Official 370 Sundancer thread

UPDATE

wow this has been quite the adventure, these boats are AWESOME

So I have installed my fusion deck and it sounds amazing~!

My windlass issue was caused by the breaker down in the bilge. it just needed to be pushed in. (see pic)

I also installed two 10 inch subs (pic attached) powered by a 500 watt alpine amp that i put under the couch in the cabin

I have learned that the stock battery isolator system is a piece of shit and robs 0.5 volts from the house system, i am going to rip it out and install a Automatic charging relay by blue sea systems.

I installed a digital voltage meter on my dash that monitors both battery banks. (see pic)

I am in the process of adding 3 more batteries for my house system which will bring the total to 6(1oo amp hours each -sealed AGM) under the couch area inside near the bow

I mounted 2 wetsounds 8 inch tower speakers (see pic) I was actually only going to put them there temporarily but i Like the position, I have two more I am going to mount on the roof with these 360 degree tilt brackets i found for tv's so i can point them in any direction I want. (see pic)

I am going to pretty much completely re do my interior and go with a vinyl flooring... I also bought an RGB app controlled LEd lighting kit that im installing tomorrow
 

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My engine water light goes on from time to time but I still have water coming out the side, does anyone else get that issue? bad sensor? how serious is that? Shut it down then it goes out.

Nate
 
Also my westebeke generator is not starting i think I will battery my way through the summer and pull it for servicing in the winter, unless anyone has any tips for that?
 
NateVancouver said:
Also my westebeke generator is not starting i think I will battery my way through the summer and pull it for servicing in the winter, unless anyone has any tips for that?
Click to expand...
Couple of things:
Looks like we will hear you before we ever see you ;-)
You will never sell that boat in Florida, but the cushions in the cockpit look very cool

Let's troubleshoot your generator before you go to the trouble of disassembling half your Stbd engine to get the genset out.
First thing I would do is energize the system on the remote panel by putting the start switch in the mid position. Then go to the genset, and push the bypass switch first, observing the linkage between the carb and the choke solenoid. If your symptom is cranking without starting, it is usually because the solenoid plunger is binding and not pulling the butterfly shut to choke the engine. If it is binding, push it in by hand and try to start. That's a two handed job. The second symptom is the fuel pump sounds loud while it's priming. That means no fuel is getting through the pump. A variety of reasons, but likely the pump is pooped out. Search around the forum for Westerbeke replacement parts. We started a list on suitable parts without the $$$$ red paint applied.
Welcome to the club. Hard to believe this model is becoming a "classic".
 
NateVancouver said:
My engine water light goes on from time to time but I still have water coming out the side, does anyone else get that issue? bad sensor? how serious is that? Shut it down then it goes out.

Nate
Click to expand...
What is an engine water light? what are you looking at? The systems monitor? You are probably looking at the bilge pump light. If you have some aftermarket water flow sensor and light, I'd be real interested in seeing that.
 
370Dancer said:
Couple of things:
Looks like we will hear you before we ever see you ;-)
You will never sell that boat in Florida, but the cushions in the cockpit look very cool

Let's troubleshoot your generator before you go to the trouble of disassembling half your Stbd engine to get the genset out.
First thing I would do is energize the system on the remote panel by putting the start switch in the mid position. Then go to the genset, and push the bypass switch first, observing the linkage between the carb and the choke solenoid. If your symptom is cranking without starting, it is usually because the solenoid plunger is binding and not pulling the butterfly shut to choke the engine. If it is binding, push it in by hand and try to start. That's a two handed job. The second symptom is the fuel pump sounds loud while it's priming. That means no fuel is getting through the pump. A variety of reasons, but likely the pump is pooped out. Search around the forum for Westerbeke replacement parts. We started a list on suitable parts without the $$$$ red paint applied.
Welcome to the club. Hard to believe this model is becoming a "classic".
Click to expand...

Music is a big part of my life. We live in an apartment in the city and I can't play it very loud without the police showing up.. With the 370 I can get away from everyone and be as loud as I want. :)

Thanks for the info, I'll start there first. Are generator parts impossible to get?

Nate
 
370Dancer said:
What is an engine water light? what are you looking at? The systems monitor? You are probably looking at the bilge pump light. If you have some aftermarket water flow sensor and light, I'd be real interested in seeing that.
Click to expand...

I think its a water temperature light, I have one for the port and one for the starboard.

Its on my dash, it doesn't look custom Ill take a picture of it later today.
 
NateVancouver said:
Music is a big part of my life. We live in an apartment in the city and I can't play it very loud without the police showing up.. With the 370 I can get away from everyone and be as loud as I want. :)

Thanks for the info, I'll start there first. Are generator parts impossible to get?

Nate
Click to expand...
nope. Carp Coastal in Florida is a good bet.
There are others search in the electrical forum
 
My emergency start is disconnected does anyone know where that other wire is supposed to go?

Nate
 

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NateVancouver said:
My emergency start is disconnected does anyone know where that other wire is supposed to go?

Nate
Click to expand...
To the wire in the helm that is energized when you hold the middle switch on. I'd check the solenoid first to make sure it's not shorted, which would be a good reason to disconnect it.
take a wire from one of the side connections with the battery wires on it, and touch that bare terminal to see if it engages. You'll hear a click. if it's shorted, it won't click, and that wire will get hot fast. if nothing happens, it's time to replace the solenoid. I'd run a new wire up to get it going again.
 
370Dancer said:
To the wire in the helm that is energized when you hold the middle switch on. I'd check the solenoid first to make sure it's not shorted, which would be a good reason to disconnect it.
take a wire from one of the side connections with the battery wires on it, and touch that bare terminal to see if it engages. You'll hear a click. if it's shorted, it won't click, and that wire will get hot fast. if nothing happens, it's time to replace the solenoid. I'd run a new wire up to get it going again.
Click to expand...

So my emergency start switch is not getting power just tested with multimeter. Probably a bigger issue than just that wire being disconnected.

Could I put power to that terminal briefly to listen for a click?

Nate
 
NateVancouver said:
So my emergency start switch is not getting power just tested with multimeter. Probably a bigger issue than just that wire being disconnected.

Could I put power to that terminal briefly to listen for a click?

Nate
Click to expand...

Sorry I think that is what you said to do. I misread
 
actually it sounds like me recommending that you move the battery cable. What i meant was to jumper another wire from a battery side terminal (either one, since they should both be hot) to the relay terminal.
 
370Dancer said:
actually it sounds like me recommending that you move the battery cable. What i meant was to jumper another wire from a battery side terminal (either one, since they should both be hot) to the relay terminal.
Click to expand...

I jumped it directly from the positive terminal on the battery and a few sparks but no click.. nothing

I think its a dead solenoid. Now that I am home i wish I tried that 'smacking' it trick to see if it would un stick..

I wonder how hard it is to find that part
 
I want to get rid of the battery isolator (photo attached) it causes my house bank to drop half a volt which is huge.

From top down on the battery isolator the connections are

Alternator 1.
Battery 1.
Battery 2.
Alternator 2.

What is the best way to do this? I cant seem to find a solution that deals with a dual engine dual alternator system.

Could I just remove it, separate both battery banks and connect the Alternator 1 lead to the Battery 1 and Alternator 2 to the battery 2 lead?
 

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