Official 240 Sundancer Thread

I'm looking for an anchor roller for my 240 as well. This seems like the perfect solution and easy to install (including moving the nav lights). What else did you have in mind as a solution if not this?
 
Shining said:
Looking at this anchor roller on this 240DA, does anyone know who makes it and would you use it on your boat. I'm not sure it's what I'm looking for, but it may do the job. Boat is coming home in 4 weeks :thumbsup: and I'm trying to come up with an anchor roller that will work.
-Mike
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...RK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=220086990372&rd=1,1

Mike......Just a suggestion but why not PM the owner and ask him what brand it is? You would be doing everyone a big service by getting that information and posting it here since the interest seems to be high on an anchor roller for the 240s.
 
Shinning and rizz3, that anchor roller is not available from sea ray any longer because it blocks the bow nav. light. And the coast guard and the nma will not certify it for use. Now there is a new and improved roller from sea ray that can be bought from sea ray under the same part #. I'll get it for you as soon as I get home from work. That roller is basically the same as the in the picture but it is turned down so that it will not block the light...... I bought one and installed it myself. The roller cost $230.00 from sea ray. need to thru bolt with good thick backing washers. A large draw back to this roller is you cannot store the anchor on the roller. The anchor will hit the bow. I installed it as far forward as possible for clearance. It will also be necessary to install some kind of cleat behind to roller to tie off the anchor line because to tie it off to the existing cleat the anchor rope will chafe aginst the side of the roller arm, good chance of cutting the anchor rode. I'll take pictures. Mike
 
Ok, I believe the sea ray roller part number is 1792418. Here are some pics I snaped for ya'll to look at. :thumbsup:
 

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Mike,
It looks like the nav light is going to be in the way of the anchor rode.
 
It will be. :smt017 My fix is I found a small bollard that I'll mount behind the light so that the rope will run over top of the light. Other wise I'd have to move the light. The mounting position of the roller will not allow leaving the anchor on the roller and the anchor "tounge" hits the light any way. Hey, don't get me started. I tried and tried to come up with another soultion and was denied for one reason or another why I couldn't do what "I" wanted. My hull warantee was finally threatened so I gave in to "their" solution and this is the best "they" came up with. Now I have to live with something that is marginal at best. But my hull warantee is still intact! :huh:
So when you pay $70.000.00 for a boat and don't do all your reasearch this is what you end up with, yes an anchor roller is important to me, I just "assumed" I could install an after market rig and be Ok. Live and learn, Live and learn. Boat Designers and Engineers :smt013 Sorry I get so :smt013
 
Looks like a nice clean installation though, good job. I guess that's just one of the many trade-offs you make with this size boat. One (expensive) step up to the 260 and this is not an issue. Maybe a roller similar to the one at the end of the anchor chute, mounted just before the nav light, would give you enough clearance for the rode to travel over the light?
 
If you look at the extreme angle of the nose of the boat and the uneven small surface area to mount to, all rollers I looked at would not accomplish the job. To trade up to a 260 is what they want the answer to be. How ever their are many spin off problems when "I" go to a larger boat. ex. won't fit in my bldg. There are many options but what is waranteeable? Your right these are the trade offs you make when you buy a sea ray in this size class. My 23 ft and my 21 ft boats both had acceptable anchor rollers. I'll deal with it untill I don't want to then I'll find a boat that will do what I want it to do. This is my first attempt at a cruise style boat and I'm learning alot. I'll make a better decision in the future. Maybe it'll be sea ray, but I think I'm "FRAYED KNOT"
 
islandhopper, that looks good. My question is, (no warranty issue for me), is there a nav. light that can be mounted on top of the rail?
I thought I've seen one somewhere before. :smt017
Then you can add whatever anchor roller you want.
-Mike
 
islandhopper00 said:
If you look at the extreme angle of the nose of the boat and the uneven small surface area to mount to, all rollers I looked at would not accomplish the job.

I see what you mean when I look at the bow in profile. It's kind of a moot point anyway if you don't intend to leave the anchor out. Isn't that the reason for the anchor chute anyway? So you wouldn't have to constantly handle the anchor? I owned my 300DA for 5 years and never once touched the anchor, and we spent a lot of time on the hook.
 
hello hopper.
any pics of the bollard you were talking about? If not,let us know the size, brand and where you are getting this from. My dealer is able to order me the roller for the same price.

Thanks again and that is a nice install,Eddie
 
Hello eddie, I bought a bollard from Marine Trading Hardware on e-bay. I haven't recieved it yet. The company I bought it from is in Canada and it is apperantly in customs trying to get clearance to come into the country. I'm told it could be six weeks before I get it. :smt009 My luck. I found one on Boaters world web site and it is called a white cap mooring bit. mfr#s1320 Boaters world stock #327992277. price is $57.99. dimensions are 4 1/2" W x 3 3/4" L base, 2 3/8" dia. x 5" H, 7" cross piece.
When I get mine installed I'll snap some pictures. Just remember, I don't think you can store the anchor on the roller, unless you find a small anchor that will hold your boat.? I'll use mine for anchoring and providing a straight pull from the anchor in currents, hopefully that way the boat won't "sail" on the anchor. Good luck.
 
Hey guys, I don't own a 240 but I do own a 230 Sundancer and I've made a commitment to installing some sort of anchor roller that works. From studying new 240's and comparing them to my boat I do believe that we have very similar issues that can help each other as we brainstorm.

I just got back from Wastful Marine with a couple of their overpriced parts and would like your feedback since I think we're all in the same boat here, to coin a phrase.

I'm attaching a photo that I hope serves to clarify my plan. I found a lengthy bow/anchor roller that can be bolted onto the dropoff angle of my bow and hold an anchor. I have the same issues that you do; to run a rode/line above it blocks the one-piece green/red bow light.

The photo obviously shows a test-fit with no permanent attachments and is only an experiment at this point in time. My idea is to do this for real and then remove the green/red running light and put a pulley in its place, then route the anchor rope to another pulley going down into the hatch where a windlass/winch locked onto a firm backing controls the system. Then I'll simply buy a couple of singular green and red running lights to install on each side of the assembly.

Thoughts?
 

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That's exactly what I was thinking. It looks like it could work. My question is: I have 6-8 ft. of chain coming from the anchor. Will I be able to close the hatch w/ chain? It's hard to visual this because my boat is 30+ miles away in storage right now. :smt017
-Mike
 
I don't think so; at least if it's anything like mine. I'll have to cut into the hatch and totally make a custom setup to route it in there.

The concept of cutting an inlet into the hatch is easy in theory but to make it look stock/decent will be the hard part. I think I could do this no problem but I want it to look right once I'm finished.... the appearance is what I'm struggling with working out at this point in time. I know I'm gonna do it; I just gotta figure out the details.
 
The roller still looks to short to me. Is the anchor shaft wedging in against the rope guide? Sounds to me like you have a good idea and that is the direction I was headed untill...
So how do you plan to mount the windlass? My thought is/was to secure or bolt down the anchor locker hatch or replace it with a custom fitted 3/4" starboard one. Mount the windlass on top of the hatch so that the chain / rope will feed through the windlass into the anchor locker. Pulleys of some sort will need to be mounted so the rode does not drag accross the deck.
The hard part of all of this is making it all look as stock as possible. Nothing worse than looking at the eye sore on the bow every time you take the boat out. Whew, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and trade up to a 260. Man I don't want to do that.
 
The roller is fine and a good fit. The windlass is going to be the hard part; like you I want it to look good once I'm done.

My anchor hatch cover isn't even fiberglas like yours is; it's a cutout piece of lexan maybe 1/4" ~ 3/8" thick. I will have to replace that with a much thicker piece and do a lot of butressing and strengthening to make this work. My first thought was also to simply install the windlass on top of the hatch but then it occured to me that I'd have to do some severe rebuilding of the hatch cover or it would eventually rip loose under anchor loads.

Wasteful Marine has a small boat windlass that is more like a winch and it coils up the line in the unit like a winch instead of simply drawing it through. My current idea is to use that item or a similar winch in some way instead of using a windlass:

1) mount it on a highly-strengthened anchor hatch cover (which would necessitate figuring out how to strenghten the hatch cover enough to handle the stress);
2) since it holds the anchor line within itself (removing the need to worry about routing the line down into the hatch) I could simply install the winch on the foredeck beyond the hatch cover (but I don't know how that would look having a couple feet of anchor line running up the bow);
3) or I could make a very strong frame inside the hatch, mount the winch pointing up out of the hatch, and route the anchor line up through a hole in the hatch where a roller is mounted to run the line over the roller out to the anchor. The roller could be poking up through the hole in the hatch cover but still be firmly mounted onto the framework below so I wouldn't have to be so worried about how to strengthen the hatch cover.

By far, option two would be the easiest route to take but as crazy as it may sound the third idea is the one I'm seriously considering right now. The windlass/winch would not be visible, it could be built on a very strong frame, and the hole in the hatch cover could be fairly small and easily made to look like it belongs there.
 
Went to a local today and made an appointment to have snaps installed and that crap rubber tracking cut off. They gave me a price of $75. Well worth it to me. Boat is coming home in 2 weeks to get ready. Excitement is in the air. :smt038
-Mike
 
240DA owner here, just jumped onto this forum.

2001, 6.2L 320hp, BravoIII, shore power, vacuflush, blah blah blah.

Parking it up at Lake Powell after having it down here since I bought it used in August.

Carry on. :wink:
 

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