Official 330 Sundancer Thread

I've been scouring this page and there is so much information here, and I'm grateful for it. That being said I recently had a compression test done on 97 330DA w/454's w/approx. 700hrs I am looking to purchase. The compression numbers are as follows:

P - 160, 160, 150, 160, 130, 155, 155, 160
S - 155, 150, 145, 135, 150, 150, 150, 150

The compression test was done cold, and the mechanic recommended a leak down test on #3 on the port side, but he didn't say anything more than that on the report and I have't been able to speak with him.

Does anyone have any insight into why a leak down test would be needed on that cylinder only? Additionally, does the variance in the numbers across all cylinders concern anyone?

Thanks
 
According to Popular Mechanics, healthy engines should have compression over 100 psi per cylinder, with no more than 10 percent variation between the highest and lowest readings. I would be concerned about the 130 reading but have no idea why #3 Port (150) needs further investigation based on the data unless the mechanic saw that cylinder wasn't holding compression. Maybe the non-numbered results list is in firing order and not in cylinder number order.
 
Latest project

removed stripes and added new style badges.
Saverio
Love the new badges. I’ve been wanting to do the same. How do you remove and install them? Are the originals just epoxied on?
 
I went to start the genset and found the battery dead. I thought my 3 bank charger had gone bad but upon investigation I found that the third bank had never been hooked up to the gen battery. Were they never hooked up or did I discover that my boat originally did not have a genset?
 
According to Popular Mechanics, healthy engines should have compression over 100 psi per cylinder, with no more than 10 percent variation between the highest and lowest readings. I would be concerned about the 130 reading but have no idea why #3 Port (150) needs further investigation based on the data unless the mechanic saw that cylinder wasn't holding compression. Maybe the non-numbered results list is in firing order and not in cylinder number order.
The Mechanic indicated that #3 port cylinder wasn't holding compression. Thanks for the input.
 
Hi all
I have a 1997 330DA with water trapped inside the hull under the cabin. Resulting in wet floor in the aft cabin and water leaking in to the «floor compartment» that holds the shower sump. I would like to drain this water, but there is no access to the hull-compartments holding the water.
Anyone knows/have a drawing of the hull structure of the 330 DA? I cant find it in the owners resources om searay website.
It would be wery helpfull for me to understand the structure seeking where the water is entering/traweling inside the hull to fix the leak, and for cutting drain holes to empty the trapped water.
 
Do not cut drain holes as the cabin is sealed from the engine compartment, are you sure the shower pump is working inside the drain box?
 
You can always buy a cheap mini sump pump from home depot till you find the problem
 
Do not cut drain holes as the cabin is sealed from the engine compartment, are you sure the shower pump is working inside the drain box?
Thank you for the response:) the drainholes are for draining the sealed compartments inside the hull. As far as I can see theese comp. it is not connected to the engineroom since it is not draining. The water is trapped inside theese compartment and the only way to drain it is cutting a hole.
 
Hi,
Although the source of the leak could be any number things, I have to share that I had a similar issue, and I fixed it by tightening the screws on the windows. For a few weeks I was baffled as to how he carpet was soaking wet in one particular area, and it turned out to be a leak in one window. The water traveled down the side, under the seat and collected in the middle of the carpet. Bizarre, but true.
Try the simple solutions first, before cutting and drilling.
Just a thought.
 
Hey Bjorn,

I had similar problem and is was the shower pump… the pump would only work manually. If you run you air or take a shower in the boat the shower sump box fills up pretty quickly and spills over into the bilge. Even if it is not full, running the boat would result in the water splashing out of the box as well, as the boxes are not watertight…

The water would spill out of the box and travel to a compartment in the aft cabin on the port side… you are correct no drains.

I solved the problem by replacing the shower pump box.

I don’t recommend cutting any holes. I would suck out the water with a wet / dry vacuum cleaner and run a small fan in the compartment to dry things out. May have to do this more than once until you can find the source of the leak…
 
Bjorn. Find the source of the leak first and then focus on getting the water out. There is something potentially serious going on with a leak in those areas. Some ideas in addition to the ones people suggested above:

1. Look in the storage areas under the forward berth. They should be completely dry.
2. Make sure there are no leaks in the starboard side compartment where the AC discharge hose exits through the hull.
3. Open up the compartment that holds the AC/Heat unit under the port side storage area under that berth. Everything in there should be completely dry other than possibly some water in the condensation tray.
4. It is possible that the AC supply hose (that runs from the engine room bulkhead under the floor all the way forward to the AC unit) may have developed a leak somewhere. It runs through those areas where you may have water.
5. Check the outside bow rail stanchion bases. They do lose their sealing and need to be loosened and resealed and retightened at some point. When they leak, the water travels down along the fiberglass hull sides behind cabinets and trim and so you don't always see it. If you see movement at the bases of those bow rail stanchions when you move them, you will find they have been leaking.
 
We also found that the pan under the AC unit (under the fwd bunk) was rusted and instead of the condensate all going through the hose to the sump box, it ran down to the hull and ended up outside the pump box. Shop-vac a temporary fix.
 
We are looking to purchase a 1997 330 Sundancer. It needs new rails and trucks for the cabin door. I have search this forum sight and found post about this repair but I’m lookin for more detail. I understand that it will require the removal of the port side front cockpit enclosure/cover. I also found info that one of the mounts is behind the speaker that is in this assembly. Are there other attachment screws/mounts and how do I access them before I work removing the caulk from the seams? Would appreciate some info. Thanks!
 
My 94 330 has the water tank under the aft cabin port side cushions. Could be the source
 

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