Official 380 Thread

Doc O Rock said:
The house uses the engine banks, but don't ask me which, I changed to all LED lights so it's never an issue.
The grey water goes overboard.
The toilet water comes from the onboard water tank.
I'm not sure on the fender size.
Ours is a 99 but essentially the same and we love the boat. A great value for the money and everything is re-buildable.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
 
So, the dreaded 7.4 mag exhaust question.... 2000 380 DA, 730 hours, all fresh water. Very clean boat, appears well maintained with owners have upgraded several items, except it has the original log exhaust. Not sure how to tell if it has had ANY mods, but def doesn't have the lift mufflers.

Read all over the internet and see the issues, here in the Midwest, when you ask mechanics and surveyors, they say they haven't seen the issues.....

So I am Having the mechanic do the compression test to the engines/Genny.
Will this show if it has had reversion/inversion? What will the leak down show (if I have it done)? Should I do Both? Not made of money, stretching a little bit on this boat.... I can Not find any bulletin to show the broker/surveyor that this is a know issue. If you have it, please send it to me asap. With temps in the low teens, I think The survey will be a week away, or longer.

Also, with the boat laid up and the oil changed in the fall, should I have Oil analysis done, will it show with the majority of the oil being fresh. I would have them get the oil after the survey test run of the engines genny.

Also, not an engine guy, curious if it is worth pulling the risers or mani to physically see if there is signs of rust....

Thanks in advance, I read This entire post (1400+) over the weekend, great info
Thank you!
Chris
 
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Hey Chris

The compression and leak down test will just give you a general indication of the health of compression, not necessarily pinpoint any particular component failure, or a specific cause. To determine that, you would have to to pull the risers and manifolds. However, I'm not sure the current owner would allow that on a survey, I wouldn't.

The rate of deterioration on the risers, manifolds and other internal components is much faster in salt water, but still happens in fresh water. You can read up on it here...https://www.yachtsurvey.com/exhaust_risers.htm. In the end, they are known maintenance items, and you should adjust price based on what you think engine condition and remaining life is. At some point, they need to be replaced. Some have installed taller risers, and some have redone the exhaust with lift style mufflers.

With the oil being new, its not going to show you much if anything, and a single oil analysis doesn't tell you much anyway. There has the be a history of oil analysis to really tell you something, when some aspect of the analysis deviates from the normal. The one thing it might show if metal particles that could indicate bearing failure, so from that standpoint I would still do it, considering it costs $40-$50 for 2 engine oil samples. Do the gear oil, coolant and generator oil while your at it.

With a boat this age, you would have to expect to do some maintenance/upgrades. The good news is most of this can be accomplished DIY.
 
dtfeld said:
Hey Chris

The compression and leak down test will just give you a general indication of the health of compression, not necessarily pinpoint any particular component failure, or a specific cause. To determine that, you would have to to pull the risers and manifolds. However, I'm not sure the current owner would allow that on a survey, I wouldn't.

The rate of deterioration on the risers, manifolds and other internal components is much faster in salt water, but still happens in fresh water. You can read up on it here...https://www.yachtsurvey.com/exhaust_risers.htm. In the end, they are known maintenance items, and you should adjust price based on what you think engine condition and remaining life is. At some point, they need to be replaced. Some have installed taller risers, and some have redone the exhaust with lift style mufflers.

With the oil being new, its not going to show you much if anything, and a single oil analysis doesn't tell you much anyway. There has the be a history of oil analysis to really tell you something, when some aspect of the analysis deviates from the normal. The one thing it might show if metal particles that could indicate bearing failure, so from that standpoint I would still do it, considering it costs $40-$50 for 2 engine oil samples. Do the gear oil, coolant and generator oil while your at it.

With a boat this age, you would have to expect to do some maintenance/upgrades. The good news is most of this can be accomplished DIY.
Click to expand...

Great info, thank you!

So I want to test:
the engine oil on port Engine, starboard Engine, and Genny (3 total)
Gear oil in the trasnmissions (2 total)

So a total of 5 test, is that correct?

Also leak down and compression test on the 2 engines and Genny

I have a pic of the engine compartment, if you can tell if the additional Lift is installed.

I have had a couple of these engines on my dock, several years, no one has had issues with the 7.4 mags, they love them

So, if all test out, should be good to go? I would plan to add the lift mufflers, but just want to make sure what the risks are. I would think, if it hasn't failed in 19 years on this boat with 2 owners, I rely on forums, just like this on every mechanical thing I own.

I am curious how many out there have never altered their exhaust and hadn't had issues. Already have the price agreed to, subject to sea trial, survey etc. If I had a document from a manufacturer that said "upgrade to lift mufflers for 380 sea rays with 7.4 Mags" I could use it to get some of this work included.....

I am guessing no bulletins are out there

Thanks again, Great info, I appreciate the help!

chris
 
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Attachments

  • Service Bulletin waterinengine.PDSF.PDF
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  • Service Bulletin Risers Gaskets.PDF
    19.6 KB · Views: 213
kap2 said:
Hey Chris here are some bulletins you may find helpful. Also, there are "turbulators" that have been design for the exhaust system that I've read are the real solution to the inversion - read this link https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/uncategorized/marine-exhaust-turbulators

Good luck!!

Service Bulletins :
Click to expand...

Thank you Kap2!
Great info!
which 7.4 motors do you have?
Do you know anyone with the turbulators? very interesting for sure.

I worry a lot. I know some people, the majority of people that had these motors may have never had an issue, and they do not come onto this site. I am really curious how many people on this site actually had reversion happen to them.

I had a 1999 Yamaha 1200 XLL waverunner. The worst designed engine (66v) by yamaha ever.... the exhaust power valves would come loose and crash your pistons, cat converter would clog at 50 hours, carbs were buried under the exhaust and had 3 filters built into the carbs that would clog from gas varnish and lean out and toast the piston..... i could go on and on....

i don't want another one of those.....
 
Chris340 said:
Great info, thank you!

So I want to test:
the engine oil on port Engine, starboard Engine, and Genny (3 total)
Gear oil in the trasnmissions (2 total)

So a total of 5 test, is that correct?

Also leak down and compression test on the 2 engines and Genny

I have a pic of the engine compartment, if you can tell if the additional Lift is installed.

I have had a couple of these engines on my dock, several years, no one has had issues with the 7.4 mags, they love them

So, if all test out, should be good to go? I would plan to add the lift mufflers, but just want to make sure what the risks are. I would think, if it hasn't failed in 19 years on this boat with 2 owners, I rely on forums, just like this on every mechanical thing I own.

I am curious how many out there have never altered their exhaust and hadn't had issues. Already have the price agreed to, subject to sea trial, survey etc. If I had a document from a manufacturer that said "upgrade to lift mufflers for 380 sea rays with 7.4 Mags" I could use it to get some of this work included.....

I am guessing no bulletins are out there

Thanks again, Great info, I appreciate the help!

chris
Click to expand...


I would do the 5 oil samples, and also the coolant. Coolant tests show raw water intrusion or combustion products in the coolant, but generally point to things that can go wrong internally...each test is around $20. Money WELL spent.

As far as "lift", if your referring to the risers, you would have to measure them, but generally they are 3" or 6" and are the strait part bolted between the manifolds and the elbow. I think someone could tell if you had pictures.

I'll just say its a 19+ year old boat. They do require maintenance, what that will be you never know:) But the 380's are sweet rides.
 
Chris I have the MIE 7.4 MPI, 310hp. I do have the "turbulators" and "resonators" installed. I'm on salt water and replaced manifolds and risers every 5 years. In addition, I remove the risers and inspect them annually. Which is overkill but, I'm a little OCD when it comes to maintenance items. I'm do my own work so I save on the labor and spend on replacement parts. In my area the season is short and loosing a month due to a maintenance item failure isn't worth it. Also, for water lift muffler system you be spending around $2.5k for parts alone.
 
I have a few brand new parts that were intended for my 380 Sundancer that I sold. Some parts will fit other model boats. I will take any reasonable offer, and you pay for shipping. Thanks for looking. I hope someone can use the parts.

1. One Tide 1.5" shaft seal, with a spare seal.
2. 16 NGK TR55IX 7164 spark plugs.
3. Navy blue windshield cover. Covers glass portion at helm.
4. Tan boot cover for when camper portion of bimini top is rolled up. Measures 93 inches long. I think it was to a 340 Sundancer
 
Has anyone had issues with their trunk closing? Some of the hinge screws are rusting out and I think they are not holding/grabbing as well as they used to. I am thinking this is making the long hinge assembly for the trunk door to go out of alignment.

I can close the port side latch, but the starboard just wont close all the way in for a smooth fit. Wondering if I am better off ordering a new hinge assembly and slightly thicker screws for a tighter pull. The trunk stays closed, it just kind of annoys me that it's not perfect.... you know, those lil things get to ya, that wind up costing a couple hundred bucks just to make me smile once or twice. Anyone "been there done that" with their trunk?

Vince
 
Chris-380 said:
We do a lot of raft ups with all different size of boats. Curious what fenders people are using with their 380. Looking for the largest that will still fit in the aft locker. What clips/attachements are you using. On my last boat, i used these on the front.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/taylor-...MIroi5oJuT4AIVHh-tBh1GtQVVEAQYBCABEgLe8fD_BwE

and secured the rear to the cleat.

Thanks in advance
Chris
Click to expand...
Hey Chris, I made my own lil rig using these clips I got from Amazon and hang the fenders off my bow rail sideways. Most of the fender clips at West Marine did not fit my bow rail as it was a lil too large in OD. I found these on Amazon and they have held up well in the salty spray while we are under way. I just flip the fenders over the rail when we leave the dock so I don't look like I am driving a bayliner with fenders floppin-round. When I get back to the dock, or raft up, I flip them back over the sides. I think my fenders are the Taylor Big B 10" x 26". One of them actually is a lil soft and I can kick it under the back seat, one in the trunk and one on each side in front of the spring cleat based on my dock needs.

2vv2exc.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDXTKFC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
51Ht1H4utEL._SL1000_.jpg
 
Survey on the 2000 380 went pretty well yesterday.
Engines and genny ran great, with fuel low and no water, obtained 36.5mph gps at 4800 rams (on tach). The starboard engine was a little slow to start, but once warmed up, no issue

-The windlass was erratic. It would mostly click and every so often would work
-the electric couch did nothing at all, breaker was on....
-Port fuel gauge shows full, never changed and there appears to be less than a quarter
-PO had a stereo amp mounted in the E.R.

Everything else was either minor or a known issue....

Waiting for the mechanics report on the engines/genny

Should have official survey sometime tomorrow, then I will ask the owner to repair the 4 items I noted above.

Thank you
Chris
 
LattitudeAdjustment said:
Hey Chris, I made my own lil rig using these clips I got from Amazon and hang the fenders off my bow rail sideways. Most of the fender clips at West Marine did not fit my bow rail as it was a lil too large in OD. I found these on Amazon and they have held up well in the salty spray while we are under way. I just flip the fenders over the rail when we leave the dock so I don't look like I am driving a bayliner with fenders floppin-round. When I get back to the dock, or raft up, I flip them back over the sides. I think my fenders are the Taylor Big B 10" x 26". One of them actually is a lil soft and I can kick it under the back seat, one in the trunk and one on each side in front of the spring cleat based on my dock needs.

2vv2exc.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDXTKFC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
51Ht1H4utEL._SL1000_.jpg
Click to expand...
I like that setup for the front, thank you! Also thank you for the fender size/style, that's the one I was thinking
 
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does anyone know which bank the windlass and motorized couch is on for a 2000 380? During the survey, the starboard batteries were dead and they changed those. The mechanic is thinking they are fed by the other bank and there isn't enough power to operate?

Windlass was erratic, the couch didn't move..... I think it's a little more than just the batteries, but could still be a simple fix of a bad connection on the windlass, and Maybe a couch that hasn't been operated in years being bound up....

Thanks in advance!
Chris
 
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Chris-380, I had a similar issue with our 380.
The couch had been unused for quite a few years and would not move, found if i pulled the lower by hand while the wife pushed the switch it could move forward this went on for awhile its moving freely now though. Might just need alittle assistance at first.

Or you have some other electrical issues going on.

Jamie
 
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