Official 290 Sundancer Thread

My wife and I were talking about this yesterday. I live in a place where there is always a current sometime up to 4 kts. I have the Rocna 10? and it is useless. I don't think I have ever put it down and not been swept away. Maybe it is the currents but we are looking to upsize our anchor and possibly manufacturer.
Rocna Vulcan 27lb. here. Works great never breaks free. 40-50 MPH gusts at Lake Powell
 
Anyone happen to have or can get the Airmar part number of the Smartcraft through-hull transducer in the engine room? Apparently there is a small label near the end of the wire/cable near the transducer. I do not believe mine has this sticker any more, but I will double check this weekend.

My transducer is leaking a small amount of water. I talked to Airmar and they said it likely is the o-rings. Looking at my blocking plug, one of the two o-rings is dry rotted and cracked. I need the Airmar part number to ensure which rebuild kit to buy which includes the o-rings.

They also mentioned I should be removing the transducer every winterization and lubing the o-rings which I was not aware of.
Pyro. I feel your pain. I went through this last year and after measuring my o-rings and ordering 3 different sizes I settled on the S70221, 221 Silicone O-ring 70A Durometer. 1-7/16" ID, 1-11/16" OD 1/8" width. Ordered from The O-ring Store. They are cheap. As I said, I ordered 3 different sizes and this package is the one I wrote "Transuder" on so I'm hoping it's the right one. If not let me know and I'll give you the other sizes i ordered as well.
 
For those of you who have a boat hook. Where do you mount/keep it for easy access?
 
My wife and I have decided that we probably won't get the trips out of ours this year that we were hoping for and so it pains me to say it, but she is officially up for sale in the Seattle area. Let me know if you are interested. We are officially starting to plan for our water home.
 
Here is the pic of my new NR751 Norcold 2.7 CF installed this past weekend.
CSR refrigerator.jpg
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I replaced my aft, port window this evening. It is curing for 24 hrs, before I clean it up entirely.

Very easy, scary easy really. I simply pushed up on the corner where it was leaking and it just lifted up. The caulk / silicone that is in the repaired one looks much better than Stbd.....so I will probably make it match tomorrow.

Taped the hull around the hole, taped the window and shaved right up to the edge with a razor. Used white, marine, silicone and laid down a nickel to quarter size bead all around the inside edge. Used a suction cup to position the glass properly. It sits on top of 4 little foam cushions that are OEM. Used a razor to scrape off excess and smooth out the edge between the hull and the glass. Placed a Rigid drill and full bottle of window cleaner on top to keep the pressure down and even. 2 hrs later removed both sides of tape.
 
Brand new to the site and first time boat owner as of about a week ago.

There was some standing water in what looks to be a storage compartment underneath the mattress in the aft berth under the port side chaise lounge seat. Some light stain on the bottom of the mattress.

The surveyor couldn't find any leaks in engine compartment on sea trial. All looked well in that respect. There was some moisture under the seat on deck which is above the berth area, but no stains or moisture on the mattress itself. Just underneath, and the sitting water in the storage area.

The sellers, who seem to be upfront and honest the whole way through had noticed the water in this same spot once over the 10 year period they owned the boat.

We soaked it up 5 days ago. Took her out yesterday for a few hours(she stays in the water in a slip in between runs now) and last night there was slight dampness under the mattress again and only a small amount of moisture in the storage compartment. Nothing major in either spot.

No stains in the head board in the berth, no wood stains in the cabinetry at all. We have used the A/C for a few nights in a row now and the sump pump(which needs a cleaning) seems to be working properly and exiting water every so often when the A/C is on. There is a slight film of yellowish substance beneath the sump pump box also. This is located under the steps from deck to cabin and just behind a side wall in the berth cubby.

Any ideas here? I appreciate any insight in advance!

2001 290 Sundancer
Twin Mercruiser 5.7 EFI with Bravo 3
 
Well, I have some good and bad news. The bad, I have sold my boat and won't be taking any more trips up to the San Juan's this year. The good news, the boat was on the market for less than 2 days, lots of interest and the first person who viewed it, is buying it.
 
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Doing a solar install on a 99 290 Sundancer. Looking for advice on running the cables from the arch to the batteries via the battery switch compartment. Not sure how to run them once I get down to where the arch meets the sidewalk. Thanks!
 
For those of you who have a boat hook. Where do you mount/keep it for easy access?
I keep a floating and telescoping “shorty” boat hook from West Marine in the transom locker.
 
Hey Steve,
I was just quoted $1467 for the two color Sea Dek in my '07 290. Yours should be similar. They already have custom patterns.
Rob
I know this is an older post, but I just bought a 2007, 290. Do you have any pics of your install?
 
I'm looking for ideas & suggestions on how to upgrade the MFD electronics. I'm looking at the usual Raymarine Axiom & Garmin 86 series. The factory installed Raymarine C80 has a pretty large cutout, so to fit it, I'm looking at the 12" models. But it's a pretty tight fit, not sure if it will work. Worried the 9" might be too small, but they are much more affordable.

Also looking for tips on transducers. All I really need is a simple depth. The Smartcraft depth transducer would likely send data to the MFD via the SmartCraft to NMEA convertor. But it would be cool to play with the fancy transducers. The in hull are pretty expensive ~$800 and require some fiberglass work. The transom model is cheap but not sure how it will work or where I will place it with twin outdrives.

Any suggestions for someone who's already gone through this are appreciated. Any pics would be great.
 
I replaced all of my lights with LED's. Most of them were bought on Ebay. The interior reading lights can be bought a Menards. The "festoon" style (all of your exterior lights - arch, cockpit, nav) can be bought on Ebay.

Just take the factory bulbs out and measure the lengths and match up with the festoon style on Ebay. The cockpit bulbs are longer than the nav lights.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Festoon+LED+Marine+bulbs&_sacat=0

We just replaced the cabin lights with LED's and they look/work great. Check out superbrightleds.com.
 
I'm looking for ideas & suggestions on how to upgrade the MFD electronics. I'm looking at the usual Raymarine Axiom & Garmin 86 series. The factory installed Raymarine C80 has a pretty large cutout, so to fit it, I'm looking at the 12" models. But it's a pretty tight fit, not sure if it will work. Worried the 9" might be too small, but they are much more affordable.

Also looking for tips on transducers. All I really need is a simple depth. The Smartcraft depth transducer would likely send data to the MFD via the SmartCraft to NMEA convertor. But it would be cool to play with the fancy transducers. The in hull are pretty expensive ~$800 and require some fiberglass work. The transom model is cheap but not sure how it will work or where I will place it with twin outdrives.

Any suggestions for someone who's already gone through this are appreciated. Any pics would be great.
I'm looking for ideas & suggestions on how to upgrade the MFD electronics. I'm looking at the usual Raymarine Axiom & Garmin 86 series. The factory installed Raymarine C80 has a pretty large cutout, so to fit it, I'm looking at the 12" models. But it's a pretty tight fit, not sure if it will work. Worried the 9" might be too small, but they are much more affordable.

Also looking for tips on transducers. All I really need is a simple depth. The Smartcraft depth transducer would likely send data to the MFD via the SmartCraft to NMEA convertor. But it would be cool to play with the fancy transducers. The in hull are pretty expensive ~$800 and require some fiberglass work. The transom model is cheap but not sure how it will work or where I will place it with twin outdrives.

Any suggestions for someone who's already gone through this are appreciated. Any pics would be great.

Here is what I did with mine. I can tell you the Axiom 9’s work great and the cutout for the Axiom 9 was actually bigger then my original Northstar 6000i. Not sure how it compares to the C80 but maybe that will help. One thing I noticed with the old units, is there is a lot more of the unit in front of the panel then the newer style MFDs. So the cutout is bigger on the newer MFDs then the older ones. Also I went with the RV 3D sounder from Raymarine. Haven’t installed it yet, but soon. I added a Smartcraft adapter and get depth no problem. I went with 2 Axiom 9’s to use one for engine data and the other as my chart plotter. While I was at it I had my helm panels redone to give it a more modern look. Which also meant having my switch pad covers redone to match. Any questions feel free to ask I love the look and I love the functionality of having dual 9’s. I just started my Fusion radio install which will tie in with the Axiom via NMEA2000. Also plan on installing the Bennet trim tab indicators so I can see my trim tab locations on the Axioms. BTW, I bought 2 Axiom 9's cheaper then price of one 12". Plus they had a $250 per unit rebate going on in December. So $500 off for 2 MFD's made it an easy decision!

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