Sans Souci
Member
It is behind the same panel lights are on....
Official 400EC thread
- Thread starter Air O'Nautical
- Start date
Sans Souci
Member
Excellent transformation. i would like to upgrade/update my 1997 dash...What was your final cost and hours to complete.
Hello, sir -
We're finishing out our second summer with our '93, and the progressively, slowly less-hot-stove top finally isn't hot at all.
Searched the whole thread, and this is the only reference I can find to replacing the stove, back in 2019. Would you mind to share what make and model you found to replace your original? Thanks! - Todd
jonsm114
Active Member
As I recall, total cost for 2-FOX gateways and oil senders, NMEA 2000 backbone, 2- non mapping Garmin Displays, switch panels fabricated locally by a plastics fabricator, and switches around $3500 all in. Took around 6 to 8 days casually working, way less than 2 weeks.
In hindsight, I should have made this an open inquiry:
Anyone with any insight on replacing the stovetop, please throw your two cents into the mix, it'd be much appreciated.
Sans Souci
Member
Great price ... thank you for the feed back
Sans Souci
Member
Has anyone replaced the speed/temp transducer for the tridata ray marine display. I have a 97 express, replaced the old i40 (no direct replacement ), so upgraded to the i50. All worked fine for two seasons, till this past weekend. Depth still functioning correctly, separate transducer , the temp/speed transducer (port side) not working. It appears to be easily replaced by unscrewing the old and replacing it with a new transducer. Having issues with the p/n for the transducer? Any help with the p/n (part number) and replacement procedure will be appreciated. thanks in advance....
Eluther3
Active Member
- Mar 17, 2019
- 290
- Boat Info
- 1992 Searay 400 EC
- Engines
- Mercruiser
Eluther3
Active Member
- Mar 17, 2019
- 290
- Boat Info
- 1992 Searay 400 EC
- Engines
- Mercruiser
unfortunately I can't. My wife found the stove at a Sears outlet store. She happened to find one that came close and I had to do some trimming and wiring, but we got it to work. Would give you the model info, but the boat is in the shop and I don't have access to it.
jonsm114
Active Member
Joey Mahon
New Member
I would like to move my anchor light as well, but question if it interferes with the radar performance. Was there any effect on the display pattern?
I wish I had a good answer for you, but the original radar installation was removed by a previous owner. Our radar arch doesn't have anything on it other than a couple of set-screws where the radar assembly *used* to be.
I simply removed the light bracket from the windshield (I say simply...nothing ever goes simply) and rerouted the wiring back around the top of the windshield, into the radar arch, and drilled a small hole to mount the light.
Made a world of difference for visibility while driving at night.
Maybe someone here can give you a better perspective, but I've seen anchor light-poles that are contoured to mount around the radar hardware. Good luck!
Nick Hahn
Member
Planning to move mine as well as part of a new radar installation - will add it to the back of the radar mount. How did you fill the old holes from the old mount? I'd like to get rid of the mount once the new light is in place, but am not sure how to fill those holes.
Fill the holes in the top of the windshield frame? I clipped off the ends of the original screws with a small bolt cutter (didn't want any pointy things in there with the wiring). Screwed them back in the holes where the bracket used to be. Used a little epoxy around them to seal out water, and make certain they stayed put.
Maybe not the most elegant, but functional. And I've never looked at it again.
Joey Mahon
New Member
Great idea for the screw holes! Did you re-use the original light pole? I'm leaning toward a new one, maybe LED. The mount on the original is made for the sloping windshield and I don't care for the configuration anyway...Fill the holes in the top of the windshield frame? I clipped off the ends of the original screws with a small bolt cutter (didn't want any pointy things in there with the wiring). Screwed them back in the holes where the bracket used to be. Used a little epoxy around them to seal out water, and make certain they stayed put.
Maybe not the most elegant, but functional. And I've never looked at it again.
Joey Mahon
New Member
Rubber windshields are harder to see thru, but they don't break as easily! LOL Thanks for your help!
The original was
The original assembly was not functional, wires had corroded and broken. I ordered a new, fairly inexpensive LED with, I think, about 14" mast to replace it. It was the perfect height to blind me when running at night. Whatever engineer who thought putting the light on the windshield was a good idea...
Anyway, did the aforementioned relocation, and the new light I'd purchased had a hinged base to accommodate the different mounting angle.
Easy peezy, lemon squeezy.
Nick Hahn
Member
So - previous owner did a major hack job on the dash to install an chart plotter.
Any ideas of how to repair this mess?
Plan to replace the Raytheon radar and old chart plotter with a couple of 8" garmins. Would like a 12" but it won't fit, unless (maybe) I remove the padded trim around the old raytheon - will still have a mess with the hole below though. . .
Any ideas of how to repair this mess?
Plan to replace the Raytheon radar and old chart plotter with a couple of 8" garmins. Would like a 12" but it won't fit, unless (maybe) I remove the padded trim around the old raytheon - will still have a mess with the hole below though. . .
Joey Mahon
New Member
check out post #1330
Nick Hahn
Member
Yes that turned out awesome. But didn't have the cream fiber glass outline cut up.