Official 400EC thread

Olysan said:
Yes, but...it all depends on your engine package. I have 7.4MPI's and Fox Marine makes a box that talks directly to the ECM for that engine. It converts the engine data to NMEA 2000 and makes it available to NMEA based displays. There are also devices available for non ECM engines that convert analog signals to NMEA 2000. These are really just alternatives to your existing analog gauges since that's the only data available on the non ECM engines. I'm not 100% sure but I think that any of the Fuel injected engine packages are computer controlled while the carb'd engines are not.
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That's what I was afraid of. I was hoping to supplement the info I'm getting from the analogs. While I don't totally trust my gauges, I'm probably better off just replacing them.
 
Eluther3 said:
One of the things on my to-do list is to replace the switches on the instrument panel with some lighted rocker switches. I am constantly having to use a flashlight when I am on the water a night, just to see the switches. Has anyone else done this mod? Any advice?
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An inexpensive fix to your problem, because the original illiminated strips from Sea Ray are expensive, if you can find them, is to buy some in expensive short LED lights strips. I zip tied them to the wires behind the panel in stratigic locations so all the engraved text on panel
could be illiminated, and then tied them all into the dimmer switch. Works like a charm and is a fraction of the cost of replacing switches, which are probably all functioning properly on your boat.
 
GregM said:
An inexpensive fix to your problem, because the original illiminated strips from Sea Ray are expensive, if you can find them, is to buy some in expensive short LED lights strips. I zip tied them to the wires behind the panel in stratigic locations so all the engraved text on panel
could be illiminated, and then tied them all into the dimmer switch. Works like a charm and is a fraction of the cost of replacing switches, which are probably all functioning properly on your boat.
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This is a great idea! Do you remember what the voltage is on that light circuit? For some reason I'm thinking it's something other that 12VDC.
 
GregM said:
An inexpensive fix to your problem, because the original illiminated strips from Sea Ray are expensive, if you can find them, is to buy some in expensive short LED lights strips. I zip tied them to the wires behind the panel in stratigic locations so all the engraved text on panel
could be illiminated, and then tied them all into the dimmer switch. Works like a charm and is a fraction of the cost of replacing switches, which are probably all functioning properly on your boat.
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I love that idea! I like the look of the rocker switches so I still may change it out, but this is a great alternative.
 
From what I remember there is a small 1" sq. voltage inverter that I think conversts the 12VDC to an AC voltage, I don't remember the AC voltage. I cut that out and wired little rectangular LED lights directly to the dimmer switch on dash and stratigically placed them behind the rocker switches to get an even light intensity. The LED's can now be adjusted with dimmer switch, there were very bright, almost too bright at night so the dimmer was quite useful.
 

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Purchased a 97 400ec this past July and after correcting previous owners issues, I'm ready to move on to fixing wear and tear issues. The first is replacing the windshield vent gasket, badly worn. Anybody know where it can be purchased:
2) replacing foam gasket filler around windshield , any ideas where to buy the filler material?
3) upgraded stereo to Fusion head unit, JL amp and JL speakers for cockpit, great sound. Now need to replace cabin speakers, Ceiling speakers are straight forward to replace (panel pops out very easily), however having some difficulties removing screen covers in forward stare room, any ideas?

thanks
 
OK, I need the wisdom of the crowd

Was working on the forward cabin lighting on my 92 400 EC and ran into a mystery. There is a double light switch on the port side of the front cabin. The top switch turns on the lights directly in front of the mirrored closet doors. However, on my boat the bottom switch appears to do nothing. I pulled the switch and it is definitely wired to something, but I suspec the PO did some type of rewiring.

Can anyone tell me what the bottom switch in the forward cabin is supposed to turn off an on?
 
Eluther3 said:
OK, I need the wisdom of the crowd

Was working on the forward cabin lighting on my 92 400 EC and ran into a mystery. There is a double light switch on the port side of the front cabin. The top switch turns on the lights directly in front of the mirrored closet doors. However, on my boat the bottom switch appears to do nothing. I pulled the switch and it is definitely wired to something, but I suspec the PO did some type of rewiring.

Can anyone tell me what the bottom switch in the forward cabin is supposed to turn off an on?
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Has anyone replaced the starboard water heater WITHOUT pulling the engine? I think I know the answer but just in case I am missing something I thought I'd ask before I cut a big hole in the starboard side hull.....LOL!
 
GregM said:
Has anyone replaced the starboard water heater WITHOUT pulling the engine? I think I know the answer but just in case I am missing something I thought I'd ask before I cut a big hole in the starboard side hull.....LOL!
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It can come out without pulling the engine. It was done on my boat. Comes out at the front of the motor. Removing stbd manifold and rise could help too.
 
Harold,
I find that incredible, not that I don't believe it. I was looking at that as the way to go and it just didnt seem to be possible. It only took me an hour to disconnect and remove my port engine a few years ago and 1.5 to install and have it running which I think would be easier than removing manifold etc. Was your water heater the original square SeaRay or something else?
 
As crazy as it sounds.....I’d also recommend pulling the engine and transmission to get the water heater out. It’s not that tough.
 
New Question regarding cockpit refrigerator:
We have a 1998 400 DA. Came equipped with standard 120VAC icemaker in the cockpit. I want to change it out to a two-way (120VAC/12VDC) refrigerator (which was an upgrade option for this boat when new). I have checked behind the existing ice maker and I do not see any 12VDC source pre-wired. My question is: Rather than installing a new breaker and running a new 12VDC circuit to this location can I piggyback off of 12VDC source that feeds our main refer. in the galley. The existing 12V breaker is 15A and wire size appears to be either 10 or 12G. Both refers would / could be running at the same time on that one breaker. Current main cabin refer. nameplate states that it draws 5.4A at 12V., so I would think the 2nd one in the cockpit would be no more than that, and hopefully less because it is about 1/2 the size. But even if it does draw 5A, that is a total max. load from both refs. of about 10-11 Amps at 12V on a 15A breaker so assuming / hoping it would be OK.
 
potis said:
New Question regarding cockpit refrigerator:
We have a 1998 400 DA. Came equipped with standard 120VAC icemaker in the cockpit. I want to change it out to a two-way (120VAC/12VDC) refrigerator (which was an upgrade option for this boat when new). I have checked behind the existing ice maker and I do not see any 12VDC source pre-wired. My question is: Rather than installing a new breaker and running a new 12VDC circuit to this location can I piggyback off of 12VDC source that feeds our main refer. in the galley. The existing 12V breaker is 15A and wire size appears to be either 10 or 12G. Both refers would / could be running at the same time on that one breaker. Current main cabin refer. nameplate states that it draws 5.4A at 12V., so I would think the 2nd one in the cockpit would be no more than that, and hopefully less because it is about 1/2 the size. But even if it does draw 5A, that is a total max. load from both refs. of about 10-11 Amps at 12V on a 15A breaker so assuming / hoping it would be OK.
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My bet is that the compressors draw more than that on start up as opposed to steady running draw so a separate breaker is probably the best route. I would want it on a separate breaker regardless.
 
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