Official 270 SLX Thread (There HAS to be enough of us!)

Regarding the canvas leakage...you'll be happy to know the 300 SLX does the same thing.

It's not a complete remedy, but I have done two things:

1) Made sure the air dam door is shut.
2) On top of said door, I wedge a towel to close that "droop gap" between the snaps on the windshield "door."

Like I said, it's not perfect, but it reduces the water.

One day, I plan to head out in a rainstorm so I can sit under the canvas and observe the entry points. From there, I hope to develop a classier solution to keeping the water out. Only to people on here does that sound like a good idea.
 
Regarding the canvas leakage...you'll be happy to know the 300 SLX does the same thing.

It's not a complete remedy, but I have done two things:

1) Made sure the air dam door is shut.
2) On top of said door, I wedge a towel to close that "droop gap" between the snaps on the windshield "door."

Like I said, it's not perfect, but it reduces the water.

One day, I plan to head out in a rainstorm so I can sit under the canvas and observe the entry points. From there, I hope to develop a classier solution to keeping the water out. Only to people on here does that sound like a good idea.

I'm really grateful for your post! As "obvious" a solution as yours might appear, why didn't I think of it myself?? (Don't answer that!)

I'll do the same thing from now on. Am I going to take it to the next level and head out in a rainstorm? Uh....nah....I'll wait for you to report back on that one! :grin:


OneDown: So you have the latest generation of the A68 with built-in sonar? My recently acquired c95 doesn't have that..... but I wanted a bigger display for my old eyes. Still, with the difficulty of "placing" it, and the lack of the sonar built-in features, maybe I don't want to keep it.....a difficult decision.....

If I could flush-mount it at the helm I know I would keep it, but with no readily available, obvious space, I really don't know what to do. It was a great deal, but not "great" if I can't enjoy it.

A return may be in my near future.
 
Richard-

Yes I bought version with everything built in. I saw older versions you need a separate chirp/downvision box but not this one. I bought product #e70207. The reason why I bought that product number was bc it does not come with cartography. I then bought navionics platinum+ which has 3D maps and satellite overlay. All told it was over $100 less than buying from west marine with only navionics platinum instead of platinum+.
 
Does anybody have any recommendations on a place to buy manufacturers replacement parts? My local sea Ray dealer can't be counted on and I need to order things like the transom sprayer and hose, inline water filter for pump, and other odds and ends. I have all the part numbers I need but when I search online no results. Thoughts?
 
Does anybody have any recommendations on a place to buy manufacturers replacement parts? My local sea Ray dealer can't be counted on and I need to order things like the transom sprayer and hose, inline water filter for pump, and other odds and ends. I have all the part numbers I need but when I search online no results. Thoughts?


Regarding the transom sprayer......just went through that myself, and found out you can save a TON of money by buying a normal household kitchen sprayer. Same threads. Probably the same hose too. Just make sure it has an on/off switch, or the water will run all the time. But the Sea Ray part was well over $100, and Home Depot can hook you up for a fraction of that price. I have looked on eBay for other parts, with some sporadic success. But that transom sprayer is just WAY overpriced from Sea Ray. Go with a Home Depot special, same job for a lot less $$$.
 
Sorry for the incredibly slow response...
I have the Navman.
No problems with alarms triggering Guardian mode. Sorry, but I cannot answer anymore of your questions. Eventually I will start learning more about all the fancy gadgets.

So I created another problem that needs to be solved. This weekend I was preparing the boat for Memorial Day / Summer and decided to shock the fresh water system. First, I drained the pink stuff. Second, I filled the tank and added 1 cup chlorine. Let it sit for 4 hrs. After 4 hrs, start running water to clear the tank. After a couple minutes lost all water pressure at faucets. Looked under the ski locker and sure enough water was spraying into the bilge from the pump - Yikes. Found and tightened the fitting where water was leaking. Started the water pump again but the pump only stays on for a couple a seconds and then shuts off.
So I believe I have a clog in a hose. This makes sense to me because the water/chlorine solution probably did its job. That said, can someone confirm my suspicion? Also can someone offer a fix. My guess is that compressed air could be run through the system to blow out the gunk.
 
Not sure about yours, but my fresh water pump comes on and off on demand. When it senses a drop in pressure, it cuts on. When no pressure is dropped it cuts off.
 
Thanks for the response. My 2007 has a switch on the dash to turn on the fresh water pump.

Yes, that is main power, but then it cycles on and off based on the pressure switch as mentioned.
 
Good information however I am still not tracking with you. Are you saying the pump could be sensing a drop in pressure and therefore shutting off? If yes, what could cause this problem? I do have more information that I failed to share in the original post. When I disconnect the hose from the fitting at the pump, the pump does not auto-shut off - it keeps pumping.
 
Correct. The pump Runs when pressure drops (such as an open line, a leak, or a faucet turned on) and shuts off when pressure builds to a sufficient level to trip the pressure switch.
 
I think what paulswagelock is saying is that, once the switch is turned on, the pump will run long enough to build pressure in the line. Once the pressure has been built up, the pump will automatically shut off. If you then turn on the faucet, the pump detects a drop in pressure and automatically turns on.

BleednBlue, are you saying that the pump is not turning back on once you open the faucet again?? If so, what if you take the faucet/sprayer off and just have the hose loose?
 
I think what paulswagelock is saying is that, once the switch is turned on, the pump will run long enough to build pressure in the line. Once the pressure has been built up, the pump will automatically shut off. If you then turn on the faucet, the pump detects a drop in pressure and automatically turns on.

BleednBlue, are you saying that the pump is not turning back on once you open the faucet again?? If so, what if you take the faucet/sprayer off and just have the hose loose?

The pump turns off a couple seconds after I turn on the dash switch (faucets opened or closed). However, if I loosen the hose fitting at the pump, the pump will remain on (result: water in the bilge). With the information supplied by you and paulswagelock, I believe my initial thought is correct - clogged hose(s).
 
FINALLY! No More Overheating! And here's why......

It's back at my dock!


IMG_4599_1.jpg


A couple weeks ago, the dealer I bought my bought from had to come get it, because every time I took the boat out, after a few minutes at WOT, the alarms would sound and Guardian Mode would kick in, with my port manifold running 80 degrees higher than starboard.

Of course I was convinced I needed manifolds and risers. Isn't that what YOU'D think?

Turns out that didn't do the trick. They installed a new set and a sea-trial delivered the same results.

Next it was a sea pump and pulley.

Still overheating.

Then a new heat sensor, which of course didn't fix it.......my own IR gun negated THAT possibility, so I have no idea why they did that.

Finally, every hose on the engine was removed, as well as the heat exchanger and oil cooler, as well as the outdrive. Everything was backflushed and chemical washed, and reinstalled.

AT LAST! The ensuing sea-trial was successful, the boat running at WOT with temps no higher than 164, at speeds of 44MPH, two people, and an almost full gas tank. (Before the problems started, at WOT I hit speeds of 48MPH in a slight chop with between 1/4 and 1/2 tank of gas and one person.)

It looks like it was no one "big" problem, but rather the sum of a lot of smaller issues that were adding up to poor performance. No one hose was collapsed, no one part defective, no one system clogged completely. But at 112 hours the engine had "issues" that required a lot of flushing, cleaning, and part replacement.

I have to wonder, as I read the many, many threads about the 496 MAG experiencing "high speed overheats" like mine, whether they are in the same spot I was in. And is it only salt water boats suffering this issue? If my boat had lived it's life in fresh water prior to my ownership would I not have had to deal with this? Would I have been better off buying a fresh water boat from the lakes area and getting it shipped out to me, even if it has significantly higher hours as the ones I had found were loaded with?

Of course, this is the boat I own now but I want my experience out there for anyone shopping for a boat and looking at salt versus fresh. There are more considerations that the salt water to consider as well........my boat, with 112 hours, is extremely clean cosmetically, unlike a couple examples I saw that were fresh water boats but showed every bit of their 500-600 hours throughout the interior and even the hull.

Anyway, there are my thoughts, and I am now $3600 poorer besides, although the service manager claims I was given fantastic discounts on labor and parts at cost. I do know their mechanic spent several entire DAYS working on my boat, as far as time goes.

So.......any opinions on all this guys?

PS: It sure is good to have my boat back and running great!!
 
Re: FINALLY! No More Overheating! And here's why......

It's back at my dock!


IMG_4599_1.jpg


A couple weeks ago, the dealer I bought my bought from had to come get it, because every time I took the boat out, after a few minutes at WOT, the alarms would sound and Guardian Mode would kick in, with my port manifold running 80 degrees higher than starboard.

Of course I was convinced I needed manifolds and risers. Isn't that what YOU'D think?

Turns out that didn't do the trick. They installed a new set and a sea-trial delivered the same results.

Next it was a sea pump and pulley.

Still overheating.

Then a new heat sensor, which of course didn't fix it.......my own IR gun negated THAT possibility, so I have no idea why they did that.

Finally, every hose on the engine was removed, as well as the heat exchanger and oil cooler, as well as the outdrive. Everything was backflushed and chemical washed, and reinstalled.

AT LAST! The ensuing sea-trial was successful, the boat running at WOT with temps no higher than 164, at speeds of 44MPH, two people, and an almost full gas tank. (Before the problems started, at WOT I hit speeds of 48MPH in a slight chop with between 1/4 and 1/2 tank of gas and one person.)

It looks like it was no one "big" problem, but rather the sum of a lot of smaller issues that were adding up to poor performance. No one hose was collapsed, no one part defective, no one system clogged completely. But at 112 hours the engine had "issues" that required a lot of flushing, cleaning, and part replacement.

I have to wonder, as I read the many, many threads about the 496 MAG experiencing "high speed overheats" like mine, whether they are in the same spot I was in. And is it only salt water boats suffering this issue? If my boat had lived it's life in fresh water prior to my ownership would I not have had to deal with this? Would I have been better off buying a fresh water boat from the lakes area and getting it shipped out to me, even if it has significantly higher hours as the ones I had found were loaded with?

Of course, this is the boat I own now but I want my experience out there for anyone shopping for a boat and looking at salt versus fresh. There are more considerations that the salt water to consider as well........my boat, with 112 hours, is extremely clean cosmetically, unlike a couple examples I saw that were fresh water boats but showed every bit of their 500-600 hours throughout the interior and even the hull.

Anyway, there are my thoughts, and I am now $3600 poorer besides, although the service manager claims I was given fantastic discounts on labor and parts at cost. I do know their mechanic spent several entire DAYS working on my boat, as far as time goes.

So.......any opinions on all this guys?

PS: It sure is good to have my boat back and running great!!

No opinion here, but wanted to thank you for posting the resolution. My 270 496 MAG hovers between 165 and 168 degrees at 3500 rpm -> fresh water only.
 
I have a 2006, 270 SLX Select. When I cycle to the depth guage, it flashes an inaccurate number? Does anyone have any experience with this? Also, Ive looked through all my owners manuals and cant find what kind of transducer this boat has, so that I might look up the manufacturers website for troubleshooting. Does anyone have an idea of what kind of transducers were used on these boats? Thanks in advance for any help!!
 
Where is the XM radio receiver located on a 270 SLX? It looks like mine isn't getting power.
 
Anyone know where I can get an original stainless anchor for my 2008 270 SLX? Or what the brand is?
 

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