Official 390DA Thread

Fred said:
I'm installing a cockpit tv in the factory location, starboard behind captain's chair. I had no problem splitting the coax behind the DC panel,but am now searching for a way to fish the cable through to the cockpit.
The access panel to the right of the drivers feet has many wire bundles going forward through three pipes, but a fish tape pushed through always ends up under the dash.
Any advice appreciated.
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This is actually a rather easy install. You'll need to remove the storage compartment to the right of the helm chair (4 white screws). You'll then be amazed at home much room is back there to get to the access port down to the cable (where you already split it) as well as back and up to where you will install the tv. At the DC panel... look all the way up. you'll see the same three pipes going through. I decided to drill a new hole instead of dealing with the wire bundles and pipes.
 
Gerry,
I assumed this would not be difficult but the space behind the DC panel is tight and I will have to look again with a lot more light. It seemed to me that the AC panel was blocking my view.
Maybe my head is just too large :grin:
Did you drill from the cabin up or the cockpit down?
Thanks,
Fred
 
Originally Posted by Escapade<br />
For more ideas. Here are some shots of the top I designed for our 390. I carried the arc of the hard top back w/ canvas profile. I did add stays in the back and copied the end profile w/ the S.S. stay. That took two tries to get clearance right for the hatch to clear w/ the top up. The height of the aft at the entrance way is 5'6&quot; clear. On the canvas I had shop added radius to all upper corners for a finished look. The glass is all 0.040&quot; Strataglass. I added Flap above the door and a Velcro strip on top of the door so you can seal the gap. Good luck w/ your top! Mike
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Would your canvas shop duplicate it in Captain's Blue? Or do you still have the patterns? Exactly what I want!

+1 on the above....could and would you be willing to share some patterns on this?

Tom


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Fred said:
Gerry,
I assumed this would not be difficult but the space behind the DC panel is tight and I will have to look again with a lot more light. It seemed to me that the AC panel was blocking my view.
Maybe my head is just too large :grin:
Did you drill from the cabin up or the cockpit down?
Thanks,
Fred
Click to expand...


Fred. the whole AC/DC panel swings down. No way to do this job with taking out only the DC panel. You'll have to take the door off first, then take out the two screws at the top of the AC panel, then the whole things swings down. It's on straps at the top, and a hinge at the bottom (you should be able to see the hinge at the bottom). Neat system IMO. You'll have great access to everything. I've done this so many times it now takes me about 90 seconds but be careful the first time.

Always drill from the cockpit down.

Good luck.. PM me if yo get stuck.
 
Thanks again.
I will work on it this weekend.
Really appreciate the help.
Fred
 
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Well, access to route the coax was excellent after learning about the large drop down panel. Sea Ray sure engineered that right.
I love this boat.
 
Tman- The canvas shop was Custom Transformations, 1 man shop guys name is Eric. I'll send him an e-mail and see if he saved patterns.Mike
 
Anyone have a good solution for spare props storage in the bilge? Pics?
 
almostenuff said:
Anyone have a good solution for spare props storage in the bilge? Pics?
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I was cleaning in my ER yeaterday and thought of this post. As I was cleaning way in the aft portion of the bilge I noticed an area behind the vucuflush system that could be a good area to store a spare prop. The same type of area exists aft of the generator. These areas would not be that easy to get to. However, spare props are not something you need to have access to very often. Actually, hopefully never.

Just a thought.
 
Anyone put an aftermarket sound enclosure on the Onan diesel genset for a 2005 390DA?

Tom


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I have 500 hours on my 05 390 with Cummins. I'm getting ready to do a 1200 mile trip and am wondering if I should have a Cummins tech do a 500 hr service. What all does that entail? What should I expect to pay? I replaced all filters and fluids at the end of last season (20 hrs since). I've never changed belts or had the heat exchangers/coolers cleaned (95% freshwater boat)
Thanks
 
I posted this to a different thread somehow....

I would take some spares on board. Extra racor filters, impellers (genny and mains and the tool to change them of course), secondary fuel filters, and belts.

I would have your impellers changed now which isn't a momental task at all. If the existing ones are still fine, use them as spares. Good piece of mind getting them changed however. Ensure all fluids (coolant, trans, mains, and genny) are at level.

Assuming you monitor historical performance, I'd be inclined to let her go until the 600hr check point, unless you see some basic performance parameter out of whack or trending as such. Your aftercooler should be in decent shape given the predominant fresh water use. At 600, get the full run down including all HX's and your aftercoolers. They will also do a valve lash check, injectors, and perhaps any ECM software upgrade.

Can you get Rated RPM at WOT? Are your temps, pressures, and fuel consumptions within spec?

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Great info. Yes, everything is in spec. One tiny concern. At 1150 RPMS (slow cruise), my temps run exact 172 each. Then, at high cruise, it runs 177. Is this a thermostat thing. Most everyone seems to be running at 160. Thoughts?
 
I found a reference of 160F minimum/205F max. Seems like I'm okay there. Maybe I have 170F thermostats
 
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If it were me, since it's never been done I'd pull the aftercoolers and have them taken apart and cleaned. I'd also run a cleaner (rydlime, Barnacle Buster, etc) through the heat exchanger and transmission cooler. I'd do that before the trip.
 
I range between 172F(Idle) and 177F (cruise) time and again. Both engines are also identical. I also had been running on the Hudson where water temp was about 75F on average.



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I just noticed that my fire suppression system in the bilge shows"recharge". Its the HOLON system. I guess that mean I have to recharge it . any suggestions how to do this ?

Thank you
Carmen
 
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