Official 320 Dancer Thread

More questions from this first season owner.... how accurate is the speed from the original Tri-Data? I am going to use the GPS speed box on my phone for comparison but was just curious about everyone ‘s experience??

Interesting question. I have no answer. But on my “new” boat I have a Tridata and an old Raymarine Raynav 300 GPS plotter (which feeds my RL80c plotter). I also run an iPad as backup. So I have 3 sources of speed. My tridata and iPad are usually in sync, with the Raynav reporting slower.

Like i said, I have no answer. But I’m inclined to believe the iPad/tridata since they are independent and agree with each other. And the iPad is 10+ years of newer technology than the other stuff.

“New is always better”.
- Barney Stinson
 
Here is a copy of the article about vent filter rebuilding:

How to recharge holding tank vent filter -- w/pics

At SRO, several members had talked about refilling their holding tank vent filters. By rebuilding your own filter it will probably save you about $100 bucks.

http://www.environmentalmarine.com/accessories.html

Here's how to do it yourself, step-by-step:

First, purchase your pvc (dwv) fittings for 2" pipe, primer & glue, and the carbon pellets (the pellets can be found at PetSmart for under $5 -900ml):

upload_2019-7-17_11-18-5.png


Then, cut the vent filter in half using a hack saw:

upload_2019-7-17_11-18-30.png


Empty the old pellets, and remove the sponge retainer pads by pushing them out from the ends. You can wash the pads and let them dry for reuse:

upload_2019-7-17_11-18-53.png


Remove 1" of the label (with a razor knife) where you will be gluing the new fittings on. Then install the fittings with the primer and glue. Let this cure before adding the new pellets:

upload_2019-7-17_11-20-29.png


Place the pads back into the ends and fill the two halves completely with new carbon pellets, and screw the two halves together using teflon tape:

upload_2019-7-17_11-20-51.png


You could replace the 30 ppi foam retaining pads with new foam: PetSmart has 30 ppi filter pads of the same thickness that you could cut them out of. However, I found the existing foam to be fine.

You could even make the whole thing if you do not already use a vent filter. The pipe is 14" long. The only thing missing in the pics above is this retaining wire screen stuffed in the ends first:

upload_2019-7-17_11-21-10.png
 
Good morning fellas, my friend with a 320 lost power to the right side push pad on his dash. He's been problem solving it for a few days and he believes the whole pad is shot.

Don't ask how, why or when, etc..lol cause I don't have these answers.

Anyone know where he can find one of these?
 
Last edited:
View attachment 67692 The waxing is almost done! Going in the water on Thursday. So excited to start our next journey with our new to us Dancer.

I noticed that your 320 has a V-Drive and that you're on a trailer. Two things/questions:
1. Would you mind forwarding a picture of the backend of your trailer? I've a buddy who does a lot of commercial metal fabricating. He can/will build or modify an existing trailer for me if I wind up with a V-Driver rater than the I/O I want. But we want to see how the back/rear end of the trailer accommodates the V-Drive.
2. Do you find much/many restrictions as to where you can put-in at the various boat ramps due to the additional restrictions of the lower props (than an I/O) and shaft? Obviously due to the size of the 320, you're not (nor would I) be putting in a small river or smaller lake where shorter and shallower ramps are prevalent.

Thanks.
 
As I visit 320s attempting to find the right one for us to buy, I've noticed that on the power engine room hatch cover on the 320 V-Drive models, the entire aft section comes up revealing all of the engine compartment. On the 310’s I’ve seen, there is only a smaller power cover revealing only about ½ the engine room. Since I haven’t been able to find any local 320 with the I/O outdrives, I’m curious if this larger sized engine hatch cover is a standard part of the 320 or only on the V-Drives with the engine further amid ship?
 
As I visit 320s attempting to find the right one for us to buy, I've noticed that on the power engine room hatch cover on the 320 V-Drive models, the entire aft section comes up revealing all of the engine compartment. On the 310’s I’ve seen, there is only a smaller power cover revealing only about ½ the engine room. Since I haven’t been able to find any local 320 with the I/O outdrives, I’m curious if this larger sized engine hatch cover is a standard part of the 320 or only on the V-Drives with the engine further amid ship?

I figured this one out: The large power-engine-hatch is on both the 2006 and 2007! COOOOOL! Reason enough to concentrate on those two.
 
Hello, I have a 2007 320 (recently purchased) and the depth finer on the VesselView SC5000 works for about 10 mins when I start the boat then shows - - ?
Any ideas?
Is the transducers bad?
Has anyone experienced this?
 
Hello, I have a 2007 320 (recently purchased) and the depth finer on the VesselView SC5000 works for about 10 mins when I start the boat then shows - - ?
Any ideas?
Is the transducers bad?
Has anyone experienced this?
Same year 320 here. I had the same problem. The transducer cable had degraded. Wanted to get rid of the old C80, so I bought a new Axiom 9 and the corresponding transducer.
 
Good morning fellas, my friend with a 320 lost power to the right side push pad on his dash. He's been problem solving it for a few days and he believes the whole pad is shot.

Don't ask how, why or when, etc..lol cause I don't have these answers.

Anyone know where he can find one of these?

Check the wiring harness connector on the starboard engine. I had same problem and found loose plug, must have hit it when working on that side of the engine bay.
 
Can any of you help me with the part # for the oil pressure sending unit? I am having trouble finding it.
 
To know you are getting the correct part number and part, it is best to have the engine serial number. You can go to many different sites (just google Mercruiser parts) and put in the correct info and it will advise you of the part number. Personally I call my local Mercruiser Auth Service center. He has my numbers on file, advises part number and price. I then shop around for best price and he will match it, although he usually spot on with everyone else. Delivery to him is next day if not in stock. Very nice to have this relationship as the service manager there also helps me trouble shoot things as well.
 
Can any of you help me with the part # for the oil pressure sending unit? I am having trouble finding it.
To know you are getting the correct part number and part, it is best to have the engine serial number. You can go to many different sites (just google Mercruiser parts) and put in the correct info and it will advise you of the part number. Personally I call my local Mercruiser Auth Service center. He has my numbers on file, advises part number and price. I then shop around for best price and he will match it, although he usually spot on with everyone else. Delivery to him is next day if not in stock. Very nice to have this relationship as the service manager there also helps me trouble shoot things as well.



Thank you! I was over thinking this lol
 
Our short Michigan season just got shorter


Last week while out I lost oil pressure (went down to 20ish PSI). When I start the boat it will increase back to 35ish but continue to lose pressure the longer the engine was running.

So the mechanic came out to the boat today to see if he could figure out what's going on.

He believes its a loose/bad bearing of some sort (mentioned cam bearing, rod bearing and a few other types of bearings). When he increased the RPMs to 2300 he heard a lot of knocking......:mad:

He's telling me we're gonna need to pull the engine and tear it down to see what exactly is causing this. Possible engine rebuild
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,111
Messages
1,426,264
Members
61,025
Latest member
jralcorn
Back
Top