Official 390 E.C. Thread

[dantheman]

Moisture from the anchor locker is a problem... having a rope is probably worse...
I suggest to get rid of the wood rods under the windlass and replace them with one piece of wood as I did (page 4 of this thread).
Moreover I have decided to put a little Nicro mini vent next to the windlass :wink:

I never really thought that water was leaking in from above, I was just thinking it was from a wet anchor line, hmm.. the solid wood does look like a good solution, you have me re-thinking my options. The one piece does look more solid and easier. Have you replaced any of the oval window parts? I'm not sure what to call them, but they leak on mine.

 

[Pietro]

I never really thought that water was leaking in from above, I was just thinking it was from a wet anchor line, hmm.. the solid wood does look like a good solution, you have me re-thinking my options. The one piece does look more solid and easier. Have you replaced any of the oval window parts? I'm not sure what to call them, but they leak on mine.

Yes, I did replace the oval windows. They were not leaking though, just craked and faded..

You may find them on e-bay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEA-...8007292QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

 

[dantheman]

Someone please tell me I'm not nuts. The post below reminded me of it.

question on anodes.

I am looking to add aluminum anodes to the shafts and replace what is on the trim tabs. I know the shaft is 1.5 inches in diameter so I am good with that.

quote]

On the shafts of (at least my) 390 Sea Ray. there's a disk shaped piece of metal that everyone tells me is an anode. It's about 3 inches in diameter and about .375 thick. The manual say's it's for forcing water into the log, position the disk very close to the log and when the boat moves, the water hitting the disk forces water into the log and packing nut, lubricating it. I know people here understand what I'm talking about, but every other boater I've ever talked to thinks I'm nuts. I'm not blasting denjb, he just reminded me of it, I'm thinking that adding anodes to the shaft is probably a good thing.

Thanks.

 

[Ricochet]

You are correct about the disk, I had them on mine, I removed them once I installed dripless.

 

[dantheman]

You are correct about the disk, I had them on mine, I removed them once I installed dripless.

Thanks! I needed that! how do you like the dripless? If I had the extra cash, that would be one of the thing's I'd do, I just hate the water coming in, then it end's up going forword if your low on fuel cause of the position in the water. Is there less vibration with the dripless?

 

[Ka1oxd]

I have the same thing on mine. They are about 1/2 way down the shaft, no where near the shaft log. Mine are not dripless seals. Should I move them up to where the manual states they should be?

 

[dantheman]

I have the same thing on mine. They are about 1/2 way down the shaft, no where near the shaft log. Mine are not dripless seals. Should I move them up to where the manual states they should be?

That's how mine were, they apparently work thier way down the shaft, and with just a couple phillips head screws, it makes it hard to secure them, (especially when under water with scuba on trying to tighten them!). I went through a whole problem with vibration, had the props balanced, installed flexible couplings, and finally, figured out it was a 6 dollar part, the packing! also, the ring thing has a huge effect on lubrication, hence, vibration!

 

[Ricochet]

Thanks! I needed that! how do you like the dripless? If I had the extra cash, that would be one of the thing's I'd do, I just hate the water coming in, then it end's up going forword if your low on fuel cause of the position in the water. Is there less vibration with the dripless?

Installed the Tides Dripless about 5 years ago, very happy, love the dry bilge.

 

[tobnpr]

I still have one of those on one of my shafts (even though they're dripless). SR added them because the tunnels created a venturi effect (supposedly) and there was no cooling water getting into the stuffing boxes.

If you're dripping properly when underway, there wouldn't be an issue. Mine's within 6" of the shaft log. If it's slipped down the shaft, it's not doing what it was designed to do.

And, dripless seals have nothing to do with vibration... if you've got a vibration problem you should find the cause (engine alignment, bent shaft or strut) before it causes expensive damage.

Pietro,

Wish I had done what you did with the solid wood at the bow before I installed the new windlass...I still have some leakage and it's driving me nuts. Caulked the hell out of those stupid teak strips, to no avail. Leaks down over that "headliner" panel with the light in it over the head of the berth. I think I'm just going to rip the damn things right off, patch the screw holes with epoxy, and just paint the fiberglass at this point. Gonna look at it this weekend...

 

[Dasch Boat]

Tobpnr, Check out my response to "Anchor Locker Cavity" in the Fiberglass/Wood/Gelcoat Repairs section. your leak sounds very similar.

 

[dantheman]

And, dripless seals have nothing to do with vibration... if you've got a vibration problem you should find the cause (engine alignment, bent shaft or strut) before it causes expensive damage.

I couldn't agree with you more. with dripless, you don't have the packing, that packing is what caused what I referred to as vibration, most people that rode with me couldn't feel it, and of course, thought i was nuts.

Long story long, first I thought it was the props vibrating, so i jumped in with the scuba, pulled the props, had them fixed for $400.00. still vibrating. Did a really extensive engine alignment that was closer to perfect than the spec's called for, still vibrating. Bought flexible couplings, $600.00, still vibrating. So one day, i had the boat on autopilot, I'm down in the ER feeling around for vibrations, the one packing gland was cooking hot. So ok, new packing, guess what, no more vibration, that old packing was torched, Spent over a grand on un-needed repairs:smt089, But i do have one smooth drivetrain now, And i think I'll just get some better packing and be done with it. I was thinking maybe i can get two really small bilge pumps to put under the packing nuts, I really hate that slimey Genesee river water coming in while docked.

One little trick i can share is putting down two thick beads of silicone caulk, one on each side the forward bilge in the ER. That diverts any water that wants to go forward, into the pump area, works great, before that, when the fuel tanks were low, I had stinky river water traveling up into the cabin area, stinkin to high heaven..

 

[sprink56]

One of the things that drove me nuts with mine was that the A/C condensate for the Salon drained into the bilge. A mod I often considered was to re-route it to the shower sump so it would stay away from the bilge.

With regard to the packing around the prop shaft, I used some packing that RonDDS told me about and my leaking shaft days were over. I'll try to remember the name of it. It is an intermediate step until you change to drip-less.

 

[dantheman]

One of the things that drove me nuts with mine was that the A/C condensate for the Salon drained into the bilge. A mod I often considered was to re-route it to the shower sump so it would stay away from the bilge.

With regard to the packing around the prop shaft, I used some packing that RonDDS told me about and my leaking shaft days were over. I'll try to remember the name of it. It is an intermediate step until you change to drip-less.

It's been a while since i took a look at the condensate tube, but doesn't it just dump out in front of the port engine, and then flows out to the floor of the ER? what about extending it to the pump area? like i said, it's been a while since i looked at it. Thanks..

 

[tobnpr]

You can easily extend the condensate drain tube to the forward sump. Why SR did not do this defies common sense...it's a no-brainer. I didn't even want it there, so I installed a Mermaid Condensator.

You mention "the river water coming in while docked".
It's often difficult to get them adjusted "just right"...but they shouldn't drip at the dock, and only a slight drip when underway. If they're leaking at the dock, I'd tighten them just enough to get it to stop- then confirm you still get a drip when underway.

 

[Pietro]

You can easily extend the condensate drain tube to the forward sump. Why SR did not do this defies common sense...it's a no-brainer. I didn't even want it there, so I installed a Mermaid Condensator.

Mike, what's the problem in having the condensation going into the bilge??? :smt017

The bilge wouldn't be completely dry anyway.....

 

[dantheman]

You can easily extend the condensate drain tube to the forward sump. Why SR did not do this defies common sense...it's a no-brainer. I didn't even want it there, so I installed a Mermaid Condensator.

You mention "the river water coming in while docked".
It's often difficult to get them adjusted "just right"...but they shouldn't drip at the dock, and only a slight drip when underway. If they're leaking at the dock, I'd tighten them just enough to get it to stop- then confirm you still get a drip when underway.

yea, I think the packing is toast again, I had a hard time getting the steel rings on the shafts close up to the log, once i ran out of air in the scuba tank, i had to try and do it holding my breath, not fun. So i had to loosen the packing to get it to drip underway, then at the dock i have to tighten them back down, PITA! before it goes in the water, I'll be sure to put hex screws on the rings and get them in the right position.

 

[bw219]

Can anyone recommend a good battery charger replacement? My batteries aren't receiving a charge (they are new) according to the amp meter and I have to assume the charger needs replacing. Am I right that it is located under the seat in the salon, next to the air conditioner? Thanks

 

[Pietro]

Can anyone recommend a good battery charger replacement? My batteries aren't receiving a charge (they are new) according to the amp meter and I have to assume the charger needs replacing. Am I right that it is located under the seat in the salon, next to the air conditioner? Thanks

I have replaced the original with two SBC Quick and I'm satisfied so far. And, yes it's under the seat near the a/c :wink:

 

[bw219]

I have replaced the original with two SBC Quick and I'm satisfied so far. And, yes it's under the seat near the a/c :wink:

Thanks. Ok, so I bought a new unit, but how do I get to where it is mounted?? I took the cushion off the couch and all the screws out of the piece underneath but can't get it to budge....am I missing something? Seems like that piece should come right out (I also took the screws holding it behind the seat out).

 

[bartlett]

The converter/charger on this boat never worked properly. When you replace it get one with a battery conditioner that brings the battery through cycles. I got 3 years out of mine when I replaced it. I thought it was located on the the port firewall in the bilge.