Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

Thank you, I have been in Aviation for 27 years and my mind only works towards preventive maintenance . I like to change parts in advance. My question how often do you change
1. Engine 160 F termostad
2. Sea water pump
3 Water pump
4 Plugs
5 Manifold Elbow
6. Cleaning the injector
7 Oil presure sender
8 Distributor Cap Kit
9. Fuel pump
10 Water Pressure Sensor
11 Muffler IAC
12 Spark wire

 

I changed my thermostats when I redid my motors three years ago I’m fresh water cooled so I treat it like a car not that often
Seawater pumps they recommend every other season I’m on season three without any issue but I think I’m going to change them before the spring
The water pump I replaced when I redid my engines but they were in perfect shape again fresh water cooled and considering the amount of hours that we put on our boats I would say that they’re pretty much lifetime
Spark plugs are a item I check every so often for fouling , if they look good I leave them alone I’m on year three from my re-power if you talk to a service yard when you fog your motors they are of the mindset of changing them every year I’m assuming that’s for revenue
Elbows and manifolds for that matter are probably the most important item on your list since we are half cooled meaning only the block circulates anifreeze and manifolds and elbows are raw water cooled I would say 3 to 5 years for elbows 5 to 7 years for manifolds . they're roughly about $800 a motor to replace from Michigan motors cheap insurance considering if you ingest water you huff a motor.
if you have no previous record of your injectors being cleaned it wouldn’t hurt to have it done after that I wouldn’t think you would have to do it unless an issue arises with your fuel management
Oil pressure sender when they fail it’s pretty obvious other than that I’m not sure I will replace it unless you’re just looking to update your sensors
Your distributor cap and rotor could be replaced every three years or so as they do tend to get moisture in them oxidize and reduce spark etc. etc.
Our fuel pumps I believe are high volume and built into our fuel cooler assembly they are a few hundred dollars each readily available I believe, I haven’t replaced mine but plan to replace my fuel cooler assembly this coming season as I believe it’s Porous because mine keep greening out and I get a drip that collects under the blue drain plug regardless of how tight my hose clamps are they are sold by Mr. cool for about 200
Water pressure sensor again if you’re into changing your sensors by all means do so
My engines are throttlebody injected I believe you have multiport my IAC valves are on my throttlebody I have replaced them once but they are considered a wear item I know people who change them every other year they run about 150 apiece
Spark plug wires are not something that I change that often I am on my second set for eight years that I have owned my boat

I will add to your list and say every year or every other year you should replace your PCV valves as those fail often and can cause crank case pressure buildup in your motor causing oil consumption. Also your fuel water separator‘s we have five on our boats one coming off each tank one going to the generator and one on each motor starboard side. During the season I try and make sure I use or start each system on my boat meaning, all faucets ,the toilet ,my remote spotlight, the generator, my fishbox discharge my macerator keep every system operational and exercise them often. Good luck and enjoy I know your boat , the previous owner took care of it well

 

Another thing to keep an eye on are your coolers (main engine antifreeze, transmission, and oil). My boat came from salt and the engine coolers needed replaced; started loosing antifreeze. Decided to change the trans and oil coolers just as a precaution.

 

Thank you for your recommendation

 

coming together. Stairs installed and new flooring hatch trim and couch cushions. Working on the permanent berth up front.

 

From your experience falls faster manifold or risers ?

 

Risers Should be replaced more often than manifolds

 

I was down at my boat this week and measured the hole for the ice maker (mine is currently out). It measure 14.25” wide x 18.75” high. You could widen about another inch and could extend the height about 2”. Depth is not an issue for just about anything you’d want to install.

 

I have a question , the engine room has two bilge pump areas and water is constantly collected there, how and where does it get there ???

 

If it’s getting into the main bilge (rear of engine room) it is most likely coming in through the engine vents on the arch. I took my vent covers off and rebedded the black inner vent attachment. If that is not the cause, you likely have a water leak somewhere (either fresh water system or engine related). Wait for a good heavy downpour and climb down in the engine room. If it’s the vents you’ll see dripping on one or both sides.

If it’s the small bilge in front of engine room, I’d suspect your shower sump drain box is not functioning. The head shower and condensate from AC drain to it.

 

Thanks. Can I get more details please about "black inner vent attachment"

 

I have had the same issue for the last 12yrs with water collecting in the aft engine bilge pump. Water tends to leave signs of its presence after drying, so I started looking more closely. Follow your prop shaft tubes back to the area aft of the engine room and under the fuel tanks. I found it helpful to use my phone to take photos of the spots I can't actually see. Signs of water are in that area and there is often standing water beside the stringer. Once the water overflows that area it enters the engine room, through the limber hole in the stringer and into the bilge pump area in the centre of the hull.

Still, I'm not sure just where this water is coming from. I've re-sealed the vents. It may be a leak at the rub rail, but water shouldn't really get there too often. There have been reports of the prop shaft tubes not being sealed properly to the hull. Their placement would make it next to impossible to reach from inside the boat. Fuel tanks would have to be removed and engines are in the way of the fuel tanks. I've looked carefully at the exterior of the hull where the prop shafts exit the hull, but everything looks fine there. After 12yrs you'd think any kind of breech would be rather evident. It's not constant water but sporadic which might indicate rain water leaking in somewhere.

 

We’re all in the same boat so to speak, no pun intended ,well maybe a little lol .I’ve been thinking about rebedding the through hull fittings in that sump area wouldn’t be surprised if it’s leaking from under the wood blocks. And yes it definitely leaks from the side Vents pooling on each outbound side of the engine room and working it’s way to the center

 

The large fishing box at the stern has no seal and there is no drainage of water from there, I looked in the ruder area water stay there .

 

The fish box area should not leak the fish box lip is bigger than the hole it should drain out through the deck scuppers that are connected to the fish box and bait well Where are the rudders are in the bottom of that area there should be two bilge pump‘s and access to your drain plug for the boat

 

But there is water after the rain, i have to look for how it gets there

 

Check your drain holes under the hatch covers and check your deck plates for your fuel senders. Your cockpit is open to the rain right ?

 

Thank you, you're right, fuel deck plate is in bad shape I think it leaks also lot of dirt on the tanks, when we have warm weather need to clean it all. Hope Sea Ray made good tanks

 

Are you replacing it with a fridge? If so let me know what brand and model you go with and how much work it was to put in.

 

Mines out because I had to pull a motor last fall and have not replaced it yet. I may install a fridge, but haven’t decided yet. If I do I will likely install one of the 1.7cf drawer models. I think a drawer would be more useful there than a standard door setup.

They run $1100-$1500 depending on brand. Install would simply require a jigsaw or small circular saw to increase the cutout size.