Official 330 Sundancer Thread

It's almost time to dive in to winter/spring boat projects. Seriously considering pulling out my Kohler 4cz generator and doing an overhaul, etc. So the big question is has anyone done this themselves before? If I remove the starboard outboard exhaust manifold will I have sufficient clearance to rig it out of the engine compartment? Has anyone managed to get it out without using a forklift? Any help/advice would be appreciated. I should have bit the bullet last winter and had it done while the engines were out for replacement. Picture is from last winter.
IMG_20190531_153700777_HDR.jpg
 
noleaclover said:
I have pictures from the back of the gauge panel as well as the lower buttons panel. Msg me if you still need the pictures.
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I am taking on the panel replacement project this weekend. Would you mind also sending me pictures of back of the gauge panel as well? Thanks very much!
 
We recently got our 330DA back to running condition and took her out for a test drive. We were able to idle through the canals to the open water of Tampa Bay where I pushed the throttles ever so gently to 2k rpm and all was fine. When I went to push a bit faster I saw that the starboard engine reached 3k but the port was still only at 2k. With the transmissions in neutral, both engines rev up past 3k without issue leaving me to believe this is a transmission issue.

Any simple items to check first before I call a $90/hr mechanic?
 
Mr Mac said:
We recently got our 330DA back to running condition and took her out for a test drive. We were able to idle through the canals to the open water of Tampa Bay where I pushed the throttles ever so gently to 2k rpm and all was fine. When I went to push a bit faster I saw that the starboard engine reached 3k but the port was still only at 2k. With the transmissions in neutral, both engines rev up past 3k without issue leaving me to believe this is a transmission issue.

Any simple items to check first before I call a $90/hr mechanic?
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Are you sure it was only at 2K and it wasn't the tach being off? What did the synch needle show? If starboard engine was at 3k and the other at 2k you would not be on plane and the boat would be turning hard to port. Was that what was happening?
 
Bob Wright said:
I am taking on the panel replacement project this weekend. Would you mind also sending me pictures of back of the gauge panel as well? Thanks very much!
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I am working on a installing some genset modifications on a cruise ship the next couple of days but PM me your e-mail and I can forward you all the pics I have. It might not be the best pictures but it would give you a good idea where each wire goes. I would also suggest for you to take your own pictures before you remove just incase the wire colors do not match with mine.
 
Creekwood said:
Are you sure it was only at 2K and it wasn't the tach being off? What did the synch needle show? If starboard engine was at 3k and the other at 2k you would not be on plane and the boat would be turning hard to port. Was that what was happening?
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Yup, we made a left turn to be sure at the point I was bringing the engine speed up on both engines. The tach is okay and the synch was definitely showing a lack of engine speed to the port side. When in neutral I can get the engine to run up smooth without any issue to 3k and beyond.
 
Mr Mac said:
Yup, we made a left turn to be sure at the point I was bringing the engine speed up on both engines. The tach is okay and the synch was definitely showing a lack of engine speed to the port side. When in neutral I can get the engine to run up smooth without any issue to 3k and beyond.
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I would suggest to 1st check your sparkplugs or sparkplug wires or distributor cap. I had this same issue when one of the wires had come off the sparkplug and was hanging.
 
noleaclover said:
I would suggest to 1st check your sparkplugs or sparkplug wires or distributor cap. I had this same issue when one of the wires had come off the sparkplug and was hanging.
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could be mixed up too. easy checks.
 
So how hard is it to replace a leaking water heater. Can you get it in/ou with disassembling the engine?
 
Water Heater.... I pretty sure you can. You most likely have to remove the exhaust manifold to get the necessary clearance. Depending on how much you use it, you can bypass as well.
 
Does anyone know what size water heater we have on the 95-98 330 Searays?

I plan on replacing mine but don't know if it's a 6 or 11 gallon tank.
 
Bradray said:
I am having an issue when I connect to the dock water supply. The water will only work from the storage tank regardless of whether or not it is connected to shore water. I have read that there is a pressure value that needs to be replaced but I cannot seem to locate it. I have a 2013 330. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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If I'm not mistaken the pressure value is in the fitting where your hoses connects at the boat on the starboard side, you have to replace the fitting.
 
Salvation 330 said:
It's almost time to dive in to winter/spring boat projects. Seriously considering pulling out my Kohler 4cz generator and doing an overhaul, etc. So the big question is has anyone done this themselves before? If I remove the starboard outboard exhaust manifold will I have sufficient clearance to rig it out of the engine compartment? Has anyone managed to get it out without using a forklift? Any help/advice would be appreciated. I should have bit the bullet last winter and had it done while the engines were out for replacement. Picture is from last winter.View attachment 79303
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i pulled my generator to bring to have it rebuilt. Like you said i took off the manifold and riser. i put a ratchet strap around the hook and the handle of the arch to lift it up and off the mount. than a buddy and i lifted up and rested on the back seat fiberglass. closed hatch and walked out. try to do in water so u dont have to carry it on a ladder lol
 
Saverio said:
i pulled my generator to bring to have it rebuilt. Like you said i took off the manifold and riser. i put a ratchet strap around the hook and the handle of the arch to lift it up and off the mount. than a buddy and i lifted up and rested on the back seat fiberglass. closed hatch and walked out. try to do in water so u dont have to carry it on a ladder lol
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the tips! It's always good to ask questions if you need advice! I was thinking about pulling off the stator to lighten it up significantly first. I already stripped it down quite a bit. Found the heat exchanger partially plugged as well as exh manifolds. Took to one of the few remaining radiator shops in NJ and had them cleaned/repaired. How far did you go in having your Gen rebuilt?
 
My Kohler kept blowing boards. so iI brought it to kohler to repair. wound up a ground wire broke from the electrical bx to the chassis. when i pulled it i mounted the ratchet strat to the arch handle not over the arch
 
timinfla2 said:
Well, I hope I'm not stepping on toes here but I did a search and could not find another thread that was devoted to 330's.

So here it is!

To all my fellow 330 owners, please say hello.

Regards,
Tim
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mrsrobinson said:
I get a rush every time I see this...we have the same video times 10.
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Tony Clark said:
Hi All

I am looking into upgrading my Bennett trim tabs from the current 18 inch x 9 inch ones to the largest possible as I am unable to get the enough nose down trim with the existing tabs at full stretch

If anyone has had a similar problem and found a solution then please let me know ASAP

Does anyone have their 330 out of the water at present that would be able to measure what the maximum tab width would be ?

Thanking you in anticipation

TC
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Creekwood said:
Source and specs for 4 Blade props

Many of you are saying to go with 4 blade props for the 330 with 7.4s and vDrives. I think the stock props are 16x16. What are the specs of your 4 blades and where did you get them?
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I have the same boat yr and all- I have 17 x 17 3 blade props- tops out at 43 mph- and loves to run at 3200 rpm @ 28.5 and if conditions are right its approx. 29.5 MPH
 
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