Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Makes no sense to me either!

 

ok, on to other electrical questions. Has anyone found the wires that would supply a 12V+ source when pressing the ACC2 button on the Starboard side switchpad module? I'm hoping someone knows what color they might be, if they are labeled ACC2, and where terminated so I can find the ends?

 

Related: what do the ACC switches power?

 

Right now, the ACC1 switch turns on my depth finder. ACC2 powers nothing currently, but I would like it to!

 

In the back of your owner’s manual is a wiring diagram that will answer your questions.

Bennett

 

Hi - I have a question hoping that someone can give me some pointers to.
I am still fairly new to boating and I am having some problems with my lofrans marlin windlass which seemed to start when I gave the foot pedals a real good wash.
this is on a 2005 280 da
so here's a troubleshoot list
1 - I think it is seized as I have tried the handle in the top and it tries to rotate the whole set up
2 - The motor isn't going up or down (it did go down for about 2 secs last week but stopped) but there is a clicking noise from the black box in the chain locker (I do have an aftermarket spare box )
3 - does this windlass contain oil that needs changing and if so where about's is it.

Many thanks for any assistance/help anyone can give

Jon

 

I didn't know there was an "accessory" position, I've never noticed this, I don't feel a position that would designate an "accessory" position... I'll check next time out to the boat... Would I feel a click halfway to the "on" position? Thanks!

 

I thought the keys were just on and off.

 

Anyone have any experience in mounting fishing rod holders to the grab rail on the trunk for trolling? Went out salmon fishing with some friends last night and had a ball, and would love to take my 280 out to do the same. I'm concerned that our grabrail is part of the trunk, and while it seems exceptionally sturdy I'm not willing to risk damaging it. Also don't want to drill any holes in the gunnels for flush mount rod holders, so my options are clamping holders on either that aft grabrail or on the poles for the sunshade. If you've done similar would love to see a picture of your setup.

Thanks,
John

 

my boat came with a holder on the pole.

 

I am looking for a 2008 or 2009 Sundancer 280 if anyone knows of one available for sale.

 

I’ve had a few problems with the windlass. The box that you hear the clicking is the relay
It serves two functions, it allows a control switch (such as your dash or foot switch) to turn on a high amp circuit that controls the windlass motor
It also switches polarity going to the motor which controls the up and down of the windlass

I had issues with the brushes in the motor being seized which was repaired for $100

I also had issues with the relay which I replaced for $145

Not too difficult to repair but tight quarters to work in
Two people make the job easier

The people at Imtra, who are the Lofrans dealer in the US, are very helpful

Note: Check your connections first. Your problem could be a little corrosion

 

For those who have replaced the refrigerator. I purchased the Norcold 751 (which replaces the original equipment model on the boat). Is it a direct fit? Or am I looking at some modification work? Comparing the two it looks like the old one is shorter in the back than the new. My concern is whether the shape of the hull is going to hit the bottom of the new refrigerator. Thanks

 

Show me your chartplotter. Below is a picture of the C70 that came with the boat. From a visibility perspective it's useless unless you're going slow and standing over it. I'm thinking of upgrading it and maybe moving it so it sits over where the compass sits. Would be interested in other locations - pictures please

 

Mine...upgraded from a much smaller one last season.

 

as a newbie , I have a question regarding stern in parking for those more experienced than I am. In the picture , I have a boat on my port side, and the dock on my starboard side. while reversing straight in with the steering wheel centered, I see the bow begin to drift towards the boat on my port side, what are some of the ways to correct the drift? Port forward will correct it, but push the stern towards the boat on the port side. Starboard reverse, does not correct the bow quickly enough , and also causes the stern to move towards the port side and away from the dock that the first mate is trying to reach to tie the line on. Or if you are single handed?

 

There's far more experienced than me but here's a couple things I did. More times than not I'd back in on a angle to the dock. I'd let the momentum take the boat toward the dock as if the stern was going to make contact first, then at that time I'd go port to forward. This would start the bow swinging toward the dock before the momentum was used up. The most helpful thing I learned was just to get a line from the stern of the boat onto the dock somehow. Then I could power against the line to get the boat along side the dock. It didn't matter to me if the boat was in perfect position relative to the dock, I'd take anything I could get and move the boat by hand when I was done. I do the same things with my 420DA as I did with the 280, even single handing.

 

I'd also add - make minor adjustments. What gets a lot of boaters into trouble is too much power.

 

is the wheel straight throughout ? or do you turn to port before port forward?

 

I installed flush mount rod holders, one in each of the gunwales just behind the arch, and two in the transom next to the stern locker. I did this back in 2011 and don't regret them a bit, they are great! Though I haven't fished in a couple of years, we would often troll for bluefish and rockfish in Chesapeake Bay.

And I often use one of the stern holders to fly the flag from a flag pole that has an insert for the rod holder.

Tom