Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Go to a boating supply site and take a look. There are many types that might be adaptable to your situations. Here's a few
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/taylor-made--low-freeboard-bass-boat-fenders--P005_156_001_011

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/taylor-made--fender-cushions--P005_156_002_011

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/taylor-made--transom-fender--2630424

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--vinyl-covered-flat-fenders--P005_156_001_514

 

Woody,

Thx, give me a few ideas, but the reviews aren't very good and just don't seem like they will fit easily. But will keep looking.

 

Went out for the weekend and thought I had done all my pre-checks. Got out and dropped anchor. Went to scan the coastline with the spotlight but it would only move left and right, not up and down. Would this be on a different fuse? Thoughts?

 

Not likely, probably a switch or motor. A good electrician could troubleshoot. Been shopping for a good light.

 

Has anyone had a problem with the port lounge chair track? Mine is binding and may need a replacement. Any suggestions?

 

Does anyone know where the best place/company to get a permit to haul a boat from north of the Pittsburgh, PA area to Geneva on the lake Ohio? I have a 2005 sea Ray sundancer with 9'5" beam. I called Mercury hauling and they quoted me $160 one way permit which to me sounds outrageous. They also said that state of Ohio requires 500,000 liability insurance. I have a diesel f250 with upgraded hitch and truck is rated to 14k. Weighed my boat and I am fine with weight and 2013 have triaxle trailer.

Any suggestions would be great.

 

Not sure what you're asking... you have the truck and can do it yourself? Or is that just the permit to haul an oversized load on the highway? Can you explain?

 

Looking for a company to order the permit. I have the truck to haul it. Any recommendations? Mercury wants $160 each way and sounds excessive.

 

Apply yourself.... it's $35 for a PA permit and $100 for OH permit.

http://www.penndot.gov/Doing-Business/Permits/HaulingInformation/Pages/default.aspx

https://www.dot.state.oh.us/Divisions/Operations/Maintenance/Permits/Pages/BOATHAULINGPERMIT.aspx

 

Thanks. I printed some pages off of the Ohio site. Hoping to get blanket permit for the year. I am close enough to the Ohio border and may just get the Ohio portion. Insurance though is expensive as they require half a million in liability insurance.

 

Took this video while it was raining hard tonight. Where is this dripping in from? Arch or outside cleats? Anyone have experience with this...not thrilled its dripping all over the batteries


[video]https://youtu.be/UkVJtECgGPM[/video]

 

Most likely the joint where arch mounts. Mine leaked last year but a siliconed everything on the inside and out and it's bone dry now.


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I agree it looks like its coming from the arch area. In your signature pic there looks to be something attached to the gunwale just behind the arch on each side. I didn't have these on my 280DA so I can't tell what they are. Could the leak be coming from there?

 

I have the flush mount Raymarine 215 with that I removed from my 280 to upgrade to a Horizon Quantum. The radio, mic, and most importantly mic cord are in great shape. The Raymarine lettering on the suncover is faded. Includes wiring and manual $100+shipping. You will need to program a new MMSI number as condition of sale. Email cp_71@yahoo.com


sold

 

Hi Tom,

Where is that sending unit on the tank? We looked everywhere and couldn't locate how to access to it. If you have picture or direction on how to get to it, I really appreciate it.

 

Rahula,
Before you order with Royce, ask them if they have gotten their sender float issue resolved. I retrofitted my senders with Royce Flexi-sensors and they malfunctioned. Apparently the float material Royce was using was effected by ethanol and was absorbing fuel, thereby sinking it to the bottom of the sender, giving you a false low or empty reading. Royce changed materials and sent me two new floats (free), which also absorbed/sank. They changed a 3rd time, and sent me two new floats, again free. One of my senders now has the "latest" material on it, and has been doing okay for a season. The other sender still has the original float material on it, but it finally sank this spring, and I've not yet gotten to change it out. So, long story short... it seems like they have resolved the issue potentially, but time will tell.

I do have to say, that they have been very helpful and accommodating in all my interactions. Also, the change out (both of the sender and float material) was very easy. Just be sure you have clearance above your tank to get the sensor in. My tanks are in the bilge and nearly touch the underside of the cockpit floor. You may have to tilt it sideways, move the float up/down etc to get it into the tank. Additionally, we had to temporarily cut away some foam insulation to allow my port sensor to go high enough to get into the tank. This is the one that needs replacing now. Lastly... Make sure you properly line up the gasket they provide with the mark on the sender. Also mark the screw pattern on the top of your tank. On mine, the screw pattern on the tank was specific, and the holes in the gasket/sender are also specific in alignment. Though they look equally spaced, they are not... and you may fight (unnecessarily) trying to get your screws re-seated and threaded properly through the gasket into the tank like I did without knowing. DO NOT accidently strip the aluminum threads in your tank. If it's not going, don't force it. Thankfully I gave up and called Royce for help before I got too frustrated and did any damage.

-James

 

On my 280DA the access was in the aft berth under the pads in about the middle.

 

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Yes, climb in the aft berth and remove the cushions. You'll see a white round cover with 4 Phillips head screws. Remove those, lift the cover and you'll see the fuel sending unit and wires.

Btw, my Royce sending unit failed after a single year. So I then purchased the WEMA one and it works great.

I also placed a weatherproof 2 - wire connector so that in the future I can quickly disconnect it...if I ever have to replace it again!

Tom


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