Official 330 Sundancer Thread

[rumrunner]

I believe Teak Isle Manufacturing makes replacement truck(wheels) and tracks. You will have to poke around the website a bit....

http://www.teakisle.com/products_sliding_cabin_entry_doors.asp

 

[rumrunner]

I also a PowerPoint presentation with some details on how to pull the door out. Shoot me an email address and I can send it to you. I have not replaced mine yet...

 

[LTD.330]

I also a PowerPoint presentation with some details on how to pull the door out. Shoot me an email address and I can send it to you. I have not replaced mine yet...

If you have a gmail account you could put the doc on your google drive a post a readonly shareable link. I'm interested in how that comes apart.

 

[tdschafer]

Does a 2014 330 Count? We're a true 33, so maybe a baby 330...

I think there is another thread for the newer 330's that may be more helpful.

 

[tdschafer]

Anyone tackle the infamous sticky cabin sliding door? Seems to be the top track that gets hung up while moving. I’m tempted to install new gliders this season but can’t find much info online.

I replaced my "trucks" & tracks a few years ago. The door was stiff when moving & I was lifting it to latch. I ordered my stuff from Teak Isle as mentioned above as i believe they bought the rights or something from the OEM. But, you can find them.on Flounder Pounder & Ebay as well. I had a pictorial on my profile page of the process but I dont think it carried over to this new platform when CSR did its switch over. The biggest thing I remember is the hidden screws behind the speaker holding the port side panel on. Overall, not a bad job. It took some work realigning the door & ultimately I had to move the latch too. Remember there are 2 different height trucks for the too & bottom. Make sure not to mix them up. Good Luck!

 

[domer94]

I’m getting brown juice and rust streak from the stbd bolster that is where the radar arch meets the boat. I know it’s rotten wood or fastener. How bad is it to get that off? The vinyl is in good shape can a shop just replace the structural wood?

 

[tdschafer]

I’m getting brown juice and rust streak from the stbd bolster that is where the radar arch meets the boat. I know it’s rotten wood or fastener. How bad is it to get that off? The vinyl is in good shape can a shop just replace the structural wood?

That comes off easily. I took them off when I removed my arch to get it painted. Look in the pleats for screw heads. There are only 4 screws each I think. I don't see why you couldn't just replace the wood with marine plywood.

 

[Saverio]

has anyone changed the fluids in the v drives? I had the marina do it when I purchased the boat was going to do it this year. Im assuming I have to wait while its in the water to get the fluid warmed up. is it just trans fluid or is it gear oil also? do you just suck it out from the dip stick?

thanks

 

[Stee6043]

has anyone changed the fluids in the v drives? I had the marina do it when I purchased the boat was going to do it this year. Im assuming I have to wait while its in the water to get the fluid warmed up. is it just trans fluid or is it gear oil also? do you just suck it out from the dip stick?

thanks

I did my 340's....couldn't be much simpler. I found that the drives really do not heat up by just running the motors. If you really want to put some heat in the drives you need to move the boat. I changed mine semi-cold as a result...

Suck it out of the dipstick. You may also have a cleanable filter. Check what kind of trans you have and buy the correct fluid for it. Mine was ATF Type III if I recall correctly....I used AC Delco brand from Amazon...

 

[Saverio]

I Have the standard v Drives. hooked up to the 454's

 

[Simpsonn8908]

I Have the standard v Drives. hooked up to the 454's

Mine was standard ATF III as well. Just pumped it out from the top. You need a little bitty hose to get past the dip stick cone though.

 

[Saverio]

ok great how much does it need?

 

[Stee6043]

ok great how much does it need?

Dude...you should not take stuff like this from an internet forum. You need to confirm which trans you have and get the specific fluid type and volume from mfg spec sheet or manual. Not all 330's have the same v-drive...

 

[domer94]

I did the hurth v drives in mine. Found the replacement filters on eBay and did redline fluid. They shift like butter on a 1995

 

[gasketguy]

Hey guys wanted to jump in here and ask other 330 owners a question.. when I launched the boat i had the hardest time getting water up in the boat to the impellers I could not get the boat to prime up with water due to how high the strainers are set..I have 7.4s with v drives so my question is do other 330 owners have this problem and how did you correct it for easier launch start up for the year..it took me a ton of work with a buddy finally coming to the rescue we had to run a hose a d force pressure of water into the strainers to get the motors up and pulling water

 

[dldix]

How are your impellers? Also did you check to make sure your strainers are clean?

 

[Capt Brad]

Hey guys wanted to jump in here and ask other 330 owners a question.. when I launched the boat i had the hardest time getting water up in the boat to the impellers I could not get the boat to prime up with water due to how high the strainers are set..I have 7.4s with v drives so my question is do other 330 owners have this problem and how did you correct it for easier launch start up for the year..it took me a ton of work with a buddy finally coming to the rescue we had to run a hose a d force pressure of water into the strainers to get the motors up and pulling water

Same thought as dldix, probably need some impeller maintenance. I also remove the strainer cap, open the seacock and let the bowl fill before cranking. It’s slow as it’s near water level but it helps.

 

[gasketguy]

How are your impellers? Also did you check to make sure your strainers are clean?

Same thought as dldix, probably need some impeller maintenance. I also remove the strainer cap, open the seacock and let the bowl fill before cranking. It’s slow as it’s near water level but it helps.

Impellers were done in spring last year and I only put maybe 25 hours on the boat the whole season so I would say they would still be in great shape..when open strainer bowls the water was only as high as the bottom of the hose opening then the water would return towards lake unless I closed the seacock..tried keeping the seacock closed as the boat was started then crackin immediately hoping the force would suck the water up a d get everything flowing..

 

[Capt Brad]

Impellers were done in spring last year and I only put maybe 25 hours on the boat the whole season so I would say they would still be in great shape..when open strainer bowls the water was only as high as the bottom of the hose opening then the water would return towards lake unless I closed the seacock..tried keeping the seacock closed as the boat was started then crackin immediately hoping the force would suck the water up a d get everything flowing..

Very strange. Did the output have adequate water flow once you got her running? Wondering if the seacock is clogged. I know my waterline is just about at the genny/waterheater tier so it’s hard with how tall the bowls are

 

[gasketguy]

Very strange. Did the output have adequate water flow once you got her running? Wondering if the seacock is clogged. I know my waterline is just about at the genny/waterheater tier so it’s hard with how tall the bowls are

Yes once we got it going with the hose I full flow exit..that was kind of another thought wondering if i could find shorter bowls or just stick with trying to drop mine lower..i wish i had the number of the PO so i could ask what the secret is lol