Official 380 Thread

Hey folks. I was wondering how anyone utilizes the two closet spaces in the forward berth to store clothes, etc. Bins, shelves or rods?
Thanks,
Mark
 
OK, so back to the Fridge replacement.....it's not an easy job, but doable. I didn't take pictures because I didn't want to remember it. Aside from the typical remove and replace verbiage, there are some absolutes to this job. (1) Plan on removing the sliding cabin door; both pieces. To do this, you have to remove the upholstered panel above the door on the outside. Expect the push through plastic Christmas tree fasteners to break off, due to heat and age. I think one removed properly out of the dozen or so in the pad. Most pulled out of the pad, and stayed in the cockpit. This pad has to be removed in order to get to the screws holding the top of the sliding doors in the upper track. 2 screws per door. The bottom of the doors are held with 3 screws each; the doors lift out of the black tracks, that stay attached to the rollers.

The old fridge sides out. Remove the doors, the compressor, and cooling coils in order to get everything out of the door. To get the new Norcold DE0061 into the cabin, the compressor gets removed and taped to the top. After going inside, it re-attaches with 4-5 screws. When re-attaching, change the location from the rear left corner to 6 inches right, towards the center of the rear of the back. Otherwise, it will touch when pushed back on the fiberglass structure of the door pocket.

The newer model has a water drain line for draining defrost condensate. I chose to add a splice to this, and run it into a bilge pump line, where the thru hull is, just behind the fridge. I drilled a hole in the bilge flex hose, and pushed the 1/4" line to 1/2" short of the outside edge of the hull. It should only be a drip line, anyway. I sealed the connection on the inside, and taped it in place.

At this point, you just slide in the fridge, and screw it tight. Snap on the trim, and inset the door panels, sold separately, of course. Re-attach the cabin doors and upholstery. Also, the 2 grab bars in the cabin should be removed during this sequence, but they are only held with locknuts.

Good luck,

Don
 
Anyone know what size amp came with the original sound system. I am looking to upgrade it and plan to go with a fusion head unit and then a set of MX serious speakers but need to know the size amp to properly pair everything or if I need to replace it to increase the sound quality.
 
2001 380. Port motor doesn't start always when depressing start switch. Sometimes no sound at all when I push on switch but if I hold it down, 10 seconds later it cranks and turns over. Pressing the crossover switch makes no difference. Batteries are pretty new and fully charged. Sometimes works OK. Any thoughts?
 
gator1 said:
Anyone know what size amp came with the original sound system. I am looking to upgrade it and plan to go with a fusion head unit and then a set of MX serious speakers but need to know the size amp to properly pair everything or if I need to replace it to increase the sound quality.
Click to expand...


I don't have the actual model numbers right in front of me for some reason, but here are pics of the 2 amps. I also upgraded to a Fusion 750 (well, currently in the middle of it), and am using the Fusion sub/amp combo for the cabin system, while all of the cockpit speakers/sub are JL

32YpcAy.png


7u2CUdR.png
 
So I have a 2003 Sundancer 380 and am trying to figure out a few things. Do the cabin lights work on AC only or do i need to activate my battery solenoids and turn on the cabin light breakers? Also, we have a refrigerator in the cabin that is not cooling properly. I believe that works on AC and DC - is that correct? Do people recharge the refrigerators? We have a refrigerator in the cockpit area also. Is this also an AC DC refrigerator? Thanks. Tim
 
Typically, this is due to corrosion on the switch contacts. If the boat hasn't been started in a while, it gets worse. So, the quick fix is to jiggle the switch back and forth to clean the contacts, but long term, you can remove the panel and spray contact cleaner on the underside of the switch, or switches. Replacement switches are generally available fro Flounder Pounder. Good luck.

Don
 
Cabin lights are DC, and yes, the solenoids have to be tuned on. If you are using your boat, even seldom, there is no need to turn them off. The cabin refrigerator is AC/DC. It runs on AC when connected to either the dock or the generator, but if not, it runs on DC. If you are tuning off the battery solenoids, that could be your cooling problem, as the cabin unit takes a while to cool down from room temperature.

Don
 
Where are these amps located? Behind the salon couch?



bracketracer said:
I don't have the actual model numbers right in front of me for some reason, but here are pics of the 2 amps. I also upgraded to a Fusion 750 (well, currently in the middle of it), and am using the Fusion sub/amp combo for the cabin system, while all of the cockpit speakers/sub are JL

32YpcAy.png


7u2CUdR.png
Click to expand...
 
WOW. Cool. Didn't know that ^^^^ How do you get those cushions off to access that area? Would love to put a 12v receptacle there. Later models have one. My 2001 doesn't.
 
Honestly (and this is kind of embarrassing), I don't remember how they came off because it was quite a few months ago that I started pulling stuff apart for upgrades, but lots of life things intervened, so just getting everything back together this weekend.

However, I'll follow up with info as soon as I'm back at it.
 
That's also where the trigger switches are for actuating the A/C units. The cushions are easy to remove. Loosen the screws, and lift up.

Don
 
Screws embedded in the tufting of the cushions?
 
OK, thanks!

Different topic...
Anyone have to replace the wiper motor. My stbd side is jamming up and popping the fuse. I've accessed it via the removable screen inside the cabin. The pinion for the wiper arm mechanism is pretty rusted. Gave it a good dosing with WD40 and left for the week. I'll see if it freed up tomorrow, but planning for the worst. Looks damn near impossible to remove for replacement.
 
Back to the Norcold refrigerator in the salon. Mine was replaced, with the same POS, by the PO and is only about 4 years old. Now the freezer works fine but the fridge barely gets cold. Any thoughts?
 
The start up procedure on these from a room temperature setting is to set it to max cool for 8 hours. Just as a last resort, I would shut it off, and let the temp go to room temp. Then set it to max for 8 hours to see if it can cool both sections. Then lower the setting to about 45. Let us know how it goes.

Don
 
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