Official 240 Sundancer Thread

went with flounder pounder to replace my dash and switch covers thanks to this thread. turned out great! all the holes were cut perfect, and the face plate was identical size. old/new

IMG_1007.jpeg
IMG_1017.jpeg
 
Looks great! Nice work. I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago with the black. I like the shiny trim rings around your gauges. I have faded black lol. Need to clean them up somehow!
 

Attachments

  • 68339047_2366236336991781_6686550290667143168_o.jpg
    68339047_2366236336991781_6686550290667143168_o.jpg
    171.4 KB · Views: 220
Anyone have this issue with their camper top? This is the port side at the seam between biminis. I assume it is from shrinkage. We have canvas pulled bit to starboard by accident because we put in so late and had to put the top up after dark. But, that closed up the gap on starboard.

Not too many bugs find their way in with just 2 inch gap. But, when we get caught out in rain, it pours in like a faucet. Thinking of having the wife sew in an extra flap to cover the gaps for now. Cost of new canvas when that is the only issue hardly seems worth it.

But, does a new canvas have this gap?
20190824_090815_HDR.jpg
 
Looks great! Nice work. I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago with the black. I like the shiny trim rings around your gauges. I have faded black lol. Need to clean them up somehow!

thanks! post a picture of your black one, I debated hard on getting the black or wood grain. couldn't be more happy with how it came out. I considered swapping all my gauges for white ones with chrome lips while I was at it, had to disconnect every one of them to remove through the front.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2019-08-28 at 5.06.29 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-08-28 at 5.06.29 PM.png
    835.3 KB · Views: 222
did you switch your switch covers? I believe it cost $15 or something, and was very easy, also made a world of difference.
 
Anyone have this issue with their camper top? This is the port side at the seam between biminis. I assume it is from shrinkage. We have canvas pulled bit to starboard by accident because we put in so late and had to put the top up after dark. But, that closed up the gap on starboard.

Not too many bugs find their way in with just 2 inch gap. But, when we get caught out in rain, it pours in like a faucet. Thinking of having the wife sew in an extra flap to cover the gaps for now. Cost of new canvas when that is the only issue hardly seems worth it.

But, does a new canvas have this gap?View attachment 74211

I just had my cover re-done and I have some small gaps like this. mine fortunately doesnt let any water in, but if you go to most canvas places they will sew on a small piece with velcro that will hold down. probably charge you $25, and it will look the way its supposed to with the matching sunbrella fabric. funny, I think my new cover is the same color as yours too, or close to it.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2019-08-28 at 5.11.50 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-08-28 at 5.11.50 PM.png
    877.2 KB · Views: 238
I just had my cover re-done and I have some small gaps like this. mine fortunately doesnt let any water in, but if you go to most canvas places they will sew on a small piece with velcro that will hold down. probably charge you $25, and it will look the way its supposed to with the matching sunbrella fabric. funny, I think my new cover is the same color as yours too, or close to it.

Thanks Chris. Looking at your top, it looks like there was room for shrink built in. Mine is tighter than a banjo string. It is hell just to get the zippers started. I think that explains it. The admiral ordered a swatch of material from sunbrella. I think that will be enough material to make the modifications. I didn't think about the velcro, yet. Good idea!
 
Thanks Chris. Looking at your top, it looks like there was room for shrink built in. Mine is tighter than a banjo string. It is hell just to get the zippers started. I think that explains it. The admiral ordered a swatch of material from sunbrella. I think that will be enough material to make the modifications. I didn't think about the velcro, yet. Good idea!

ive heard people spray wd40 on them and then they stretch, no idea though. another option, a lot of people that do tops will sew on an extension to the whole bottom for a couple hundred. beats 2-3000 for a new cover if the rest of the material is in good shape.

ill take a pic of mine when im out there in the next few days how they did the velcro, my guy put a decent amount of little flaps to cover overhangs and things.

it looks a little bit looser with the back off, its pretty taut when the whole top is up. the guy said he gave me a little extra fabric in case in the future we have to move the snaps.
 
Last edited:
Anyone install a windlass in a 2008 Sea Ray Sundancer 240?
 
Anyone install a windlass in a 2008 Sea Ray Sundancer 240?
This has been talked about several times. I would have to go back through this thread and other to find it. I researched everything I could find last year and the only truly successful install took fiberglass work, changing the navigation lights, bolting the anchor locker shut after reinforcing the door and of course a lot of wiring of relays and switches. I'm a journeyman electrician and grew up as a mechanic. But, I am not a fiberglass guy by any means. So, I talked to the dealer I bought the boat from. He said he could do it for about $6000. I decided I could pull that anchor a lot of times for that money.
 
$5400 taxes in. All parts and includes installation in Seattle.
 
$5400 taxes in. All parts and includes installation in Seattle.
Cheaper than what I was quoted. But, they just threw a number at me rather than drawing up a quote. It comes down to your particular use. I only set and pull anchor a couple times a day. It's also hard to justify $5400 for a windlass on a boat I have less than $30k in. I think putting that toward a generator would better suit my needs and might be able to recoup some of that cost in resale. Post pics if you decide to take the plunge, lol. I might talk myself into it, yet.
 
You bet. Say, anyone have any advise on carrying a spare prop for a 300hp, 5.7 l merc sterndrive? Doing a trip into the San Juan’s and think that a spare, cheap prop and floating prop wrench would be a good idea to carry.
 
Last edited:
Can you retrofit a genny for $5K?
 
Can you retrofit a genny for $5K?
I have seen a few threads in my year of studying these threads saying between $5500 and $6500. Most say you have to remove the vacuflush unit and use the port-a-pot style head. I honestly believe after spending hours in that engine room that it would fit without pulling the vacuflush. The boat might want to list starboard a bit afterward. But, the way these 240s roll already, would we notice? Set the trim for it and carry on.
 
Thanks Kwik. Where are you inserting the ensign mast? In the socket where the stern light goes?
 
Hi all! Does anyone know or have access to a 2000 era 240DA and could supply me the clearance of the stern seat when deployed? I am attempting to fit a low profile cooler that would fit under the seat. Any ideas?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,120
Messages
1,426,595
Members
61,037
Latest member
wojozobl
Back
Top