Official 280 Sundancer Thread

[DWABoat]

Took another picture for you. When you crawl into the locker under the helm you'll see a bunch of wires, control cables etc. going through the bulkhead (pic below). Using a short fishtape through there the fish tape will exit into the area directly below (pic from my post #6723). It's only a couple of feet so the shorter the fishtape the better. You can then attach the wire(s) and pull them through pretty easily.

Also going into the ER bulkhead I think you're better off drilling a new hole vs. going through the access hole that has the control cables and wires. That's a pretty big hole with lots of silicone and I personally wouldn't want to disturb that grouping. Pretty easy to silicone up a small hole for the new wires.

View attachment 77975

I see the hole in the starboard side under the helm. It has lots of wires.
Unfortunately, there are no visible screws in my mid cabin berth. I guess the panels have never been off. I really don’t want to start tearing up the boat. Looking for suggestions.

My first priority is to find a route from helm to galley. Short run, for sure, but I will have to get around the head.

I plan to install a new Standard Horizon VHF at the helm with the connected RAM4 handset in the galley. I want to monitor VHF in the cabin while at anchor and I want the intercom feature back to the main radio from the galley.
I can easily install the base at the helm, but am looking for a way to get the RAM4 wire into the galley. No need for the Engine Room in this yet. Do you know the best route?

 

[DWABoat]

Anyway you could post pics of the process? Thinking about tackling this

These are not pics of the process. I did not take any while I was doing the ball replacement. I have three photos of my lower door track and one of an aftermarket track. I am sure this track has been replaced with the replacement track from Boat Outfitters because it looks identical. I just got the boat a few months ago, so I don’t have a long term maintenance history.
I removed the three through bolts and two screws and the upper section of the lower door track freely moved. After wedging the door up a smidgen, I took the end plugs out. I could then wrangle the two balls out.
If your door track is not like this one you likely have the original track.

 

[Captn TJ]

I see the hole in the starboard side under the helm. It has lots of wires.
Unfortunately, there are no visible screws in my mid cabin berth. I guess the panels have never been off. I really don’t want to start tearing up the boat. Looking for suggestions.

My first priority is to find a route from helm to galley. Short run, for sure, but I will have to get around the head.

I plan to install a new Standard Horizon VHF at the helm with the connected RAM4 handset in the galley. I want to monitor VHF in the cabin while at anchor and I want the intercom feature back to the main radio from the galley.
I can easily install the base at the helm, but am looking for a way to get the RAM4 wire into the galley. No need for the Engine Room in this yet. Do you know the best route?

I installed a SH radio last year but without the remote mic. As an FYI I made a backing plate out of 1/4" starboard. Looks great I take a pic next time I'm out to the boat.

I haven't run wires into the galley but if I needed to I'd probably opt for going between the headliner and the cabin top. You can get some access though the compass and the light in the head. Remove both of those and you'll see wires for both of those devices.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Personally, from my experience, I've never had an issue going through the globs of silicone while following the steerinng cable. You might even find that there are spots where there's already a hole - never filled all the way or possible didn't seal completely. You can certainly go about it any way you want that feels right to you - but following the steering cable will work just fine.

My first priority is to find a route from helm to galley. Short run, for sure, but I will have to get around the head.

The outer head wall isn't tight to the hull. There's plenty of space there to run wires. Once you get into/behind the dash and/or remove the cubby by your feet, you'll get a better idea of what I'm talking about. It's a pretty easy/straight shot past the head.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I see the hole in the starboard side under the helm. It has lots of wires.
Unfortunately, there are no visible screws in my mid cabin berth. I guess the panels have never been off. I really don’t want to start tearing up the boat. Looking for suggestions.

My first priority is to find a route from helm to galley. Short run, for sure, but I will have to get around the head.

I plan to install a new Standard Horizon VHF at the helm with the connected RAM4 handset in the galley. I want to monitor VHF in the cabin while at anchor and I want the intercom feature back to the main radio from the galley.
I can easily install the base at the helm, but am looking for a way to get the RAM4 wire into the galley. No need for the Engine Room in this yet. Do you know the best route?

Don’t disregard going the long route. It’s only wire, and cheaper than your time. If you drop down into the ER and run across the bulkhead that separates the ER from the mid berth you can then go through the silicone glob. From that point it’s a straight shot through the mirror cabinet (behind the upholstered panels) in the mid berth directly into the electrical panel.

H

 

[Captn TJ]

View attachment 77995 View attachment 77994 View attachment 77993 View attachment 77992 View attachment 77992
These are not pics of the process. I did not take any while I was doing the ball replacement. I have three photos of my lower door track and one of an aftermarket track. I am sure this track has been replaced with the replacement track from Boat Outfitters because it looks identical. I just got the boat a few months ago, so I don’t have a long term maintenance history.
I removed the three through bolts and two screws and the upper section of the lower door track freely moved. After wedging the door up a smidgen, I took the end plugs out. I could then wrangle the two balls out.
If your door track is not like this one you likely have the original track.

Is that a strainer on top of the drain in the step down? i just have an open drain.

 

[DWABoat]

Is that a strainer on top of the drain in the step down? i just have an open drain.

Good eye. Not a strainer. That’s just a little plastic cap I keep over the hole to keep crap from falling in the drain. I take it off when I take the boat out. Putting a small screen over it would also work though.

 

[Captn TJ]

Can anyone tell me what this is? I don't see it in the Sea Ray manual and quite frankly never noticed it before. It is adjacent to the 12v outlet and above the helm 'step' on the right side.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Can anyone tell me what this is? I don't see it in the Sea Ray manual and quite frankly never noticed it before. It is adjacent to the 12v outlet and above the helm 'step' on the right side.
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It kinda looks like an alarm horn? But it's not the one that is typically used with Merc engines... plus that buzzer is always behind the dash. Could it be an alarm horn that works in conjunction with a particular GPS? Could a previous owner have replaced the original alarm horn with that one to make it louder/easier to hear? Open the access door and poke around. The original horn just has small gauge red & black wires and is usually zip tied to the steering rack.

Other than that guess, I do not know!

 

[Henry Boyd]

Can anyone tell me what this is? I don't see it in the Sea Ray manual and quite frankly never noticed it before. It is adjacent to the 12v outlet and above the helm 'step' on the right side.

View attachment 78040

it is the ambient air temperature sensor for your system view display. It shows the temperature in the cockpit. It’s an informational display sensor so it has no effect on engine operation.

 

[Td213]

Hi All! I'm a new owner of a 2005 280DA. This thread (and entire website) has been incredibly useful thus far. You guys are all awesome.

The boat is currently in heated storage, so i'm taking the opportunity to do a few upgrades. One of those being a new stereo install. It's almost complete, but the last step is running a new cable to the helm for a new remote. Conveniently, there has been recent conversation around running cables from the ER to helm. I've been able to get into the ER from the Port side behind the mirrored closets where the amp is. I'm just stuck on getting from the ER to helm on the Starboard side.

Personally, from my experience, I've never had an issue going through the globs of silicone while following the steerinng cable. You might even find that there are spots where there's already a hole - never filled all the way or possible didn't seal completely. You can certainly go about it any way you want that feels right to you - but following the steering cable will work just fine.

This may sound dumb, but what's the best way to follow the steering cable?

 

[Captn TJ]

it is the ambient air temperature sensor for your system view display. It shows the temperature in the cockpit. It’s an informational display sensor so it has no effect on engine operation.

Winner! Thanks I thought it might be a sensor but couldn't figure out why there would be a sensor in the cockpit - ambient air temp sensor makes sense!

 

[Captn TJ]

Hi All! I'm a new owner of a 2005 280DA. This thread (and entire website) has been incredibly useful thus far. You guys are all awesome.

The boat is currently in heated storage, so i'm taking the opportunity to do a few upgrades. One of those being a new stereo install. It's almost complete, but the last step is running a new cable to the helm for a new remote. Conveniently, there has been recent conversation around running cables from the ER to helm. I've been able to get into the ER from the Port side behind the mirrored closets where the amp is. I'm just stuck on getting from the ER to helm on the Starboard side.



This may sound dumb, but what's the best way to follow the steering cable?

Congrats on your new boat. Check out my post #6723 and the follow-up posts on my running a new transducer cable to the helm. While initially daunting, it actually pretty easy. PM me if you have additional questions. FYI I'm located in the western basin of Lake Erie - boat is in heated storage as well.

 

[Td213]

Thanks so much for your advice! I was able to get that panel off easily like you suggested and route a wire right up to the helm. You rock! Merry Christmas

 

[DWABoat]

Thanks so much for your advice! I was able to get that panel off easily like you suggested and route a wire right up to the helm. You rock! Merry Christmas

Did you have visible screw heads in the mid-cabin?
I only have smooth vinyl on the walls.

 

[Captn TJ]

Thanks so much for your advice! I was able to get that panel off easily like you suggested and route a wire right up to the helm. You rock! Merry Christmas

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

 

[Lazy Daze]

Did you have visible screw heads in the mid-cabin?
I only have smooth vinyl on the walls.

The vinyl is not stapled all the way around to the backer board. There are "gaps" where the screws are. Feel for the screw heads and gently pull the vinyl out to expose the head.

 

[DWABoat]

The vinyl is not stapled all the way around to the backer board. There are "gaps" where the screws are. Feel for the screw heads and gently pull the vinyl out to expose the head.

Will do. Thanks.

 

[kozzy]

Hello all, just purchased a 2005 dancer 280 with T 4.3 L mercs, Alpha 1 Gen 2 drives. Old owner was hitting the REV limiter on both engines, around 4900 RPM alarm was going off. Happens in the sea trial too. All agree its the props. my questions is what pitch should I have on there to get it in the 4400-4800 range it should be? Currently has Vengance 14.5 17P props on there, which looks like the originals from th sea ray parts manual. I had the boat surveyed and a mechanic check it out. compression tests, oil, etc, engines are great, so I dont think its an engine issue. Both of them agree it is prob the props, and I should move to 19P or 21P... But again, looks like these were the originals...any input? Im new to these drives, my 300 dancer had twin B3 on it....thanks

 

[Henry Boyd]

If the engines easily over rev than you do not have either the OEM sterndrive gear ratios or proper pitch propellers. To accurately find out you need to find the OEM spec.

Sea Ray has (used to have?) a prop chart on its website that showed the gear ratio and prop pitch for each model of boat and power package by year built. I say used to because there have been comments that some archive materials are no longer be available. I haven’t looked in a couple years so I don’t personally know if it is available on line. In any event that’s the first place to start. If the chart is not available on line you should contact Sea Ray customer service.