OFFICIAL 350/370 DA Thread (2008 or newer)

Pilot,
just looking to see some of the fix's you did as I have the same boat with most of he same issues. Right now I'm working the stereo issues. I found all 3 amps in the mid state room starboard lower "cubby". My rear speakers work but with very little volume. The amp that controls those two is only a 50 watt amp. ( you have to unscrew the panel and its mounted on the backside). My other amp for the 4 cockpit speakers just sounds awful and I'm not sure what to replace it with. The speakers are all fine. Trying to figure out why sea ray installed all of those green "peripheral" load reducers in the system as well. Any good suggestions for replacements would be welcomed. Not in stalling a sub/amp. Just want my 4 cockpit speakers and 2 transom speaker to sound "ok". Don't need the best on the river.

How did you wire/switch the horn in the arch?
Thank you!!!!
 
Also...does anyone know how to get at the cabin lights to change a bulb? The main lights in the ceiling. Thanks.
 
wjglampe

The rear speakers I assume are the ones mounted on the swim platform. They typically dissentegrate over time leaving only the cone, thus the lack of loudnesss. I suggest taking them out and inspecting. I ended up replacing mine with some very good and relatively inexpensive Marine JBL speakers. They also have a nice 160 watt marine amp.

As for the cockpit speakers, the amp was the issue with mine and it started crackling like crazy. So I replaced the amp with a car amplifier. You don't need a marine amp for the interior,, they are underpowered and costs a lot more. Go with a nice 5-600 watt amp and mount it exactly as your old one. I would photo the wiring harnesses or at least mark all the wires for ease of replacing.

As for the horn, you'll need to buy an electric trumpet horn ( I used a dual trumpet) and also a good quality waterproof switch for the horn, drill and mount it I suggest on your lower dashboard so as to not be in the way. You CANNOT connect the new horn to the existing electronic switch as it is incompatible and will cause damage. connect 2 wires (@ 2 foot in length directly to the fusebox, look for an open slot and put in proper amp fuse. drill and mount the unit on top of the starboard side of the arch with enough forward angle to prevent it collecting rainwater. Make sure and use the proper guage wiring and drill a hole along side where its mounted. Fish the wire to the cockpit console and using connectors on all wires, connect the horn wires to the switch on one side and the wires from the fuse box to the other side of the horn switch.

Good luck.
 
Pilot,
Thank You. The amp for the cockpit speakers, 5 channel 600W? Which one did you use? Brand?
 
My port fuel gauge is out again, Marine max has replacd that sender unit back in 2010 and 2013. Has anyone else experienced this and found the culprit? Thanks
 
Anybody know how to remove the transom seat? We'd like some extra storage space for extended cruises, but I don't see an obvious way to take it out.
Thanks!
 
erdoc38 said:
Anybody know how to remove the transom seat? We'd like some extra storage space for extended cruises, but I don't see an obvious way to take it out.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

You know you can fold the backrest forward and pack stuff in there, right?
 
JVII is correct BUT not much stuff! That seat fills up the cavity. I get an extra shore power cord and hose/brush/handle all laying flat on the bottom with no room to spare.
 
Not sure, been a while, but maybe a "Kicker" brand. There's lots of brands. Go with a 4-5 channel with high wattage, 600 or more.

Good luck.
 
Yes, I know that the backrest folds forward, but I was hoping to take the seat off to store a deflated dinghy and extra cords, hoses, etc back there.
 
Its a defective electronic sending unit product that Searay used. My mechanic says that most of them out there are not working correctly and only way to fix it for good is to replace with mechanical floats. If it were a car, it would/should be a re-call item.
My solution is: Keep the tanks pretty full, log the hours of usage and drink more.
 
Re: OFFICIAL 350/370 SD Site (2008 or newer)

erdoc38 said:
The biggest problem we've had so far was the trim tabs not operating together (either both up or both down). They finally tracked it down to wrong programming in the electronics module in the bilge, and that took care of it.
Click to expand...

erdoc - not sure you monitor this anymore but my boat seems to have the same problem and I would like to get it fixed. Any chance you have more information on the fix as I would like to get this done but don't want to spend a lot of $ having folks chase the problem if you maybe have the solution. Thanks so much!
 
Pilot said:
Its a defective electronic sending unit product that Searay used. My mechanic says that most of them out there are not working correctly and only way to fix it for good is to replace with mechanical floats. If it were a car, it would/should be a re-call item.
My solution is: Keep the tanks pretty full, log the hours of usage and drink more.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I do. The port sender/gauge works perfectly. The Starboard has read empty for as long as I can remember. I have been able to gauge remaining fuel with pretty good accuracy, just by knowing hours run, since last fill up.

It would be nice if both worked, but honestly I think I'd fallback to the above method, as it works so well..
 
Re: OFFICIAL 350/370 SD Site (2008 or newer)

There is a computer module in the engine compartment that wasn't programmed correctly from the factory. If I recall, it is silver, mounted on the forward bulkhead on the starboard side (where the main electrical panel, battery charger, etc is mounted). The dealer had to replace with a new one because it wasn't something they could program. They had replaced nearly every part of the trim tab system until they traced it to the computer module. If that is your problem, I would force Sea Ray to fix it no charge since it was something they screwed up. Probably should have been a recall.
 
Anyone else have fuel gauge issues and a fix?
Sea Ray had already replaced the electronic units with mechanical ones I was told. Thanks
 
Re: OFFICIAL 350/370 SD Site (2008 or newer)

erdoc38 said:
There is a computer module in the engine compartment that wasn't programmed correctly from the factory. If I recall, it is silver, mounted on the forward bulkhead on the starboard side (where the main electrical panel, battery charger, etc is mounted). The dealer had to replace with a new one because it wasn't something they could program. They had replaced nearly every part of the trim tab system until they traced it to the computer module. If that is your problem, I would force Sea Ray to fix it no charge since it was something they screwed up. Probably should have been a recall.
Click to expand...

Perfect and thanks! That was my biggest concern that I would basically pay for a new trim tab system for something simple. I will call sea ray. Thanks so much
 
reelnauti said:
Anyone else have fuel gauge issues and a fix?
Sea Ray had already replaced the electronic units with mechanical ones I was told. Thanks
Click to expand...

Issues - yes, fix - no. Seems like a recall item if you ask me. I don't think I have met an owner yet who hasn't or currently has issues.
 
I'll ask again. Anyone know how to open or get at the cabin ceiling light bulbs? The larger adjustable ones that run fore and aft on both sides of the cabin. I have one that is out and for the life of me I can't figure out how to get at the bulb. Thanks!
 
wjglampe said:
I'll ask again. Anyone know how to open or get at the cabin ceiling light bulbs? The larger adjustable ones that run fore and aft on both sides of the cabin. I have one that is out and for the life of me I can't figure out how to get at the bulb. Thanks!
Click to expand...

They are very hard to remove, but the lens with the metal trim ring pulls down from the ceiling. We've had to replace one bulb and it was a big PIA to pull the trim ring/lens off. Slide your fingers between the trim and the headliner and pull directly down.
 
Thanks. I tried that before but felt like it was going to break. I'll try again with a couple screwdrivers one on each side.
 
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