Official 280 Sundancer Thread

TheGoodLife said:
I have a 2003 with the 4.3 engines. I was just coming on here to ask the exact same question. After 20 minutes of the boat running I get the 2 beeps/min alarm. Nothing shows on the mechanics computer. He thought it might be the block pressure sensor and it was not. I can not figure this one out. Gauges reading perfect, gear oil is good.
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Figure anything out yet? I'm in the process of rebuilding my seawater pumps to get my beeping to stop.
 
Can't comment on the 240, but I am a 2005 280DA owner, 5'10" 175 lbs and the v-berth works well for me and the missus. We did get a memory foam topper (king size, 3", and cut to fit) and it is pretty comfortable.


Stroh said:
I currently have a 2006 240 Sundancer and would like to spend more time on it but sleeping is literally a pain as the v-berth is not quite long enough for my average-sized 5' 10" frame.

I am thinking of upgrading to a 280 and was wondering if anyone can tell me how much longer (if any) the 280 v-berth is versus the 240 v-berth?

Seems the older models had a dinette on port side and newer models don't. How does that impact the v-berth size (length)?

Appreciate any other insight into the sleeping accommodations between the 240 and the 280. Thanks
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mjoplin, Thank you for the response. We are similar height but I have a few more pounds :grin:. I would bet the 280 would be much more accommodating.

I know there are a few in here that had 240s before they got their 280 and was hoping they could comment on the difference. Guess I'll just have to go look at one to be sure. Thanks again.
 
Hi all!
Just finished reading all 550+ pages of this thread over the last few months and has been filled with great information. Just bought a 2005 280 w/ 5.0s with ~190 hours on it from Peter's Marine in PA. They were a great dealership to work with and made the process go very smoothly even though I'm out in southeastern CT! So far I love the boat and wishing the weather will clear up a bit to be able to cruise a little more without full curtains up!
 
Over the course of the thread I haven't seen anyone discuss testing the mercathode system. I have bought the special test probe listed in the shop manual, have it hooked up to a multimeter, understand that the probe should be within 6" of the end of the propeller during the test, and I believe the voltage potential should be about 1.1 mV during the test, but I have a couple questions.

1. Do you just hang the test probe behind the swim platform during the test or go through the "blow hole" in the platform?
2. Where and how do you hook up the ground wire to the boat? Somewhere in the engine compartment with the hatch open?

Thanks in advance!
 
TheGoodLife said:
I have a 2003 with the 4.3 engines. I was just coming on here to ask the exact same question. After 20 minutes of the boat running I get the 2 beeps/min alarm. Nothing shows on the mechanics computer. He thought it might be the block pressure sensor and it was not. I can not figure this one out. Gauges reading perfect, gear oil is good.
Click to expand...

Change the IAC sensor. Mine was the same way. Rock Auto Part AC423. 35.00


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There is over a dozen things than can give you the 2 beeps per, most common being the sea pump pressure switch. Changing out the IAC without IAC symptoms, obviously a waste of time/money
 
Anyone out there test their Mercathode? I'm getting a high rate of depletion of my anodes after only two months after dropping it in the water. I have an 2005 with BIIIs, brackish water using aluminum anodes so that's not the issue. I mean I'm glad they're depleting over the outdrive but curious what others are seeing. I will be replacing them in a week or so at this rate. Thanks.
 
IAC - It's the idle air control valve. It mounts on top of the engine and allows the engine to idle below about 900-1000rpm. When mine went out the engine wouldn't run below that rpm and I had to give it throttle as soon as it started and keep it above that rpm manually. I also had an alarm on the gauges and an audible alarm. To change it was as simple as removing two Allan head bolts and replacing a gasket.




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Is there a service maintenance schedule for MAG 496 engine? I have a MAG496 SeaCore and was wondering if I need to replace the fuel filter when I perform the engine oil change. Thank you.
 
I change my fuel/water separator filters annually and carry spares on board. Had an issue with water in the fuel from one of the local marinas, got caught in the evening with a motor that wouldn't start. Having a spare saved my bacon.
 
Good question, I have a 2003 with the 496 MAG (not the H.O.) and I have around 600hrs? on it and at around 300ish hours I changed spark plugs (I think the OEM plugs are Iridium?). That's all I've done other than change the oil and water/fuel separator at scheduled intervals. I have run some Mercury Quickleen Engine and Fuel System Cleaner through it a couple of times....

Engine runs and idles great, starts easy....would like to keep it that way.

searaypuget said:
Is there a service maintenance schedule for MAG 496 engine? I have a MAG496 SeaCore and was wondering if I need to replace the fuel filter when I perform the engine oil change. Thank you.
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Thanks. The engine has 230 hours and the spark plugs/oil change was done last year @ 210 hours or so.
How difficult is it to replace water/fuel separator?


trdehmer said:
Good question, I have a 2003 with the 496 MAG (not the H.O.) and I have around 600hrs? on it and at around 300ish hours I changed spark plugs (I think the OEM plugs are Iridium?). That's all I've done other than change the oil and water/fuel separator at scheduled intervals. I have run some Mercury Quickleen Engine and Fuel System Cleaner through it a couple of times....

Engine runs and idles great, starts easy....would like to keep it that way.
Click to expand...
 
Its about a 5 minute job to change the water/fuel separator on my single engine 280DA. Just get a filter wrench "cap" style you would use with a ratchet, or the claw style. Only issue with both is if its on there real good, you could end up twisting or tearing into the filter before getting it off. Lube the gasket with motor oil prior to putting the new one on, and don't go too tight!
 
trdehmer said:
Its about a 5 minute job to change the water/fuel separator on my single engine 280DA. Just get a filter wrench "cap" style you would use with a ratchet, or the claw style. Only issue with both is if its on there real good, you could end up twisting or tearing into the filter before getting it off. Lube the gasket with motor oil prior to putting the new one on, and don't go too tight!
Click to expand...

Thank you. The manual does not specify the part number. Do you happen to know it? Thanks in advance.


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