OFFICIAL 350/370 DA Thread (2008 or newer)

[stg099]

Thanks - we decided to walk away, but found another! Has stern drives with Axius (so it may have a different feel than yours with v-drives), wish us luck!

Good luck! We are loving ours. Great size and layout for a couple. And with the stern drives you could throw a party in the engine room!

 

[serial_sea_ray]

Good luck! We are loving ours. Great size and layout for a couple. And with the stern drives you could throw a party in the engine room!

Thanks!! This one has been in storage for ~5 years (though well cared for it appears in the process), but the out of water survey went great. We'll see what happens as they try to prep it for launch - engines and generators have less than 100 hours.

Anyone have advice on things to watch carefully in the sea trial (for a boat that was dry docked this long)? Has Axius with the Bravo 3s.

 

[stg099]

I'd keep an eye on seals. Transom seal, drive lube usage etc. in addition, I would assume impellers would need a looking at relatively soon due to the length of time they've been sitting. Best of luck on the survey, hope all goes well!

 

[stg099]

A few electronics questions for those with the factory installed raymarine MFD.

Depth on the MFD. My boat came with the Raymarine c97, however there does not appear to be depth information on the chartplotter, I've been using the smartcraft guages for depth. There are 2 transducers in the forward area of the bilge, one labeled smartcraft and both similar looking airmar type housings. I'm curious if the raymarine may be wired to a transducer but it requires me to power up one of the accessory switches in order for it to be "seen" by the MFD. I suppose that of the 2 transducers one may be the paddle wheel and one the depth/water temp, but wanted to be sure and make sure I'm not missing anything.


Autopilot: I'm looking at adding autopilot this off season. The boat is a V-drive with hydraulic steering. I'm curious if this install is within the realm of a capable do-it-yourselfer or better left to the pros? I'm looking at the raymarine evolution AP so that it can tie into the existing Raymarine MFD/Radar. The only tricky bit that I see is the placement and mounting of the AP pump and tying into the hydraulic lines/bleeding the system. Anyone added an AP or had one added with any feedback or words of advice for me? Worthwhile investment?

Thanks,
John

 

[serial_sea_ray]

I'd keep an eye on seals. Transom seal, drive lube usage etc. in addition, I would assume impellers would need a looking at relatively soon due to the length of time they've been sitting. Best of luck on the survey, hope all goes well!

Thanks - Marina is going through the boat this week to get it in a condition they think is acceptable, so we'll see. Raised impellers to the service manager (who has maintained it since new), he agreed, but said he knows they were replaced in '14 before it hit dry dock. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[stg099]

Greetings all! Anyone know where I could find the fuses or breakers associated with the light circuits on the switch pads? I had a wire come loose on the port forward bilge light fixture and it must've popped a breaker or fuse. On the old EIM systems there were breakers integrated into the boxes. Just not sure where to look on this boat for a breaker or fuse specific to the bilge lights.

Thanks
John

 

[stg099]

Greetings all! Anyone know where I could find the fuses or breakers associated with the light circuits on the switch pads? I had a wire come loose on the port forward bilge light fixture and it must've popped a breaker or fuse. On the old EIM systems there were breakers integrated into the boxes. Just not sure where to look on this boat for a breaker or fuse specific to the bilge lights.

Thanks
John

Solved the problem. For anyone that has the same issue, the circuit turn itself off if there is an issue, once the issue is fixed you can press and hold the affected button for 5-6 seconds and it will reset. All good now!

 

[cstinehour]

Solved the problem. For anyone that has the same issue, the circuit turn itself off if there is an issue, once the issue is fixed you can press and hold the affected button for 5-6 seconds and it will reset. All good now!

stg099, Can you send a picture of which button you are pushing? I have breakers, and I don't see buttons.

 

[stg099]

stg099, Can you send a picture of which button you are pushing? I have breakers, and I don't see buttons.

Sorry for the delayed reply. My 2013 doesn't have the typical "EIM" boxes with the breaker buttons down each side. Instead it has what looks like a stereo amplifier in the bilge called a "Powercore 210". With this unit, if a "breaker" is tripped it's done electronically, so just holding down the affected circuit's "button" on the helm for 5 seconds resets it. I looked up the power core manual online after grabbing the model number off the unit in my boat.

 

[cstinehour]

Sorry for the delayed reply. My 2013 doesn't have the typical "EIM" boxes with the breaker buttons down each side. Instead it has what looks like a stereo amplifier in the bilge called a "Powercore 210". With this unit, if a "breaker" is tripped it's done electronically, so just holding down the affected circuit's "button" on the helm for 5 seconds resets it. I looked up the power core manual online after grabbing the model number off the unit in my boat.

No problem! I appreciate your feedback.

 

[stg099]

Figured I’d drop in with a few updates to our 370 thus far since the season ended. First up was the teak cockpit table. Any water or drinks set down immediately created rings in the raw teak so I sanded and varnished the table with total boat Gleam. I ended up with 6 coats total and am pleased with the result.

Next was replacing the cockpit refrigerator which ran but didn’t cool, stainless was in stock at the time while the black was back ordered so we went with the domestic CRX50. It was a drop in replacement except for the ac and dc sides being reversed but there’s anought cord back there that it’s not an issue. Had to rearrange the wire bundle behind and right of the fridge due to this one being a little more square in the corner but nothing that a few wire ties couldn’t handle.

Also got the port side polished and waxed yesterday. Slow going but thankfully didn’t need to compound as there were no signs of oxidation.

next up is to polish and wax the starboard side and figure out the parts needed to add the cockpit tv. Has anyone added a cockpit to in the factory location? I’m curious where the splitter for the glomex is located so I can tie into the antenna.

 

[Curtis Hook]

Boat looks great. I want to do that to my table also. Did you do the bottom also? I was thinking when it’s flipped up you can see the other side

 

[stg099]

Boat looks great. I want to do that to my table also. Did you do the bottom also? I was thinking when it’s flipped up you can see the other side

I actually started on the bottom side so that any runs from the topside would be less obvious. I did the bottom start to finish then flipped it to do the top and sides. I took the table apart to do the work. Pics attached.

 

[stg099]

Question on the drawer fridge in the cabin. Mine only seems to work on 12v, so if I turn the battery solenoids off when I leave the boat (which I tend to do) the drawer fridge kicks off. Is this consistent with your boats? If not I assume I need to pull the fridge and see if it has a 120v adapter and if so if the GFCI is tripped or something.

Thanks,
John

 

[cstinehour]

Mine is a 12v. The big fridge is a 110/12V.

 

[stg099]

Mine is a 12v. The big fridge is a 110/12V.

thank you, nice to know that’s how it was designed and that I don’t have an issue.

 

[cstinehour]

This is all the information I have on my pull out fridge.

 

[Three Seasons]

View attachment 96097
This is all the information I have on my pull out fridge.

After owning the boat for the 1st month I noticed the same thing - that the drawer fridge only works on 12V. I did some research and found the drawer frig is available AC/DC like the other fridges on the boat. I found & purchased an Isotherm AC/DC control unit from Isotherm Parts (noted above) and installed it. The control unit was about $240 and required some modifications because it is larger. The job is about a 7 out of 10 because you must remove both fridges and comfortable with wiring. So glad I did this, it works awesome with no temp variations.

 

[stg099]

This is exactly what I’d like to do to my drawer fridge, thank you for posting this! Per your experience, is the new module primarily plug and play? Is there an unused AC plug to plug it in behind the cabin fridge or did you have to wire a new AC outlet in?

 

[Three Seasons]

Yes, I used the available plug behind the galley fridge to power the A/C for the new drawer fridge control unit. Isotherm parts.com was helpful with the install wiring information. As I recall the larger A/C -D/C control unit required a double sided tape and zip tie install modification. Here’s a pic but not the final install.