Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

Did you remove the hatch? or just seal around the edge
Sorry just saw this. I removed the hatch completely and used 3M 5200 to reseal the opening.
 

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Sorry just saw this. I removed the hatch completely and used 3M 5200 to reseal the opening.
Also did the wiper motors with the same sealant. Was getting water around the 120V lights in the ceiling of the cabin and traced to the mounts for the wiper motors.
 
So The service center did not see any codes. I replaced the water pressure sensor and still getting the beeping . It put me back into guardian mode. Boat ran great the whole way back from the service center. Went to leave today for a cruise and the starboard engine would not go ove 2K. Still beeping every minute.
***Update*** problem was due to the Idle Air Sensor. Beeping has stopped. Boat is running normal.
 
Completed the worst imaginable job on our boats. My holding tank was leaking. Checked all the fittings and finally found that it was from under the tank. I went and pumped it out and refilled it 5 times to cut down on the nastiness but 20 years of use still made it a disgusting job. I could not get the sensors removed from the tank so had to cut the wires. Everything else came apart and with some work I was able to get the tank out without removing the hot water heater or having to disconnect the hatch actuator. After cleaning and cleaning I discovered that there are 4 metal threaded inserts on the bottom corners of the tank that probably used to hold a rubber foot? There was no rubber left and what I assume was a metal stud holding the foot was gone. But, at one point it must have pushed up into the tank and cracked the plastic on 2 of the 4 corners. So I cleaned the holes and threads then filled each with 5200. Then got a plastic welding kit from Harbor Freight and first melted a square of stainless screen over the hole then coated each using plastic welding rod, creating a cap. I filled the tank and let it sit, just to be sure it didn't leak because it's not a job I ever want to do again. The install was quick and easy and so far so good.
This follows year long issue of my stb engine randomly shutting off. And random means time interval and speed, sometimes 5 minutes after starting, sometimes 5 hours. Sometimes at idle, sometimes at 3600rpm It would always restart. Sometimes immediately, sometimes it took a half hour. Never threw a code as I had a mechanic check it two times. I went round and round checking connections, fuel pressure etc. When I pushed the key to the on position, I could hear the fuel pump so ruled that out. Changing the fuel water seperator seemed to help but fuel was always clear. I replaced IAC and TPS. Even swapped the ECM. Nothing worked. Finally, it came down to the low pressure fuel pump connection. One shot of contact cleaner and now it's run for 7 trips without a hiccup.
Next up is the horn. It broke off it's mount up underneath the anchor locker. Impossible for me to work on as I need to stand on my head or a third arm to reach it. So plan B is to mount a new one to the arch.
Steering fluid has went from a leak over the winter to now needs refilling every couple weeks to seal kit is on order for that.

It never ends...
 
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Any advice would be much appreciated.
I'm repowering this winter.
My question is has anyone removed their helm station/engine hatch floor?
I have 3116 Cats and it doesn't look like after removing the lift ram pins I can get the hatch open enough to get the engines with the transmission out.
I plan on pulling the seats and bases off the floor first.
I can see the piano hinge but not what is fastening it to the hatch. I'm curious if there are bolts or screws holding the hinge on.
 
Any advice would be much appreciated.
I'm repowering this winter.
My question is has anyone removed their helm station/engine hatch floor?
I have 3116 Cats and it doesn't look like after removing the lift ram pins I can get the hatch open enough to get the engines with the transmission out.
I plan on pulling the seats and bases off the floor first.
I can see the piano hinge but not what is fastening it to the hatch. I'm curious if there are bolts or screws holding the hinge on.

if you remove the seats the the floor opens up into the radar arch (w/o having to mess with piano hinge). I know gassers can be removed. I assume the Cats would come out too, but not certain.
 
Hey guys I’m looking for some advice, I was down the boat yesterday and went in engine room I noticed a little transmission fluid underneath the motors so I checked levels and I was down some so I added fluid. At the beginning of the season I changed the fluid I’m just wondering how it could be leaking ?
 
Hi Everyone. New here with a new to me 1997 33 EC. I have been trying to locate the fresh water tank and pump. Assuming it is somewhere in the cabin? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
The fresh water holding tank is located under the cabin floor. to access it you have to remove the staircase and the carpet if you need to replace the tank. The fresh water pump is located on top of the hot water heater in the engine room.
Hi Everyone. New here with a new to me 1997 33 EC. I have been trying to locate the fresh water tank and pump. Assuming it is somewhere in the cabin? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Has anyone played around with different props to get more speed/efficiency? I have 7.4 EFI and cruise around 24mph at 3500rpm. What are other guys cruising at and top end? I saw on another forum a 31’ Sundancer changed props on his onboard and was doing 35mph cruise?
 
Hello all, I am going to look at a 330 express 1997 model tomorrow. Not my first boat but have been out of the game for about 5 years. Previous was a 94 330 da. I went through rotten deck core in a few spots on my last boat and have looked at a number of Sundancers that have hull rot. I understand the express is all glass in the hull so that is excellent. Just want to know problem areas to be on the lookout for in regards to that or any other common problems with this model.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Hello all, I am going to look at a 330 express 1997 model tomorrow. Not my first boat but have been out of the game for about 5 years. Previous was a 94 330 da. I went through rotten deck core in a few spots on my last boat and have looked at a number of Sundancers that have hull rot. I understand the express is all glass in the hull so that is excellent. Just want to know problem areas to be on the lookout for in regards to that or any other common problems with this model.
Thanks in advance for any advice.


I have the 1997 33 EC and have a soft spot around the anchor windlass area near the foot pedals. Everything else is still holding up nicely.
 
Quick question guys I just shrink wrapped the boat and I was wondering if anyone knows the size of the spacer and the angle of our risers. I have 454 horizon mag fwc.
 
I have 7.4 MPIs 99 model and spacers are 3”, risers are 6.5”, and 90 degree angle straight out the rear. Not sure if that helps.
 
My winter project is started, change both cylinder heads and another parts. Port size of engine Manifold was runinng hot , found the exhaust valve bad and stuck .
20211203_172859.jpg
 
Hey guys I’m looking for some advice, I was down the boat yesterday and went in engine room I noticed a little transmission fluid underneath the motors so I checked levels and I was down some so I added fluid. At the beginning of the season I changed the fluid I’m just wondering how it could be leaking ?
Sounds lie you over filled the gearboxes you need to check the fluid level with the motors running and up to operating temp
 
I’m having water accumulate in the storage compartment under the cabin floor on our 01’ 340 Amberjack. I checked the shower sump and cleaned it out, but it wasn’t bad at all.
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I checked the overflow pan on the A/C unit and there doesn’t seem to be anything accumulating there as well. I even shut off the A/C unit for a week after draining the area, but the water came back. It has a brownish coloration to the water. Any guesses what the issue may be?
 
I’m having water accumulate in the storage compartment under the cabin floor on our 01’ 340 Amberjack. I checked the shower sump and cleaned it out, but it wasn’t bad at all. View attachment 116521 I checked the overflow pan on the A/C unit and there doesn’t seem to be anything accumulating there as well. I even shut off the A/C unit for a week after draining the area, but the water came back. It has a brownish coloration to the water. Any guesses what the issue may be?


Check water tank and houses .
 
Got a few question for you guys, so I’ve been running the quicksilver 25-40 in my boat, I’ve noticed a lot of guys are using rotella. What’s your thoughts on this and what weight should i go with I have 454 mag horizons w/800hours

Also I plan on doing my risers and manifold this spring, my question is I want to replace spark plugs while I’m at it I’ve been running ACdelcos, should I stick with those or go NGK?

Also have anybody cleaned their air intake?

I also plan on doing cutlass bearings and was wondering did anybody has input on the best brand etc.

I’m just looking to get a list of things to do in the spring, if anybody has any other preventative maintenance idea I’m open to ideas.
 

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