Official 370 Sundancer thread

Anyone messes with the water pump for the AC units? I've had, what I thought to be, low flow from the outlets on the side of the hull. So after cleaning the strainer I removed the face plate from the wet end of the pump. Did a little cleaning of algae but otherwise in good shape. But of course I created a new problem. The face plat is now leaking. Seems I might have lost a gasket or oring when washing it off. Can someone tell me if they remember a gasket for the face plate?
On that same note, I still feel like the water flow is low. Think I need to clean the lines. Looking for suggestions on how to go about that...
9961e1438be1b151322fc1a85ec1083c.jpg



1995 370 Sundancer
 
'97 Engine access

We are actively in the market to buy a '97 or '98 Sundancer 370.

I know the '98 has the hydraulic engine hatch that really opens up the engine compartment for good access. When I looked at the '97 engine compartment, it had the pull up engine hatch and I could barely get myself down in the compartment, and don't see how I could reach over to work on the batteries or get to the generator. I almost couldn't see how you could do anything down there if the engines were hot.

I'm 6'4, about 270, so I need some room.

Can anyone who owns a '97 comment on how accessible the engines, batteries, generator, bilge pump, etc. are? I don't want to pay the dealer or a skinny kid to do everything for me.

Thanks.
 
We are actively in the market to buy a '97 or '98 Sundancer 370.

I know the '98 has the hydraulic engine hatch that really opens up the engine compartment for good access. When I looked at the '97 engine compartment, it had the pull up engine hatch and I could barely get myself down in the compartment, and don't see how I could reach over to work on the batteries or get to the generator. I almost couldn't see how you could do anything down there if the engines were hot.

I'm 6'4, about 270, so I need some room.

Can anyone who owns a '97 comment on how accessible the engines, batteries, generator, bilge pump, etc. are? I don't want to pay the dealer or a skinny kid to do everything for me.

Thanks.

I have a 95 with the manual hatch. Not fun to lower down in it, but it's helpful when you need to look around. When you really need to do something in the ER the entire floor lifts out from wall to wall. Making it very accessible. Fairly easy to open up.


1995 370 Sundancer
 
Anyone messes with the water pump for the AC units? I've had, what I thought to be, low flow from the outlets on the side of the hull. So after cleaning the strainer I removed the face plate from the wet end of the pump. Did a little cleaning of algae but otherwise in good shape. But of course I created a new problem. The face plat is now leaking. Seems I might have lost a gasket or oring when washing it off. Can someone tell me if they remember a gasket for the face plate?
On that same note, I still feel like the water flow is low. Think I need to clean the lines. Looking for suggestions on how to go about that...
9961e1438be1b151322fc1a85ec1083c.jpg



1995 370 Sundancer


See Frank Webster's post in this thread for cleaning the lines. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40912-Clogged-Air-Cond-Lines
 
Re: '97 Engine access

I have the 96 370 Sun Dancer. The engine hatch is manual lift but there are 5 panels that come up opening the entire section for access to work.
 
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Anyone know this boat? Thinking of taking a ride sometime this month to take a look. 370's weren't much on our radar (looking in the 340 range) but the repower with 8.1s is appealing as long as I can see service records for it.

EDIT:I guess you need a link lol

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/1995-sea-ray-370-sundancer-103078808

A 340? Really? Hmmm....A 370 with 120 hr 8.1's? It's all about the beam - oh ya, the 8.1's are a huge bonus. Night and day between a 340 and 370.
 
A 340? Really? Hmmm....A 370 with 120 hr 8.1's? It's all about the beam - oh ya, the 8.1's are a huge bonus. Night and day between a 340 and 370.

Exactly why it caught my eye. 2000-2002 340s with 7.4's vs this boat with the 8.1's and some other goodies. It's hard not to give it a serious look at that price and the work done. Owner just confirmed newer canvas and work was done by a shop that warrantied the motors for 5 years through merc. Light hours since the repower.
 
Hi there,
So I have run several cables from the helm to the lower salon...probably too many..LOL The only tough spot is actually just to the starboard side of the helm station. Take the white access plate off that is down at your feet and you can lay down while sliding your arm into that hole to reach the tough spot to help feed the wire though. The easiest way to do the new pull is to get some waxed string or "jute" and connect the old remote wire to it. Make sure it is a solid tie so that when you pull the cable through from the salon it doesn't pull off. Give yourself about 30-40'...more i better than less as you can leave it in their for later use and pull cables either way.

There is an access hatch in the starboard cabinets above the salon seating, albeit small, but it is a real plus for feeding the wires. You will need to remove the tv for the easiest access so just get prepared to take apart things to make it easier to access and install the new. I just finished installing a new Fusion UD-750 at the helm with 2 remotes and I had to run the rca's down to the salon to connect to the amps that are all located under the salon settee.

If you want to add a 2nd remote in the cockpit area you won't need to access the radar arch. I ran my wires along the port side where ALL of the other wires are stashed and simply pulled it through to the starboard storage locker that is behind the step seat. I mounted it just below the actual arch but above the bolster. I can send pics if you think it will help.

If you have some patience, you can do it all yourself..the toughest part is the feed as I said along side the helm, it is a tight hole to get it through.

Hi,

Could you advise what access panel you are talking about at the helm? I only have the fuse panel. It's there another access panel I'm not swift enought to find?

Apprecaite your help. Trying to get a remote for my Fushion through..... pain in the.....

THanks.

cheers,

Johann
 
Hi,

Could you advise what access panel you are talking about at the helm? I only have the fuse panel. It's there another access panel I'm not swift enought to find?

Apprecaite your help. Trying to get a remote for my Fushion through..... pain in the.....

THanks.

cheers,

Johann

The best access at the helm for the raceway tubes that I've found is behind the sub speaker. The tubes come out right there.


1995 370 Sundancer
 
Re: '97 Engine access

Hi All. Quick question on the emergency start. Port side, (1) new battery, no issues. Starboard batteries (2) are dead after a day on the hook with fridge and stereo. They need to be replaced, obviously. I use the emergency start to get STB started (after port side is up and running) and it fires right up. My question is am I hurting/damaging anything on the STB side? Starter, solenoids, alternator, etc? I'm thinking of waiting until the season is over and replace both batts in the springtime.
 
Re: '97 Engine access

Hi All. Quick question on the emergency start. Port side, (1) new battery, no issues. Starboard batteries (2) are dead after a day on the hook with fridge and stereo. They need to be replaced, obviously. I use the emergency start to get STB started (after port side is up and running) and it fires right up. My question is am I hurting/damaging anything on the STB side? Starter, solenoids, alternator, etc? I'm thinking of waiting until the season is over and replace both batts in the springtime.

You're not hurting anything .... just living on borrowed time
You could also charge via battery charger and genny, it will just take a bit longer but won't leave you stranded
 
Still looking for ideas on how to update the coffee maker with either a newer looking one or some other use for that space. Any thoughts?


1995 370 Sundancer
 
Re: '97 Engine access

Two batteries, both dual purpose on stb side getting replaced with one deep cell and one starter battery. Which way do I piggy back them? Starter battery then hang the deep cell off that? Or deep cell first then hang starter off deep cell Batt?
 
Re: '97 Engine access

Two batteries, both dual purpose on stb side getting replaced with one deep cell and one starter battery. Which way do I piggy back them? Starter battery then hang the deep cell off that? Or deep cell first then hang starter off deep cell Batt?

They are in parallel. Won't make any appreciable difference. Not sure what kind of service life you might affect by mixing technologies on the same circuit. If you seriously hang out on 12v for long periods, consider creating a house bank with the 2 deep cycles, and a starting bank with the starting batteries. charging that could get complicated
 
Anyone messes with the water pump for the AC units? I've had, what I thought to be, low flow from the outlets on the side of the hull. So after cleaning the strainer I removed the face plate from the wet end of the pump. Did a little cleaning of algae but otherwise in good shape. But of course I created a new problem. The face plat is now leaking. Seems I might have lost a gasket or oring when washing it off. Can someone tell me if they remember a gasket for the face plate?
On that same note, I still feel like the water flow is low. Think I need to clean the lines. Looking for suggestions on how to go about that... https://uploads.tapatalk

No gasket that I recall. Make sure the spindle is fully seated and not holding the assembly apart. These pump motors will eventually overheat (usually from crud getting thru the strainer and making it into the water cooling pipes) and slow down. I'd check for flow from the pump head without hoses hooked up first. If that's good, then clean them lines. The one going to the forward cabin unit may need replacing. I've done mine twice in 18 years. Southern living.... I used Frank W.'s techniques and made a rig from a winterizing tank. Works GREAT! Hunt around, I probably have a post on it.
 
Anyone messes with the water pump for the AC units? I've had, what I thought to be, low flow from the outlets on the side of the hull. So after cleaning the strainer I removed the face plate from the wet end of the pump. Did a little cleaning of algae but otherwise in good shape. But of course I created a new problem. The face plat is now leaking. Seems I might have lost a gasket or oring when washing it off. Can someone tell me if they remember a gasket for the face plate?
On that same note, I still feel like the water flow is low. Think I need to clean the lines. Looking for suggestions on how to go about that... https://uploads.tapatalk

No gasket that I recall. Make sure the spindle is fully seated and not holding the assembly apart. These pump motors will eventually overheat (usually from crud getting thru the strainer and making it into the water cooling pipes) and slow down. I'd check for flow from the pump head without hoses hooked up first. If that's good, then clean them lines. The one going to the forward cabin unit may need replacing. I've done mine twice in 18 years. Southern living.... I used Frank W.'s techniques and made a rig from a winterizing tank. Works GREAT! Hunt around, I probably have a post on it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the suggestions. After reading thru all the posts I decided to just start with a basic flush with the garden hose connected to each line. Major improvement in flow. Also installed the clear tubing on the thru hull outlets and cleaned off the rust with some CLR.
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/b964d18ccdcc50a4d9a454c5fc901b50.jpg
Still would like to do the acid flush to see if it improves heat exchange but I'll leave that to a pro this winter. Satisfied for now. Thanks again.


1995 370 Sundancer
 
Of course I cant go in the engine room without thinking about the next project. Has anyone else had issue with the depth reading from the datamarine "Dart" display unit? Mine tends to drop the depth reading fairly often but speed and temp still fine. From the posts I can find, it may be a transducer. Are these in the pic both for the datamarine or perhaps one is for my raymarine c120? They both appear to be factory so thinking my c120 transducer is hidden somewhere else.
d31de4d1a5bdec29777f0af1d2fb9eec.jpg

Assuming they're both for the datamarine, anyone know if they both have to be replaced or if one is specifically for the depth and the other for speed & temp?
And anyone just replaced the whole system with something similar?


1995 370 Sundancer
 

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