Official 350 Thread

Hi All, While i have the engines out I plan to install all new risers and manifolds. The came in this week. My back hurts moving these around. I decided to go all Mercury OEM Units with new grade 8 bolts. Only want to do this once before being place in the hole.
 

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Here is a pic of my hot water heater and plumbing. The first problem is, the gray line in our boats is 1/2", all of the new colored line and fittings is 15mm. Whale makes the adapters to go from 1/2" to 15mm which you can see I used those adapters and spliced in the colored lines so I could use the new style whale fittings for my heater as the old oem fittings leaked plus I needed a new check valve. Let me know and I can get you part numbers for everything. I also plumbed the relief valve into the rear sump box that is in the engine compartment for the condensation line on the salon AC unit.
Heres a picture of my age leaky Atwood. and with it removed.
 

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These?
https://marinepartssource.com/stem-adapter-1-2-in-npt-male-to-15mm-whale-wx1524b.html

The instruction manual that came with my Kuuma say's the female ports are 1/2" NPT. Are you saying our boats are 15MM? I pulled the check valve and male to male fitting from my Atwood just in case.
When i was referring to 15mm, i waa referring to your water line size. The threaded fittings in the tank are 1/2" NPT. Below is the list of whale part numbers i used.

Whale-WX1524B - This is the non check valve fitting for the hot side of heater
Whale-WX1503B - Elbows to go onto the fittings. You will need 2 of these.
Whale-WX1534B - This is the check valve fitting for the hot side
Whale-WX1528B - This is the 1/2"-15mm adapters you need. You need 2 of them

Then you will need a couple feet of the red and blue 15mm marine pex. There may be a easier way to do all of this, but this is what i found to be the most reliable and easiest so you don't have to worry about anything leaking.
 
Bad news received today. My machine shop guy (Andy) called this afternoon to notify me that both 454's for our 350 cruiser are Beyond Economical Repair (Junkers) and to come and get them.
Both cranks, 1 block (previously sleeved), both engines need full set of connecting rods, pistons as well as the normal springs, cam, lifters and timing sets. My machine shop guy recommended a couple of crate motors from mass builders such as ATK. He shared I can purchase locally at Summit racing. Any thoughts on his recommendations?
 
Bad news received today. My machine shop guy (Andy) called this afternoon to notify me that both 454's for our 350 cruiser are Beyond Economical Repair (Junkers) and to come and get them.
Both cranks, 1 block (previously sleeved), both engines need full set of connecting rods, pistons as well as the normal springs, cam, lifters and timing sets. My machine shop guy recommended a couple of crate motors from mass builders such as ATK. He shared I can purchase locally at Summit racing. Any thoughts on his recommendations?
If it was me personally, I would look into the Mercury/Mercruiser reman program and see if they still offer that in a factory remaned long block. If you shoot me serial # I'll check tomorrow and see if they are still offering them. That will give you a factory product with a warranty. I've never dealt with the builders you mentioned, but despite what others will tell you there is some important differences between a auto long block versus a marine long block.
 
Thanks for this,
So you know I spent all day back and forth with Clayton and others at Michigan motors on our two
Non-economical to rebuild trashed 454's dilemma.
So I've learned a lot in the last couple of day's
The Gen VI new crate engines are not direct bolt ins for the pre 1996 454's. Why you ask?
1. Flywheel has to be replaced. $150 per engine
2. Distributor drive gear replacement required with Thunderbolt IV or V ignition systems. Michigan Motorz recommends Delco Voyager EST ignition kits for $489 each.
3. No provision for mechanical fuel pump on 454 Gen 5 or 6 so electric fuel pump conversion kits required. Haven't be quoted a price thus far but suspect $250+ per motor.
4. Pulley on end of harmonic balancer is 1/2" to 3/4" longer on the Gen 6 which means modifications using spacers required on raw water pump, alternator brackets.
5. Bolt sizing differences on brackets to heads for accessories are 7/16"
This is what I know thus far. I'm not afraid of item 1 thru 3 but the hack job concerning the accessories required might be a show stopper.
6. Uncertainty by many I've spoke to on other items I might run into for conversion to Vortec.
I did order electric choke replacement carbs but know Gen 6's don't have provisions for intake manifold crossover heat (Mechanical Chokes) so I'm good on the carbs.
I'm leaning toward a quality Mark IV set of engines. Not sure MM's is the answer for this. They have some complaints on BBB on quality and stepping up to the plate. Anyone want to chime in? Feel free to sell me on the best option for my toasted big blocks.
 
Thanks for this,
So you know I spent all day back and forth with Clayton and others at Michigan motors on our two
Non-economical to rebuild trashed 454's dilemma.
So I've learned a lot in the last couple of day's
The Gen VI new crate engines are not direct bolt ins for the pre 1996 454's. Why you ask?
1. Flywheel has to be replaced. $150 per engine
2. Distributor drive gear replacement required with Thunderbolt IV or V ignition systems. Michigan Motorz recommends Delco Voyager EST ignition kits for $489 each.
3. No provision for mechanical fuel pump on 454 Gen 5 or 6 so electric fuel pump conversion kits required. Haven't be quoted a price thus far but suspect $250+ per motor.
4. Pulley on end of harmonic balancer is 1/2" to 3/4" longer on the Gen 6 which means modifications using spacers required on raw water pump, alternator brackets.
5. Bolt sizing differences on brackets to heads for accessories are 7/16"
This is what I know thus far. I'm not afraid of item 1 thru 3 but the hack job concerning the accessories required might be a show stopper.
6. Uncertainty by many I've spoke to on other items I might run into for conversion to Vortec.
I did order electric choke replacement carbs but know Gen 6's don't have provisions for intake manifold crossover heat (Mechanical Chokes) so I'm good on the carbs.
I'm leaning toward a quality Mark IV set of engines. Not sure MM's is the answer for this. They have some complaints on BBB on quality and stepping up to the plate. Anyone want to chime in? Feel free to sell me on the best option for my toasted big blocks.
After learning what you have learned now, I would bow out of going with the VI...I was on board until you discovered the difference on balancer length, it would be hard to space all of the belt driven accessories without hacking it up...Time to drop back and punt, you taught me some things through this. Working on primarily newer product on a day to day basis I don't run into these situations. But now we know.
 
After learning what you have learned now, I would bow out of going with the VI...I was on board until you discovered the difference on balancer length, it would be hard to space all of the belt driven accessories without hacking it up...Time to drop back and punt, you taught me some things through this. Working on primarily newer product on a day to day basis I don't run into these situations. But now we know.
I'm learning that it seems most lake marinas and even coastal shops that take on older boats simply look for ready to go exchanged bolt in options (Quick and Easy). That is quick haul outs, hack installs and splash. One off decent rebuilds can be found but these Mark IV's seem to be getting harder and harder to find.
I get that the marina shops struggle off season. My perception is reliance upon big boats to carry them through the winter. Further to my point is quality rebuilds are hard to find..... This seems to be where I'm at and not happy. I guess I should have taken the Marina shop I had to the pre-buy a little more serious as they found milky oil on Stbd and Dark oil on port? Live and learn. Now I need to identify a shop whom builds quality Mark IV marinized engines.. I'm still leaning toward Michigan Motors for the remans.
 
I'm learning that it seems most lake marinas and even coastal shops that take on older boats simply look for ready to go exchanged bolt in options (Quick and Easy). That is quick haul outs, hack installs and splash. One off decent rebuilds can be found but these Mark IV's seem to be getting harder and harder to find.
I get that the marina shops struggle off season. My perception is reliance upon big boats to carry them through the winter. Further to my point is quality rebuilds are hard to find..... This seems to be where I'm at and not happy. I guess I should have taken the Marina shop I had to the pre-buy a little more serious as they found milky oil on Stbd and Dark oil on port? Live and learn. Now I need to identify a shop whom builds quality Mark IV marinized engines.. I'm still leaning toward Michigan Motors for the remans.
I agree, your right in all of your points. And yes, the milky oil on the stbd definitely should had been investigated further..and dark oil is a sign of neglect. But, once you get done you will know what you have got and that's the positive here. I still think MM would be a good option in this scenario. I know you've found negative reviews, but people that have a GOOD experience rarely take the time to leave a review, typically just those with bad experiences.
 
I like the fact the Mich Motorz does all in house machining. I don't think they run the long blocks on the Dyno before it leaves.
Dyno testing would involve slaving a manifold and distributor. This means I would have to leave it up to the marina to get engines running quickly for flat tappet break in procedure. Sure wish there was a way to make the Gen 6 work. I'm not giving up. Looking up accessory brackets from a 97 Carb version on Mercruiserparts.com as I write. Still in talks with MM on best options.
 
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In effort to keep this thread alive I'm posting the progress on our aged and very neglected 90 350.
We purchased our 90 in 2019. Since then we are constantly try to improve her. Thus far we have updated as follows.
  • All new vacuflush hoses in engine compartment and removed overboard discharge pump. New dometic duckbill valves and diagram installed last April. (Crappy situation)
  • New Cabella 30AMP 3 channel battery charger
  • Replaced mostly dead quicksilver (Generac) generator with a Kohler 5ecd upgraded to 7.1
  • Removed the forward berth 12000 BTU (R22) Cruiseairr to a 16000BTU (410A) Wabasto. Huge improvement!
  • Replaced the Windlass (Good) non chain jawed unit to a (Good) free fall with 20' chain. Also installed remote control switch (Handheld) with a 45 pound plow with 200' of line. We typically pay out 80' in season and have a smaller stern anchor during multiple cruiser tie ups.
  • Replaced both bilge vent blowers
  • Replaced both galley and head vent blowers
  • Removed auto pilot and all 90 electronics from helm. Installed carbon fiber blanking plates on dash
  • Replaced leaking water heater with Camco Kuuma 6 gallon unit
  • Fresh water pump replaced and a secondary pump plumb in with switch for redundancy
  • All cabin lights replaced with LED Bulbs. Also Installed super bright bilge lighting along with led lighting in anchor bay.
  • Removed junk mark IV 454's and ordered new crate Generation 6 454's from Mich Motorz.
  • All new Mercury OEM exhaust manifolds and risers
  • New electric choke carberators
  • Electric fuel pumps
  • New engine to trans couplers (New rubber non spring style)
  • All new wire bound raw sea water hoses from cocks to strainers and from strainers onward.
  • New extended swim platform waiting to be installed once engines in place.
I'll be posting my wish list in coming months as well. Lets keep this thread alive.
 
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I'll do the same here, I purchased my 91' July 2020. The boat was basically a 1 owner, 500 original hours on mains and was 620ish on generator when I purchase. Felt I got a good "Virgin" boat, but it needed gone through and updated. I have focused on brining all mechanicals up to date first and foremost.

Done so far since purchase

* Replaced failed oem fridge with new norcold unit

* Changed control board, regulator, and full service on OE Quicksilver Genny. Put around 100hrs on it, hoping I can make it last.

*Pulled starboard engine, replaced drive plate and installed new Hurth transmission (Had a bad leak)

*Replaced all inlet water lines

*repacked both rudders and shafts

*Replaced original water heater with new Kuma unit

*Completed full service on both mains including impellers, all belts, etc.

* Flushed coolant and changed circulating pump while I had starboard engine out.

*Installed water shut off valve to the cockpit items (sink, wash down) so I could wintertize just those items and leave the rest of the system useable.

*Replaced both bilge blowers

* It is in the middle of receiving a full stripping of pin stripes, wet sand complete boat, compound and polish

*in the middle of changing all canvas to black sunbrella and am having a new eisenglass in closure made.

*Shampooed all of the interior

Items that will be done before "season" starts

*Replacing audio with new Fusion head unit, and JL speakers

*install Simrad nss9 Evo 3 in dash & new thru hull transducer

*Hang tv in salon/galley area

*Have bottom re done

*Going to go through Vacuflush and "service" the system.

I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, But we love the boat and can't wait for March and the weather begin to start breaking. Enjoy this thread to share ideas.
 
*install Simrad nss9 Evo 3 in dash & new thru hull transducer

What's the primary use for a Simrad nss9 Evo 3 do? depth or fish finding?

Also what model Norcold unit did you install? Does it have defrost capabilities in Freezer?
 
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What's the primary use for a Simrad nss9 Evo 3 do? depth or fish finding?

Also what model Norcold unit did you install? Does it have defrost capabilities in Freezer?
Primary use for the Simrad is having a chart plotter and depth basically, we plan to do a couple weekend trips this summer to a couple different lakes on the Cumberland river system and would like to have both. Replaced original Norcold with the DE0041. Was suppose to be the "direct replacement" for the OE but its not quite that simple. Once I have my frame out finished to make it fit right I'll share the pics.
 
Thanks, So your connected to other lakes by locks? I can't imagine our boats being trailer-ed unless that is a one time deal to sell.
I cleaned 4 75' pine trees from the 4 strainer baskets today. Almost needs to be a monthly chore.
Is this a good deal for 10ft. length of 3/4" hardwall? Overtons
The march A/C pump hose is next to be replaced for the boat sinkable hoses.
 
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Thanks, So your connected to other lakes by locks? I can't imagine our boats being trailer-ed unless that is a one time deal to sell.
I cleaned 4 75' pine trees from the 4 strainer baskets today. Almost needs to be a monthly chore.
Is this a good deal for 10ft. length of 3/4" hardwall? Overtons
The march A/C pump hose is next to be replaced for the boat sinkable hoses.
Yes sir, Old Hickory lake is part of the Cumberland river system. You can leave OHL and go to the gulf or the Great Lakes if you'd like. And I agree, I wouldn't want to haul it! During the summer I try to clean mine monthly as we get the hydrilla grass and it can find it's way in them. And yes sir, that's a fair price. I need to replace mine as well this winter, it's original.
 
I splashed our little go fast boat on Percy Priest several years ago due to months of bad weather during peak season here in Acworth. GA,
I should have splashed her on old hickory lake. live and learn.
 

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