Official 370 Sundancer thread

TN370 said:
See if I can bring this post back to life to try to get a little better understanding. My hot water heater is out. Noticed that it’s sitting in a pool of water in the compartment. I’ve been reading up on adding a drain to the compartment through the bulkhead. That seems simple enough. But back to fixing the hot water heater... I think I’ll just replace while I’m in there. Anyone had good luck on a replacement model?
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Just installed a new KUUMA 6 gal last week, easy install and works great...have you tried the reset button on your unit?
 
Alright, so I have read over the 164 pages and all I can say wow!! There’s soo much useful information and pictures it’s amazing.

So the 2 issues I’m currently dealing with on my 95 370 Dancer are:

Galley Norcold fridge : has anyone replaced there’s with glass front “bar” style refrigerator only? If so which one? I have found a couple that should fit but would just like to know if anyone else has done this.

Fuel: So we took her on 35 mile trip this week and only one gas gauges is now working port side only. It also seemed as if both motors where running off that tank even tho both valves are open....based on the amount the Port needle moved. I’m going to take the dash gauge off and clean the connection but is there away to check the levels of the tanks? I’m guessing there is a top mount fuel pump that can be removed....is there a float attached to this?
 
my 95 starboard tank has a threaded port with a plug on top near the fuel sending wires that can be used to dip a straight wire.
the port side ; had to cut a 4" hole directly on top of the fuel sender thru the deck after removing ice maker.
there are no internal fuel pumps, just floats.
to check guage,with key on, jumper both wires together , gauge should read full.
PM me with the frig info, as I have been looking. however, not being dual voltage, would only run on gen/ or shore power
 
Roch Speiser said:
Unfortunately I do not have the time to look thru a 163 pages for pertinent info when a “search” produces generic “maybe or maybe not” answers and is archaic. Silly me to think a specific question asked and answered by someone who just went thru the same issue would be time saving. But next time i will hit the easy button.
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Boatswains-locker made the larger SR canvas. Unfortunately, SR made the canvas for some Merritt Island boats. This includes the 95-99 370DA. Boatswsains-locker made the frames only.

Those 370DAs would have the patterns, sometimes, left in the boat. Those owners usually tossed them. Some kept them and gave them to boatswains-locker when they needed replacements. According to their website, the 1995 is not in their library.

A camper was not OEM for this boat. I owned a ‘97 370DA, so I have been through this.

Use a local canvas person. You will be able to customize it with regard to where you want eisinglass windows, screens, etc in the back.
 
Summershack said:
Just installed a new KUUMA 6 gal last week, easy install and works great...have you tried the reset button on your unit?
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That Kuuma unit was the same I was considering. But where is there a reset switch? On the unit?
 
Chada said:
Anybody have throttles that are uneven? My throttles are in the same position and are a balanced rpm at idle all the way down but as I start to advance them the starboard throttle lever is quite a bit ahead of the port lever to maintain the same rpm by 3200 rpm. Is that adjustable?
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I am having this same issue. I am assuming it is something adjustable with the throttle cable as this is something new that just started happening this year. It does seem like it is more pronounced over 2000 RPM.
 
Question: Does anyone know the width of the ladder brackets on a 95 370? Mine is the style that slides out from under the swim platform and folds down. Unfortunately when I slid the ladder out this weekend the plastic stops broke allowing the ladder to keep sliding out.... to the bottom of the lake... Any help would be appreciated.
 
CLE said:
I am having this same issue. I am assuming it is something adjustable with the throttle cable as this is something new that just started happening this year. It does seem like it is more pronounced over 2000 RPM.
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eh, never seen a cable "fall" out of adjustment. Much more likely a power issue. Get ready.
 
I adjusted the throttle cable and took care of it thanks for the reply.
 
Chada said:
I adjusted the throttle cable and took care of it thanks for the reply.
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Now I'm going to go back and look at mine. A while back among a million other things, I put a pre-load on the throttle cable to make sure the butterflies were closed in idle position. Maybe too much. Thanks for closing the loop on the issue. That rarely happens on forums.
 
Sure. I am going to recheck mine as well this weekend. I also want to make sure the butterflies are opening and closing correctly. I also wanted to check the flame arrestors and the throttle bodies but according to the Mercury manual it looks like I would have to take the elbow off to clean the throttle bodies.
 
Chada said:
Sure. I am going to recheck mine as well this weekend. I also want to make sure the butterflies are opening and closing correctly. I also wanted to check the flame arrestors and the throttle bodies but according to the Mercury manual it looks like I would have to take the elbow off to clean the throttle bodies.
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That is correct for our backwards facing engines. Or you can lift the plenum. That usually costs you a new set of plenum gaskets, though.
 
it's a mesh of metal grids, so maybe a nice heavy dose of carb cleaner with an absorb pad underneath would be enough, and then let it evaporate. Not tried that, although I'm about to.
 
Stee6043 said:
As someone that is 70% of the way through upgrading my 1997 vintage electronics I can share with you the following.

1.) Pick a brand. Hit West Marine and play around with them. I went with Garmin because of the user interface. I personally feel the Garmin units are the "Apple" of marine devices. Easy to use, intuitive. Simard is more prominent around my docks. Raymarine is probably the least popular for those upgrading around me. This brand talk is very much Ford vs Chevy. They are all great.

2.) Your older gear is not likely to interface with the new, digital gear.

3.) Your existing autopilot is generally regarded as "very good" and replacing it should not be taken lightly.

4.) I don't think surface mount transducers will work with our hull construction/materials?

5.) Radar with a decent sized MFD will be the most expensive part of your upgrade. I'm assuming your radome is analog and as such it will not be compatible with newer MFD's.

Faced with a similar decision to yours here's the route I took: I've installed two Garmin 7" plotters at the helm along with a Garmin VHF. They are networked together and with a Fusion stereo in the cabin. I skipped the transducer but may add one in the future. This is my "70%" upgrade. I'm leaving my autopilot as-is since it's bullet proof and for the amount I use the pilot it's not worthy of the $$$'s to switch it to Garmin...yet. And last, I'm saving my coins for a used digital Garmin radar. When I have the cash ready for the 4' array and pedestal I'll also buy a used 10"/12" plotter to go with it. Network the whole thing and be done...likely just in time to sell the boat, get a new (to me) one and start over :)

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If you don't mind a stupid question...I removed/disconnected all my old raymarine electronics from dash, coiling wiring behind. I have not dug into this yet but do they terminate at the fuse panel under the dash or in the engine compartment somewhere? I'd like to de-energize all the old wiring and then trim wires for a bit more room behind dash for newer equipment. Thanks!
 
Roch Speiser said:
If you don't mind a stupid question...I removed/disconnected all my old raymarine electronics from dash, coiling wiring behind. I have not dug into this yet but do they terminate at the fuse panel under the dash or in the engine compartment somewhere? I'd like to de-energize all the old wiring and then trim wires for a bit more room behind dash for newer equipment. Thanks!
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I think they should all be fused under the dash but who knows what prior owners may have done. When in doubt I turn off the batteries :)
 
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