Official 280 Sundancer Thread

just1time said:
You have a XDM3 not a XDM1.
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Might be time for an upgrade then. Before you go that route, they make bluetooth connection devices that transmit to the head unit via fm signal. I used to have one in an older car. May be a cheap solution for you. Here is an example on amazon: FM Transmitter for Car Bluetooth 5.3, RIWUSI [All-Metal] PD 20W & QC3.0 18W Fast Car Charger, Wireless FM Radio Car Kit Bluetooth Car Adapter, Noise Cancelling Hands-Free Call, Hi-Fi Music, Blue Light (amazon.com)
 
Josh28161 said:
Might be time for an upgrade then. Before you go that route, they make bluetooth connection devices that transmit to the head unit via fm signal. I used to have one in an older car. May be a cheap solution for you. Here is an example on amazon: FM Transmitter for Car Bluetooth 5.3, RIWUSI [All-Metal] PD 20W & QC3.0 18W Fast Car Charger, Wireless FM Radio Car Kit Bluetooth Car Adapter, Noise Cancelling Hands-Free Call, Hi-Fi Music, Blue Light (amazon.com)
Click to expand...

Thanks
I currently use a FM Transmitter. The FM Transmitter works great but can sometimes be plagued by static etc. I am just looking for something with a more solid connection.

Found this link online and I believe is a good cheap solution for me.
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/...ing-iPod-MP3-to-Clarion-XMD-1=&highlight=xmd1
 
Gunn said:
Finally, a new steering wheel to remove the old cracked and rusted one! Five minute change and $142.00. I think it's in keeping with the look of the original and feels great. I would have saved $36 if I could have found a wheel where I could reuse the existing hub adapter (this wheel has a 70mm circle pattern, the old I think was 74mm), but that's ok. Much better than trying to find an original for $$$.

Tom

View attachment 129453
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Looks like a perfect wheel. I need to replace my cracked one. Would you mind listing where you sourced this one from? Thank you!
 
Hello all. First and foremost, thanks to all who have contributed to this forum. It's been an invaluable resource. We just started with our "new to us" '04 280 DA.
I need some help (surely the first of many requests).
I've searched the forum but can't find the thread that addresses how to remove the side / vertical cushions in the Vee berth. Ours are in need of replacement.
Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Josh28161 said:
Might be time for an upgrade then. Before you go that route, they make bluetooth connection devices that transmit to the head unit via fm signal. I used to have one in an older car. May be a cheap solution for you. Here is an example on amazon: FM Transmitter for Car Bluetooth 5.3, RIWUSI [All-Metal] PD 20W & QC3.0 18W Fast Car Charger, Wireless FM Radio Car Kit Bluetooth Car Adapter, Noise Cancelling Hands-Free Call, Hi-Fi Music, Blue Light (amazon.com)
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figured I would add this to this thread. hopefully someone will find it useful.
I have the xdm1 with no aux and bluetooth. I didnt want to spend money to overhaul the audio.
Found this hack that cost less than $40. Works PERFECT...QUality is AWESOME.
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/...ing-iPod-MP3-to-Clarion-XMD-1=&highlight=xmd1
 
Well folks, had an eye-opening 4th adventure.. We launched the boat after getting new Nav gear and was going to dock it at the house just in time to get out next morning for the fireworks in up the bay.

First issue was the port engine not cranking but the starboard lit off just fine. Since it had been sitting in the shop for two weeks, I figured batteries just need a boost to get to cranking charge. So I ran on starboard engine and cranked up generator. Figuring both should charge up the batteries and then overnight on the shoreline at home.

Unfortunately, the always fickle, and irregular, tides in Mobile Bay were at their worst. 100 yds from my dock I lost draft. It is always tight but never had a problem before so it must have been the spring full moon tide..

I figured that I would just sit tight and ride it out until I got the small amount of tide that I needed.. Idled down to just starboard engine as Port was getting hot. And left generator running.. Still had intakes under water and generator was pissing fine and starboard engine was keeping cool..

Sat back to sit it out when things got screwy.. First generator stopped pissing and I had to shot it down.. I am guessing a clog? It will start back up and run just long enough to either hit a low water flow or high temp shutoff.. Not good..

I thought starboard engine should keep me in charge but apparently not.. Soon I noticed load shedding as gauges went dark. Then the low voltage alarm. Revving engine did jot help.. I presume this means no alternator on the starboard engine. FIRST lesson learned.. I was able to limp along by starting generator for a minute at a time to fend off the alarms until I got just enough tide (another hour) and got it to my dock..

Do I have a bunch of questions as this boat is new to me... 2005 280 Sundancer. Twin 5.0 mercruisers with heat exchangers. Ask if any more needed information..

Questions:

1. Starboard engine has no ability to charge batteries, correct? Can an alternator be added?

2. Does Port engine have an alternator? Can one be added?

3. I guess from poring through manuals that big stuff like fridge and a/c only run from generator or Shore power. Correct?

3. Where is the intake for the generator? Is it easy enough to close the sea cock, unhook the hose, open the sea cock and try to blow it out with a garden hose from the dock?

4. I have 3 batteries. How does the battery A B work with a third battery?

5. After being on shoreline for how many days can I test batteries to verify if still good. They are only about 6 months old..

6. What else did I miss?

Thanks,

-ed
 
Congratulations on the new to you boat. The 280 is a fantastic model. For your questions I have a few thoughts.

for the charging questions, both motors have alternators but 2 batteries are charged by one engine and the other battery is charged by the other motor. There is a cross over switch between the two start rockers on the dash. That will tie all 3 together as long as you hold the button down. This is intended as a start helper if one of the 2 banks is too weak to start.

When on shore power, the inverter will charge all 3, and you can use its gauge/indicator light to make sure they are charging.

for the refrigerator, they are 12v or 120v, wired for both. There will be a 12v breaker in the cabin you can turn on to run it from the batteries. Not a huge draw. For the a/c, big draw so only works from shore power or your generator. My boat didn’t come with a generator so I can’t offer any input there.

Josh
 
just1time said:
Am learning a lot on the go.So Pardon my dull mind but can Someone please help enlighten me on a few more things about the Sundancer.

1. WASTE & WATER . . .
-Besides going down into the engine hatch to look, is there anyway one is warned when the [black/gray water] tank is getting full? Curious on How often most pump out?
-Same for fresh water tank(which is actually concealed), any way to know when the tank is running low besides guesstimating?
Click to expand...

I actually joined this site to research this exact question. My 280 is a 2001. I've searched the boat over and can find no meters for fresh/gray/black water tanks. I've checked the owner's manual which shows a pic/drawing on the main panel, but someone has hand-written next to it "misprint".

If you have a newer model and can tell me where yours is, I could at least verify that mine is or isn't in that place.
 
pnwtoc said:
I actually joined this site to research this exact question. My 280 is a 2001. I've searched the boat over and can find no meters for fresh/gray/black water tanks. I've checked the owner's manual which shows a pic/drawing on the main panel, but someone has hand-written next to it "misprint".

If you have a newer model and can tell me where yours is, I could at least verify that mine is or isn't in that place.
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I would imagine the answer is already somewhere in this thread - and if you haven't yet done so, read through the entire thread - there is a TON of good/useful information.

But... doesn't the head master switch panel (in the head) have a display? Assuming the floats aren't stuck and they're working, that's the answer.

Look in the 280DA manual - there is info in there about this (on SR's site). If you don't have the proper one, look at a different model year. Look for the "supplement" owner' manual.
 
The answer is not already somewhere in this thread. No, I haven't read all 7,652 posts but I have searched this thread for the terms "freshwater", "blackwater", etc. The quoted post was the only one I found. I have all the manuals including the Owner's Manual Supplement (paper copies for 2001, pdfs for 2002 from the SR website). I've searched them thoroughly.

I have come to the conclusion that there is no freshwater meter on my boat. What I've pasted below is literally all the manual says. But I am unable to find what they are talking about. If someone is able to tell me where the "water level switch on the main distributor panel located in the salon" is, I'd be grateful. I'm thinking it's a misprint.

upload_2023-8-8_20-44-39.png

upload_2023-8-8_20-45-4.png

The greywater just runs out thru a drain hole in the starboard side (so don't pee in the shower, I guess).

Yes, there is a switch panel in the head. When I turn the key, the only thing that lights up is POWER. Neither FULL, 1/2, EMPTY, or GROUND can be seen.
upload_2023-8-8_20-55-11.png

While reading the Owner's Manual itself, I did get a kick out of this sentence: "The Owner's Manual Packet in your boat contains information pertaining to your head system that should be carefully read." A similar statement shows up in the Supplement.
 
pnwtoc said:
The answer is not already somewhere in this thread. No, I haven't read all 7,652 posts but I have searched this thread for the terms "freshwater", "blackwater", etc. The quoted post was the only one I found. I have all the manuals including the Owner's Manual Supplement (paper copies for 2001, pdfs for 2002 from the SR website). I've searched them thoroughly.

I have come to the conclusion that there is no freshwater meter on my boat. What I've pasted below is literally all the manual says. But I am unable to find what they are talking about. If someone is able to tell me where the "water level switch on the main distributor panel located in the salon" is, I'd be grateful. I'm thinking it's a misprint.

View attachment 148828
View attachment 148829
The greywater just runs out thru a drain hole in the starboard side (so don't pee in the shower, I guess).

Yes, there is a switch panel in the head. When I turn the key, the only thing that lights up is POWER. Neither FULL, 1/2, EMPTY, or GROUND can be seen.
View attachment 148830
While reading the Owner's Manual itself, I did get a kick out of this sentence: "The Owner's Manual Packet in your boat contains information pertaining to your head system that should be carefully read." A similar statement shows up in the Supplement.
Click to expand...
Well, if you haven't actually read through the entire thread, the answer could still be there. Searching doesn't always work! Either way, if you want to learn about your boat - read the thread.

But, your initial post asked about fresh/grey/blackwater tanks... but now you're being more specific and are interested in the fresh water tank level? No, there is no level for the fresh water tank in smaller boats. Just for the black water tank. There's is no such thing as a specific grey water tank. If your boat had the grey water system, grey water would dump into the black water tank.

The answer about why your lights don't light is already mentioned above - or, at least, that's the most common reason. You'll have to check them out.
 
Question regarding AquaTraction Quote:

Greetings,

I had an authorized AquaTraction Dealer provide a quote for me on my 280 Sundancer. He is quoting me approx ($3,350.00) total including the swim platform and step into the cabin. Total job would be about 85 sqft according to him.

This honestly seems pretty high but was wondering what everyones thoughts where on this.

I spoke with SeaDek and they quoted me 700 per sheet (including measurements and install), they take care of everything, and told me my boat should be below 3 sheets total ($2,100.00)

Is the difference in cost because of how much each dealer is sizing me up to gouge as much as possible? Or, is AquaTraction a far more superior product?

I've seen mixed reviews for both companies. The color, would be a brown teak with black lines. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Armada said:
Question regarding AquaTraction Quote:

Greetings,

I had an authorized AquaTraction Dealer provide a quote for me on my 280 Sundancer. He is quoting me approx ($3,350.00) total including the swim platform and step into the cabin. Total job would be about 85 sqft according to him.

This honestly seems pretty high but was wondering what everyones thoughts where on this.

I spoke with SeaDek and they quoted me 700 per sheet (including measurements and install), they take care of everything, and told me my boat should be below 3 sheets total ($2,100.00)

Is the difference in cost because of how much each dealer is sizing me up to gouge as much as possible? Or, is AquaTraction a far more superior product?

I've seen mixed reviews for both companies. The color, would be a brown teak with black lines. Any feedback is appreciated.
Click to expand...
You should complete your profile with your location. This is particularly important with this question.
You'd be surprised how many times it important.
 
Lost my chain and anchor due to a a deteriorated rope.
Found one ready made but the chain is 5/16" as opposed to the 1/4" from factory for the winlass.
Can 5/16" be used in the place of 1/4" for the winlass?
 
just1time said:
Lost my chain and anchor due to a a deteriorated rope.
Found one ready made but the chain is 5/16" as opposed to the 1/4" from factory for the winlass.
Can 5/16" be used in the place of 1/4" for the winlass?
Click to expand...
It should be stamped or embossed on the gypsy of your windlass at to what size chain can and should be used.
 
just1time said:
Lost my chain and anchor due to a a deteriorated rope.
Found one ready made but the chain is 5/16" as opposed to the 1/4" from factory for the winlass.
Can 5/16" be used in the place of 1/4" for the winlass?
Click to expand...
No, it can't.
 
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