Official 280 Sundancer Thread

View attachment 59107

2002 280DA Twin 5.0EFIs, Original owner

First post; please be kind! Lost the OEM anchor, I believe it was a 14lb plough. Thinking about replacing it with a fast set 22lb and am curious if it will fit in the existing OEM anchor chute. The 22lb is 3-4" longer than the 14lb.

The boat is an hour away from the Delta, otherwise I would go out an measure before I purchased the anchor. Has anyone made this modification?

Thanks in advance,

Dan


Sooo the bigger question is how do you lose an anchor??
 
Long time reader, first time poster.
Wanted to show my tv update that I put in this weekend.
Hitachi 22” tv on original mount.
Pain to install but looks great.
 

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For you guys that replaced the cabin sole with wood/vinyl/etc, can you comment specifically on how much sanding/prep was required to get the under-carpet area level enough for the new flooring? I am looking at putting down PlasTeak EZboat sole flooring and am curious how big of a project I'm getting into.

Thanks,
John
 
Took me about 5 days but only an hour or two each day. In the scheme of things not a difficult thing to do - somewhat reminds me of drywall mudding: apply thin coats, let dry, then come back with another coat. I used Bondo in the applications. I did have a piece of oak that I used as a straight edge. Once dry the Bondo was rock hard. The vinyl planks I used are designed to lay loose, however I used a latex adhesive. The install looks great, I've got a couple of pictures in some previous posts here. Feel free to PM me if you want additional info or pictures.
 
Took me about 5 days but only an hour or two each day. In the scheme of things not a difficult thing to do - somewhat reminds me of drywall mudding: apply thin coats, let dry, then come back with another coat. I used Bondo in the applications. I did have a piece of oak that I used as a straight edge. Once dry the Bondo was rock hard. The vinyl planks I used are designed to lay loose, however I used a latex adhesive. The install looks great, I've got a couple of pictures in some previous posts here. Feel free to PM me if you want additional info or pictures.

Thanks TJ. So was the issue the "roughness" of the fiberglass subfloor, or that it was wavy/uneven? I realize the "humps" port and stbd at the front of the floor need to be dealt with, so I was likely going to leave those carpet and route the flooring to "go around" them. What bondo product and adhesives did you use for this project? Was the carpet a bear to get out? Your install looks fantastic by the way.
 
Pulling up the carpet was pretty easy - hardly glued down. Using pliers I pulled up about an inch or two of the side carpeting as well - that way I could tuck the flooring under the side carpeting. I glued it back so now it's flush with the new floor and don't need a trim piece. The two humps - port and starboard were not a problem at all. I slightly heated up the flooring and it laid perfectly over the humps. Note pattern the floor especially over the hump as it will take slightly more material because of the shape. You can't even see the humps now

When you pull up the carpeting you'll find the floor rough and slightly uneven. Depending on where you place the straight edge it could be 1/16" to an extreme (by the head door) of about 1/2". There is actually a small valley by the head door - when I saw that I understood why the carpet was stained more there than anywhere else.

Before I used the filler I took the straight edge and marked out where I wanted the filler and approximately how much. That way once applied I didn't have to worry about sanding it down. They say prep work is 80% of a project. This is true in this case. Knowing how much to apply and where the Bondo is critical otherwise you'll be sanding down the Bondo to make it even.

I used Bondo Auto Body Filler (the cheapest place to get it is Walmart - half the price of auto stores). Mixed up small batches at a time - make sure the boat is well ventilated ( I used a box fan). I think I went through 2 gals. of Bondo. Because the surface is so rough you won't have to worry about prepping it before applying Bondo.

FYI this is the first time I've used Bondo - I did check out how to mix it on Youtube. In retrospect a pretty easy project and relatively inexpensive. Under $20 for the Bondo and the flooring was $55.

PM me if you have any other questions.
 
Toilet seat repair, broken hinges.
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I saved myself $60 for a replacement toilet seat on my Vacuflush. Went to Lowes, bought a $13 seat, robbed the hinges and reinstalled the original seat. They only had it in white, not bone but for the price it works for me.
 
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I have a 2003 280 Sundancer. I get two beeps every minute. Any idea what that might be?

Gear lube is full to the line.

Single 496 MAG.
 
I have a 2003 280 Sundancer. I get two beeps every minute. Any idea what that might be?

Gear lube is full to the line.

Single 496 MAG.
2 beeps every minute is a sensor issue. That's about as much as can be told based on the info given.
 
The place that services my boat said it would be about $600 (service call, labor, parts, shop supplies, and tax to troubleshoot and to replace IAC valve).

So, how do I figure out what parts I need and some instruction on how to service the IAC valve? Guessing it isn't that hard to do, and if the beep goes away I luck out and likely save a ton of $?

If I had the Vesselview mobile kit for iOS (iPhone) which I think is P/N 8M0115080 would that tell me what is causing it to beep twice every minute?
 
The place that services my boat said it would be about $600 (service call, labor, parts, shop supplies, and tax to troubleshoot and to replace IAC valve).

So, how do I figure out what parts I need and some instruction on how to service the IAC valve? Guessing it isn't that hard to do, and if the beep goes away I luck out and likely save a ton of $?

If I had the Vesselview mobile kit for iOS (iPhone) which I think is P/N 8M0115080 would that tell me what is causing it to beep twice every minute?

How cow save yourself about $500. and do it yourself. There are plenty of youtube videos on the replacement of an IAC on mercruisers. Takes about 10 min and requires no mechanical knowledge.
 
Sounds good to me. I looked for some YouTube videos, but found none showing the location of it? How do I find the location of the IAC Valve?

Parts locally (which would be Merc. OEM) would end up being about $157 total. Are the $60 ones on Amazon and Ebay any good?
 
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I purchased the IAC and muffler off Amazon for around $85. I'm going to try and clean it first to see if that helps, if not I'll put the new unit on....
 
Sounds good to me. I looked for some YouTube videos, but found none showing the location of it? How do I find the location of the IAC Valve?

Parts locally (which would be Merc. OEM) would end up being about $157 total. Are the $60 ones on Amazon and Ebay any good?
I paid less than that from Wholesale Marine (actual mercruiser part vs. generic). I generally find Amazon has higher prices. Here a sampling of youtube videos on the install.
 
I cleaned the one on the boat, wasn’t dirty at all and it’s defiantly original. Still beeps twice every minute.

Any idea if replacing with a new one if the code will reset itself right away? Do I need to disconnect the batteries or anything?

Thx!

I paid less than that from Wholesale Marine (actual mercruiser part vs. generic). I generally find Amazon has higher prices. Here a sampling of youtube videos on the install.
 
If you replace the IAC and that was the problem, the beeping should stop.
 

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