Official 370 Sundancer thread

Hmmmm….I’m tempted to sell (am I really?)…lol…. I have a 95-370. Last bit of mechanical work is the starboard transmission has a knock in forward everything else is either brand new or rebuilt.
 
Just giving you an idea of what it looks like… I have been thinking about it, but I’m not sure.
 

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Just giving you an idea of what it looks like… I have been thinking about it, but I’m not sure.
Give it some thought, we are heading north week after next to look at a few. Should be in your are last day of September. You can PM me if you need. Thanks
 
Hi all,
Before I start pulling things apart, thought I'd get some opinions.

Westerbeke generator - I've had it out of the boat before and know it well. I've recently (months ago) rebuilt the carby too and it has been running great.

I beleive I may have one failed or failing capacitor since it now likes to have some load before it shows it's creating power on the gauge and doesn't like powering the A/C so much anymore!

It is running for 20-30min and then shuts down. I can restart straight away, but it will only run for 5 or so minutes before shutting down (which is why it makes me think it might not be the overtemp sensor)
Waterflow looks fine (I've rebuilt the water pump before too), and I have had it shut down once because of overheating before I rebuilt the pump and it doesn't remind me of that situation, although I won't rule it.

Coolant level is fine, Oil level also good.

Any thoughts before I start getting into it?

Thanks
Dave
 
Hi all,
Before I start pulling things apart, thought I'd get some opinions.

Westerbeke generator - I've had it out of the boat before and know it well. I've recently (months ago) rebuilt the carby too and it has been running great.

I beleive I may have one failed or failing capacitor since it now likes to have some load before it shows it's creating power on the gauge and doesn't like powering the A/C so much anymore!

It is running for 20-30min and then shuts down. I can restart straight away, but it will only run for 5 or so minutes before shutting down (which is why it makes me think it might not be the overtemp sensor)
Waterflow looks fine (I've rebuilt the water pump before too), and I have had it shut down once because of overheating before I rebuilt the pump and it doesn't remind me of that situation, although I won't rule it.

Coolant level is fine, Oil level also good.

Any thoughts before I start getting into it?

Thanks
Dave

Have you checked the oil level in the governor?
 
Just buying a 1991 350 Sundancer and its got those deteriorating black foam style shifter knobs. Does anyone have a replacement idea. I keep looking online but not much luck yet. Thanks!
 
Hi all,
Before I start pulling things apart, thought I'd get some opinions.

Westerbeke generator - I've had it out of the boat before and know it well. I've recently (months ago) rebuilt the carby too and it has been running great.

I beleive I may have one failed or failing capacitor since it now likes to have some load before it shows it's creating power on the gauge and doesn't like powering the A/C so much anymore!

It is running for 20-30min and then shuts down. I can restart straight away, but it will only run for 5 or so minutes before shutting down (which is why it makes me think it might not be the overtemp sensor)
Waterflow looks fine (I've rebuilt the water pump before too), and I have had it shut down once because of overheating before I rebuilt the pump and it doesn't remind me of that situation, although I won't rule it.

Coolant level is fine, Oil level also good.

Any thoughts before I start getting into it?

Thanks
Dave
Westerbeke fuel pumps are notorious for overheating and shutting down, then restart right away. Then shut down again. You can take the old one to NAPA or similar, they can match it up.
 
Westerbeke fuel pumps are notorious for overheating and shutting down, then restart right away. Then shut down again. You can take the old one to NAPA or similar, they can match it up.
Thanks, I've been suspicious of it but no real reason until now to suspect a fuel issue.
 
+1 on the fuel shutoff solenoid and/or pump. I'm on my 3rd over 22 years. The Cap will also definitely cause the gen to startup at low voltage, and when you put a load on it, suddenly it goes to full voltage. Just match the uF and voltage specs with the old one. You'll find a can that fits. My Amazon $15.00 cap is still going strong after 6 years. Currently unavailable. I also had to change the uF value up a bit to compensate for changing values of the windings, etc.
Westerbeke red paint is very expensive compared to unpainted parts.
 
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+1 on the fuel shutoff solenoid and/or pump. I'm on my 3rd over 22 years. The Cap will also definitely cause the gen to startup at low voltage, and when you put a load on it, suddenly it goes to full voltage. Just match the uF and voltage specs with the old one. You'll find a can that fits. My Amazon $15.00 cap is still going strong after 6 years. Currently unavailable. I also had to change the uF value up a bit to compensate for changing values of the windings, etc.
Westerbeke red paint is very expensive compared to unpainted parts.
I've learned that lesson, 4 spare Cap's on the boat ready to go!
 
Asking this question for a friend of mine who just purchased a '98 370DA and wants to find the Owners Manual. Neither of us could find one listed on the Sea Ray site. Actually only really need a copy of the dimensions page (the one which shows the water lines, arch, antennas, etc) which is usually within the first few pages.

If anybody could send me a copy of that page that would be great and much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Hi all,
Before I start pulling things apart, thought I'd get some opinions.

Westerbeke generator - I've had it out of the boat before and know it well. I've recently (months ago) rebuilt the carby too and it has been running great.

I beleive I may have one failed or failing capacitor since it now likes to have some load before it shows it's creating power on the gauge and doesn't like powering the A/C so much anymore!

It is running for 20-30min and then shuts down. I can restart straight away, but it will only run for 5 or so minutes before shutting down (which is why it makes me think it might not be the overtemp sensor)
Waterflow looks fine (I've rebuilt the water pump before too), and I have had it shut down once because of overheating before I rebuilt the pump and it doesn't remind me of that situation, although I won't rule it.

Coolant level is fine, Oil level also good.

Any thoughts before I start getting into it?

Thanks
Dave

Since I'm here asking another question, I'll weigh in on this because I have had these same issues. Indeed, the capacitor will create the no ac without load problem you describe. I troubleshot that one for a while, but when I replaced the capacitors, I was back up and running. (unfortunately the back end spun the rear bearing just after I replaced the caps... So I put a new back end on!)

But I just had the same issues mid season with the shut down and restart thing. First thing to do is troubleshoot all your sensors: Two oil pressures, one N.O. and one N.C., exhaust water temp, engine coolant temp. Check the terminals for corrosion. Ultimately I had two issues that you may or may not have. The first time I had this problem this season, it turns out that the Sea Ray spec oil pressure switch (the normally open one I believe but may be the other) was bad. I replaced both anyway. The switch was definitely bad and needed to be replaced, but I then had the intermittent shut down issue as you describe. I tested every other switch and could not find a problem, so I actually thought I had an intermittent fuel pump problem and was going to end my vacation early. The very last thing that I checked (which should have been my FIRST) was for spark. Oddly, but not oddly, when the genny would not restart there was no spark (but plenty of fuel). As I had my head jammed in to the coil area of my generator, I have a 380DA, I just on a whim reached for the coil power wires. One of them just kind of fell off... So, I just took them both on and off a couple of times and went to restart it... Fired up instantly and has not stalled since. So moral of the story, check for spark and check the connections at the coil, and all switches before panicking... Anyway, my two cents, hope I can be of some help.

Good luck
 
Asking this question for a friend of mine who just purchased a '98 370DA and wants to find the Owners Manual. Neither of us could find one listed on the Sea Ray site. Actually only really need a copy of the dimensions page (the one which shows the water lines, arch, antennas, etc) which is usually within the first few pages.

If anybody could send me a copy of that page that would be great and much appreciated!

I believe this was what was pulled before regarding a 1998.
Look back on page 200 of this thread.

Thanks!
index.php
 
Asking this question for a friend of mine who just purchased a '98 370DA and wants to find the Owners Manual. Neither of us could find one listed on the Sea Ray site. Actually only really need a copy of the dimensions page (the one which shows the water lines, arch, antennas, etc) which is usually within the first few pages.

If anybody could send me a copy of that page that would be great and much appreciated!

Thanks!
Go here and download what you want.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6o2ox9w62a9qlo0/AAAZC7O-_S8iWiOqUH8QSy8Ea?dl=0
 
Just buying a 1991 350 Sundancer and its got those deteriorating black foam style shifter knobs. Does anyone have a replacement idea. I keep looking online but not much luck yet. Thanks!

No ideas? Someone has to have a replacement for these. Thanks!
 
Well the weather is finally cooling off and I see more and more people at the Marina starting to shut things down and wrap things up for the end of the year. Though I intend to continue to visit the Mad Hatter as often as I can, Im sure my weekly trips down to Guntersville will become less frequent. Overall consensus for the few months that we have had the boat, we absolutely love it. Far different than the Yamaha we had previously and honestly feels like a better fit for us overall.
Things I have taken note of overall, I still dont feel the boat is performing at the level that it should. Granted, its 26+ years old but I just dont feel it is getting the power/ umph that it should. In my mind this is an issue for next year and we will address it at the beginning of the season. The Mechs at the marina have all service records so we know most of whats been done in the past, but I tend to agree when everyone states its probably in need of a good tune up.
Updates and upgrades,
  • definitely looking to get that carpet out of there and put down a good hard replacement. The carpet is atrocious and stained from front to back
  • FWD birth, factory mattress looks brand new but is HORRIBLE to sleep on. Looking to add a memory foam topper as many in the forum have mentioned as part of their upgrades.
  • Instrument panel: holding on by a thread. Years of being outside, albeit covered, has weakened it and made it brittle so there are numerous cracks to deal with.
  • All factory installed TVs, Microwave, coffee pot have been pulled and cavities are just awaiting replacements.
  • replace 95% of the bulbs throughout the boat with LEDs, installed LED strip lights in the bilge, LED strip lights for cabin and cockpit in hand, just need to work out the installation plan.
  • as always.... more to follow!
Outside of that all, just hoping we can keep the 370 forum alive and I sincerely appreciate the info you all continue to share and have shared in the past!!!!!
 
I’m in need of some advice. I’m trying to gain access under the carpeted board under the rear bed. There are eight screws that hold it down. Four of which are blocked by vertical board on the back.
I removed 3 screws that hold the trim around the mirror, the 5 screws that look like they hold the mirror up, as well as the 4 screws under the thick cushion. But I can’t seem to get it to budge.
Any thoughts?
(I’m trying to upload a picture)
 

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I’m in need of some advice. I’m trying to gain access under the carpeted board under the rear bed. There are eight screws that hold it down. Four of which are blocked by vertical board on the back.
I removed 3 screws that hold the trim around the mirror, the 5 screws that look like they hold the mirror up, as well as the 4 screws under the thick cushion. But I can’t seem to get it to budge.
Any thoughts?
(I’m trying to upload a picture)

Guaranty either @RubberDuckeeToo2 or @370Dancer probably know exactly what you're talking about. I've not ventured that far in pulling things up so lets just say you have my interest piqued as well Sir.

JJ
 

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