. Low rpm issue was resolved. While onboard, it was noted that the port engine fuel hand priming pump was leaking. A new pump and valve assembly was installed, and at owner's request, a second pump would be ordered. One secondary fuel filter was left onboard at owner's request. (No charge for labor, travel time, or mileage)


anyhow, perhaps you have a similar problem on the boost side.

I CAN'T SAY ENOUGH GOOD THINGS ABOUT MILEY CAT MARINE DIESEL SERVICE IN FT MYERS, FL

BEST,

RWS
Click to expand...
They sound very thorough, here just getting someone competent down to the boat is a chore. I would buy you a case of beer if that is my problem I will get down there and thoroughly go over the hoses and clamps. Maybe sweet talk my buddy to put some boost gauges on the engines also like to see what is going on there for sure.
 
Talking bout strainers. Anyone know what this is??
35C940F8-BD25-4BF0-84EB-D5281D42FFA7.jpeg
 
756500.jpg


Freshwater flush tee
 
Only put one on the A/C or the generator strainer. Those things cannot flow anywhere near enough water to cool a Caterpillar diesel unless they are connected to a fire hose.
 
fwebster said:
Only put one on the A/C or the generator strainer. Those things cannot flow anywhere near enough water to cool a Caterpillar diesel unless they are connected to a fire hose.
Click to expand...
What about running a small water maker off the AC strainer?
 
Last edited:
fwebster said:
Only put one on the A/C or the generator strainer. Those things cannot flow anywhere near enough water to cool a Caterpillar diesel unless they are connected to a fire hose.
Click to expand...


So I found the other part on the boat.
Ill probably just use it to winterize the boat.
 
E.Rice said:
They sound very thorough, here just getting someone competent down to the boat is a chore. I would buy you a case of beer if that is my problem I will get down there and thoroughly go over the hoses and clamps. Maybe sweet talk my buddy to put some boost gauges on the engines also like to see what is going on there for sure.
Click to expand...
Pulled exhaust elbow and filter side of turbo its locked up completely, shipped off today to Turbo Dave in FL. Complete rebuild $1,500. I didn't have salt water intrusion, maybe sitting up over the years got to it -will know more once Dave dives into it.
turbo1.jpg turbo2.jpg turbo3.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Turbo.jpg
    Turbo.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 81
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,153
Messages
1,427,340
Members
61,060
Latest member
Danileo
Back
Top