Official 320 Dancer Thread

[Todd320]

Did you end up using the cup holder you posted from amazon?

Yes, sure did. Technically needed 5, but just reused an old one and cleaned it up, then dropped it in next to captains chair.

 

[JJML]

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Speaking of plugging in holes, has anyone come across a plug that fits in the circular hole that holds the post that connects to the cockpit and galley tables? When I put away either table, my grandkids always seem to step in the empty circular hole and I would like to find a plug that would prevent that from happening.

 

[FlyingRock]

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Speaking of plugging in holes, has anyone come across a plug that fits in the circular hole that holds the post that connects to the cockpit and galley tables? When I put away either table, my grandkids always seem to step in the empty circular hole and I would like to find a plug that would prevent that from happening.

Great query. Would love to find a similar piece - if it exists!

 

[BAC.94]

Yes, sure did. Technically needed 5, but just reused an old one and cleaned it up, then dropped it in next to captains chair.

Was there any modification needed to the existing cut out to fit the new SS cup holders?

 

[Todd320]

Was there any modification needed to the existing cut out to fit the new SS cup holders?

None, the only thing that took time was cleaning off the old gunk from the previous install, and some dirt buildup. The holes needed zero adjustment.

 

[Grosen]

Has anyone done complete
Shaft seal kit and cutless bearing and have estimate I can compare to my estimate I got ? Thanks.

 

[kkirby7226]

Has anyone replaced the rubber gaskets around the two small windows in the middle of the windshield on the 320 as shown in the pic? If so, where did you purchase them, do you have the item order #, and, how did you do the upper window? The lower one would be easy as the glass opens up accessing the gasket, but the upper one I'm not sure about.


View attachment 59064

I've been searching for the bottom gasket for three years with no luck.

 

[scooper321]

Has anyone done complete
Shaft seal kit and cutless bearing and have estimate I can compare to my estimate I got ? Thanks.

$1000 to replace 2 cutlass bearings and seals. Not including haul out or prop removal or reinstall.

 

[Craig]

$1000 to replace 2 cutlass bearings and seals. Not including haul out or prop removal or reinstall.

Thats about right.

 

[scooper321]

Thats about right.

It’s exactly right. I read it from my MarineMax invoice!

 

[scooper321]

So I’ve got the ZF63v1 V drives on my boat. I’ve been search and searching on line for the manual. No luck. I found the manual for the ZF63 (no V). All I really want to know is what the interval is for changing transmission oil. Does anyone have a copy, or a link, they can share?

Thanks,

 

[Todd320]

So I’ve got the ZF63v1 V drives on my boat. I’ve been search and searching on line for the manual. No luck. I found the manual for the ZF63 (no V). All I really want to know is what the interval is for changing transmission oil. Does anyone have a copy, or a link, they can share?

Thanks,

I see you found my post from 2017?
Reposting here in case others are looking for it.

 

[Larry Sturm]

Yes, sure did. Technically needed 5, but just reused an old one and cleaned it up, then dropped it in next to captains chair.

Great idea to upgrade to the stainless cup holders. Just installed 7 in my boat. Looks great. Thanks

 

[Southern Cross]

Posting an update to AAK’s original post on how to change the impellers on a Sea Ray 320 with V-Drives. Our 320 has twin Mercruiser 350s but I think things are pretty similar for the 6.2s. A schematic of the water pump is attached at the end of the post for reference.

I wrote this a reminder to myself for next time and maybe some new owners will find it helpful.

Many thanks to AAK for the original posting which helped me figure things out.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/raw-water-pump-impeller-install-6-2l-v-drives.28000/

A few notes before you begin:

--Removing the port muffler seems excessive but trust me, it is not difficult (a few hose clamps and 4 phillips screws) and you will appreciate the workspace it opens up.

--Also, resist the temptation to remove the bracket (#12) holding the water pump to the engine. There is a small tab on the bracket that holds it against the harmonic balancer. That tab combines with the length of the bracket stud (#15) to make removing and reinstalling the pump as one assembly near impossible. If you remove bolt #17 and nut #16, the pump will slide out a bit and provide some wiggle room to work.

--Removing the Cool Fuel Module is also not required.

Prep the work area:

1. Close the seacock.

2. Purge the system of water with the air actuated single point drain system.

3. Remove both exhaust hoses from the elbows on the port engine and the inboard hose on the starboard engine. Loosen the hose clamps more than you think you need and use a little WD40 helps loosen the hoses.

4. Remove the port muffler.

5. Loosen the tensioner pulley and remove the serpentine belt (take a picture of belt routing or only undo one side at a time).

You are now ready to open the water pump and access the impeller.

6. There are three 10mm bolts (2x #11 and #13) connecting the pump to the bracket (#12) on the engine. A small/mini 10mm box wrench is needed and bolt #11 will come out 1/4 turn at a time. A mini ratchet box wrench would make this easier. Yes, it is slow and a PITA but it is possible and only takes a few minutes.

7. The pump can rest on the hull providing more room to work.

8. Remove the 4x bolts (#10) holding the water pump halves together. There is no need to remove the water lines from the pump.

9. Take the pump housing out of the engine compartment and replace the impeller (#2) and o-ring (#3). The old impeller will come out with pliers or vice grips. You can use a zip tie to hold the new impeller blades down while you fit it in the housing. Make sure to lubricate the new impeller and pump chamber with dawn soap or Vaseline.

10. Reconnect both halves of the water pump using the 4x 10mm bolts (#10). Make sure you do not put the #10 bolts through holes for the #11 bolts that mount to the bracket. (I learned that the hard way)

11. Reconnect the reassembled water pump to the bracket. I started by hand tightening #13 then moving the pump to get both #11 screws lined up. Then I tightened them with the wrench. Again, the screw nearest the Cool Fuel Module takes time but it can be done.

12. Reinstall the serpentine belt.

13. Open the seacock.

Repeat steps 5-12 for the starboard engine.

**Do not forget to open seacocks before starting engines**


The procedure for replacing the entire pump is not much different. Removing and reconnecting the water hoses is a little tricky. I found it easier to do with the pump in two pieces rather than as an entire unit.


Also, I had the dealer remove the pulley from the old pump and put it on the new one. Cost was 1/2 hour labor but my desire to wrestle that was pretty low that day.


I ended up doing this twice over two weekends. First time I replaced the impellers, put it all back together only to realize one water pump was scored and should be replaced. Back into the bilge I went...


The learning curve helped, but with these instructions I should be able to do both impellers in under 4 hours next time (hopefully not before 2 years!)

 

[Todd320]

So to remove the muffler, just undo the 4 screws which appear to be at the base of the muffler, then undo the hose clamps on each exhaust tube leading into the muffler? I’m guessing you might not have to remove all of the exhaust tubes to move the muffler, or do you?

 

[Southern Cross]

So to remove the muffler, just undo the 4 screws which appear to be at the base of the muffler, then undo the hose clamps on each exhaust tube leading into the muffler? I’m guessing you might not have to remove all of the exhaust tubes to move the muffler, or do you?

I did remove all the exhaust hoses from the port muffler then removed the muffler. I only removed the inboard exhaust hose from the starboard engine--nothing else was required on that side.

For the port side, I started by loosening the hose connections at the muffler and sliding out the plastic "elbows" that connect the engine hoses to the exhaust (lower #8s in your photo). These came out easy and gave room for me to wiggle the hoses at the engine exhaust elbow and pull the exhaust hoses back for removal (upper #8s in the photo).

With both the inboard and outboard exhaust hoses removed, I then disconnected (at the muffler) the large elbow (#2) and smaller hose that runs from the muffler to the thruhull. With these disconnected, you can remove the muffler.

Exhaust hose #3 is a hard plastic PITA--literally. I ended up disconnecting it at the other end (that leads to the underwater exhaust) and sliding it out of the way. Without that poking me in the backside things were a little more zen in the engine room.

I know all this sounds like a lot and if there is an easier way let me know. After trying it without removing the muffler though I realized that the ~40min prepping the workspace made it much easier to reach things.

Hope that helps.

 

[Todd320]

This is great thanks. I’ll probably not work on the engines, but I have tried to work on the generator, rudders, and replaced the blower, and all would have been so much better had I just spent 2 hours removing the muffler. Don’t even care if it takes twice as long! When putting the muffler back together any sealant needed, or just connect back the way it was?

 

[Southern Cross]

This is great thanks. I’ll probably not work on the engines, but I have tried to work on the generator, rudders, and replaced the blower, and all would have been so much better had I just spent 2 hours removing the muffler. Don’t even care if it takes twice as long! When putting the muffler back together any sealant needed, or just connect back the way it was?

No sealant required. Just make sure you tighten all the clamps and check for leaks. The screws for the muffler have some some silicon around them, that is to protect the wood base the muffler and generator sit on.

It probably only takes 45min to remove everything. The hoses take a little wrestling, but with the clamps loosened all the way and a little WD40 they come out.

Generator access is very easy with all this removed.

 

[scooper321]

Wow. I’m always willing to turn a wrench if I can, but reading this makes me think paying the boat yard a couple bucks each spring to replace my impellers is money well spent!

And how the hell would you accomplish if an impeller died at sea? I guess the same way. But that would add considerable time and difficulty to the task, I’m sure.

 

[Irie308]

I did this 2 season ago on our previous 320. I'm so glad I did. It was one the most painful things I've done on the boat since. I say i'm glad i did because it got me really up close and personal with the pumps and how they are installed. This past August on the way to the Vineyard i snapped a raw water pump shaft in the middle of Long Island Sound. I was able to pull in and swap out the entire pump within a few hours. I would have been laid up for a few days if i didn't know how. Its also way more fun to do when the engines are hot!