Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) Thread

For those with the factory-installed transom speakers, how long do yours last before they become corroded and stop working? I just bought the boat and the transom speakers are trashed, which is about what I expected given their location.
 
For those with the factory-installed transom speakers, how long do yours last before they become corroded and stop working? I just bought the boat and the transom speakers are trashed, which is about what I expected given their location.

Can't say how long they last, but I'd suspect that a lot has to do with the ones installed. I bought my 2009 330 in 2014 and the Sony speakers were trashed, as in the cones were completely rotted away. I'd say they stopped working at least a year before. On the other hand, my buddy has an 08 350 with Fusion speakers that still work fine and are the originals. The 350 has the speakers a bit more "tucked away" though so I'm sure that helps.
 
to make the exposed transom speakers last longer you could make some covers for them to keep the weather and UV light off when they are not in use.....the covers don't have to be fancy.....you can even use something simple as a piece of waterproof fabric (color matching Sunbrella ?) that is cut slightly larger than the diameter of the speaker grille and use a large rubber band to secure the fabric to the speaker grille.....

you may even find you could leave the fabric in place all the time and not affect the sound quality from the speakers much if any....if you don't mind how it looks.....


cliff
 
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Thanks guys. Yeah, I looked up the 2008 350 DA, and it does have them on the sides. That might protect them a bit, plus I think the boat looks better that way. Wonder why Sea Ray didn't put them there on the 2009 330 DA. It also looks like Sea Ray abandoned them altogether on the 2011 330 DA. I would consider moving them, or even eliminating them. I'll see how I feel about it after my first summer with the boat.
 
There are some posts here, regarding the small refrigerator drawer door. If you have, then you know you need to be super careful when opening it, not to let the door drop on the hinge. If you aren't careful, the inside of the door will crack.

I bought a replacement door, but never changed it out, since mine wasn't that bad. But now, I don't need it, so it's for sale, here:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php?t=82393

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I just had my new 2011 350 Sundancer delivered this week. This also my first boat. So I have a bunch of questions. I received a orientation from the MarineMax captain when he delivered the boat on Wednesday. Now by Saturday, I forgot everything he told me. Should have wrote everything down; however, I didn’t and now trying to remember the start up procedures and where all the switches are located.

Is there anything like a pre-operation checklist, online videos that explain the pre-operation, departure and shutting down at the dock upon return?
 
I just had my new 2011 350 Sundancer delivered this week. This also my first boat. So I have a bunch of questions. I received a orientation from the MarineMax captain when he delivered the boat on Wednesday. Now by Saturday, I forgot everything he told me. Should have wrote everything down; however, I didn’t and now trying to remember the start up procedures and where all the switches are located.

Is there anything like a pre-operation checklist, online videos that explain the pre-operation, departure and shutting down at the dock upon return?

Congrats on the boat! Great choice.

First, create a startup checklist, laminate it and keep it at the helm. I also have a return to dock, shut down checklist. I'm sure others will weigh in, but here's what I would recommend for your startup:

1) Turn battery switches to on. (I leave mine off when I leave the boat)
2) Place bags, food, etc in the cabin. Don't place plastic grocery bags on a hot vinyl seat, the ink will transfer
3) Open the engine hatch, look for water. A little water in the center of the bilge is not uncommon on this boat.
4) Check the oil on each engine, check coolant and gear lube levels
5) Look for any leaks, water, fuel or oil.
6) Check sea strainers, I do this once a month. Close the seacock, pull the strainer, clean it, place it back, reopen seacock.
7) Close the engine hatch
7.5) Check your fuel level in both tanks, you want at least a 10% reserve
8) Turn ignition keys, but don't start the engines.
9) Start your blower and let it run for 5min
10) Start your engines one at a time, make sure they are pushing water overboard. (If water cooled)
11) Let your engines warm up to 135 before heading out, during warm up I check my navy lights to make sure they're working, stow canvas, etc

If you're going to use your generator, turn things off at step (8) from your breaker panel and shut off the shore power. After running your blower start your generator without a load on it. It needs to warm up. Then turn on the generator breaker switches to provide power to ship systems. Turn your air conditioning back on etc.

A few other tips:
-Before leaving the dock make sure everyone has been given a safety briefing if it's their first time onboard. Let everyone know where the life vests are stowed and make sure they're not in plastic.
-Let your passengers know what you want them to do as you leave the dock. I like newbies to just sit in once place and stay put.
-I normally have someone else remove lines, I start with my spring, then my bow, stern is last.
-I also like to do a quick walk around to make sure I don't see anything out of the ordinary when I first get to the boat.

Every boat is different, so videos online can be tough to match your exact boat. This thread is a great resource.

If you can, hire a reputable mechanic to show you some of the basics. Carry some extra oil, boat engines will burn some during the season. Carry extra gear lube. Get a small Pelican case with some basic tools, ratchet set, spare clamps of various sizes, spare bulbs for nav lights, etc.

Hope this helps get you started.
 
Congrats on the boat! Great choice.

First, create a startup checklist, laminate it and keep it at the helm. I also have a return to dock, shut down checklist. I'm sure others will weigh in, but here's what I would recommend for your startup:


Thanks Ryan - This is great help. I probably remember more than I realize. Having a reference is great.

Thanks again.

Frank
 
Thanks Ryan - This is great help. I probably remember more than I realize. Having a reference is great.

Thanks again.

Frank

Happy to help. By the way, if you plan on going off shore or on longer trips away from land I highly recommend you get an EPIRB and life raft onboard. Neither are required by law, but are smart to carry.
 
My first project on this boat will be to install an air horn.

I'm planning on using an AFI duel trumpet air horn so I don't have to deal with a tank. Worked great on my old boat. I will put the trumpets on top of the arch and install a relay so I can use the existing horn switch.

I want to locate the compressor as close to the trumpets as possible. Not sure if there's enough space inside the arch itself. Has anyone installed this type of air horn on these boats? If so, where did you locate the compressor?

Thanks in advance.
 
I can be of little assistance to you but I will be following, since this is on my list as well. I'd love to see the final product and photos of the install!

I can say this, when I did my stereo upgrade I ran wires through the arch and had all the vinyl/fabric covers off. There is a decent amount of room down towards the base of the arch and if you pull the speaker out there is a decent amount of working room with an easy straight drop into the bilge for your tubing. I'd suspect that at worst you could fit it up there. You might have to rig up some sort of epoxy mounting though since I don't thing you'd want to use screw in there.
 
Now that I finally my 2011 350 Sundancer at my dock, I am going through the boat to figure out how everything works. Reading the Sea Ray literature there is a Conversation Pit that converts to a Double Berth w/ Slide-Out Base & Dedicated Filler Cushion Storage. Can anyone explain how this works?
 
Now that I finally my 2011 350 Sundancer at my dock, I am going through the boat to figure out how everything works. Reading the Sea Ray literature there is a Conversation Pit that converts to a Double Berth w/ Slide-Out Base & Dedicated Filler Cushion Storage. Can anyone explain how this works?

You are referring to the aft couch, which turns into a bed. (Rear of the cabin)
You can pull the center section that goes across the back of the cabin and it slides out. (Pull the seat)

The cushion that was previously the back of the couch, pulls out and fills in the gap you make when you pull the seat out. This creates essentially a twin sized bunk. We've used it many times.

You may find your SeaRay manuals don't entirely match your boat. They can sometimes be off depending on how your exact boat was fitted/optioned out.
 
Hi. I am going to install a central vac in my 2008 330 sundancer. I am trying to figure out the best location on the starboard side of the cabin to install the unit and the remote inlet port. If anyone has one installed from the factory or has personally installed one please chime in so I can match the factory installation.
 
Hi. I am going to install a central vac in my 2008 330 sundancer. I am trying to figure out the best location on the starboard side of the cabin to install the unit and the remote inlet port. If anyone has one installed from the factory or has personally installed one please chime in so I can match the factory installation.
why not just buy a small vacuum? i don't see the value-add...
 
Hi. I am going to install a central vac in my 2008 330 sundancer. I am trying to figure out the best location on the starboard side of the cabin to install the unit and the remote inlet port. If anyone has one installed from the factory or has personally installed one please chime in so I can match the factory installation.
I have one factory installed. If you find the parts manual it actually shows you the location. The holding can is behind the lift up back for the couch near the switch panel and the hose attaches under the seat to the right of the storage compartment.
 
Interesting issue this weeekend. So I filled up with gas and for some reason now my boat motors Sync is off. Yeah I know it's odd, but either it's coincidence or something else just went wrong. When trying to take off and get on plane the port motor now is about 600 rpms higher then the starboard. Eventually the starboard will catch up and it will plane, but it's odd that the DTS says they are synced even though they are not. Also, no warnings on the vessel view. I'm going to try and change the cool fuel filters and the water separator filter and see if maybe something is clogged. Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
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